preMuir | E8/8a+ Multi-pitch on El Capitan

United States / California / Mariposa County
UKClimbing.com
33 pitches. Also known as Pre Muir. Free version of Muir Wall (A4). See also The Shaft.

Free version of the Muir Wall with some variations in line.

Contributors
duncancritchley
65 contributions since 12th July 2025.
remus
27 contributions since 30th October 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

7 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Rob Miller First ascent. With Justin Sjong. Lead | worked 2007
Justin Sjong First ascent. With Rob Miller. Lead | worked 2007

With Hazel Findlay, who also freed it, and Neil Dyer.

With James Mchaffie, who also freed it, and Neil Dyer.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQZMPpHDK-o/

[2] https://gripped.com/news/64748italians-free-35-pitch-5-13c-d-on-el-capitan/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQZMPpHDK-o/

Style note: I did a handful of day missions from the ground to check out the first couple of crux pitches and prehaul supplies before committing to a push. Once on the wall, I swapped leads with Brent for most of the route but led every crux pitch. I did use some preplaced gear in the stem corner and the final 13c. And finally, I took the no hands stance in the stem pitch as my first time ever ‘stancing’ a pitch because I did not have time to retry the entire thing in trying to work around both the sun/heat situation and an upcoming storm day. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRUx5SoDmJy/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRmyHxojL9W/