Burbage South

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Originally graded 'modern HVS' [1]

References

[1] Bancroft, S. 'Recent Developments', 1977

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 10 /library/11129/mountain-107

References

[1] Mountain Issue 123 (1988), page 19 /library/11309/mountain-123

John top roped the route within 40 minutes on his first visit, finding it similar in difficulty to Austrian Oak. He then spent another 12-15 sessions on the route. Believing the flake would not hold a fall, he was rescued on two lead attempts. All gear was placed on lead, with the rope to the runner in Brooks Crack dropped at the half way point to save weight. (2)

He graded the route HXS 7a, with others touting a grade of E10.

There was scepticism from some at the time that John had actually climbed the route, suggesting that the photographs were staged; this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

References

[1] John repeating the route on top rope for John Dunne - The Big Issue around 1996 https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=1448

[2] ‘Peak Rock’ p.276

A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news.

Peak Rock:

Myles soloed up to clip the first good pegs (worth about E7) then traversed right and jumped off before his successful ascent. With the first gear pre-clipped it was felt to be about F8b.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 25

The images of Neil working the route are from 1999.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/britains-first-gritstone-e10-is-strong-contender-for-hardest-trad-route-in-the-world.html

References

[1] On The Edge 116, page 67

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/10/french_kissing_in_burbage_quarries-9379

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/british-trad-extremes.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7dPa2MGqhE

Aged 15, first trip on the grit!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/japanese_junior_-_new_burbage_e9-48913

[2] https://youtu.be/ZueSwJia7PE?t=60

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

References

[1] https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

[4] Ben commenting on the style of his ascent, September 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

When it came to reclimbing it after the first flake broke I did as James [Pearson] says - climbed the original line up Brooks crack, trav left and up. I placed a higher side runner in Brooks, I can't remember exactly where but I think it was a body length or so higher than where you trav out. My thinking was it would keep me off the ground if I fell off the crux and the flake broke, but from higher would be less help. My excuses where that from big trad/adventure routes you often wiggle 'off route' by a couple of meters to place gear, I was a bit more of a wimp (wife, kid, dogs etc), and I found the route hard (I'm not as good as James, Jacopo [Larcher] etc). I placed gear in the flake on lead but then did fall off the crux. The fall was less pleasant with the side runner as it did pull me right a little into the arete below rather than just into space/against the flat wall, but it was a lot better than hitting the deck. I left the gear in for the next go, when I did manage it, so although pre placed on the ascent it was only the 3 or 4 pieces that I had placed and equalised as best I could on lead...

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BAkLGYdqisd/

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/peak-various-grit-lime-27-probs-6a-8a.25787/