A route with history. Originally climbed by John Dunne who thought the gear behind the flake wouldn't hold a fall. Seb Grieve eventually broke the spell 8 years after the first ascent by making the second ascent and taking some memorable falls in the process, with the route slowly gaining a reputation for being relatively safe. Seb's ascent was caught on film for Hard Grit with Niall Grimes memorably commenting
It held, that shipwreck of a flake actually held!
The route rapidly regained it's dangerous reputation when visiting Canadian Will Stanhope snapped the flake off while attempting the route ground up. Fortunately he escaped with just a broken ankle.
The route has been re-climbed by Ben Bransby at the very chunky grade of E10, featuring sport 8b climbing and significantly worse gear. James Pearson then improved further on the style by starting up Dynamics of Change, thus avoiding the use of side runners in Brooks Crack, and placing all gear on lead.
Originally the route was written up with the name 'Partheon Shot' but this was a mis-spelling and the current spelling is correct. The name is based on an old cavalry tactic where a horse archer would turn and fire a shot while retreating, a reference by John to some in the Sheffield scene at the time who were critical of him. See wikipedia for details.
5 recorded ascents.
Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Ben Bransby | Lead | worked | Nov 2013 | |
First ascent.
The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke. References[1] https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832 [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542 [3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0 [4] Ben commenting on the style of his ascent, September 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066
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Neil Mawson | Lead | worked | Apr 2014 | |
Siebe Vanhee | Lead | worked | 28th Oct 2021 | E9 |
Siebe pre-placed the gear in the flake for his ascent. References |
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Jacopo Larcher | Lead | worked | 7th Jul 2023 | |
James Pearson | Lead | worked | Aug 2023 | |
Notably James did not place a side runner in Brook's Crack and placed all the gear in the flake on lead. This is potentially the first ascent in this style since the flake broke. To facilitate this style, James started up the first few moves of Dynamics of Change so it would not be possible to place the runners in Brooks Crack. [2] References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwdIroBtUpX/= [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73439 |