Parthian Shot | E10 Trad climb at Burbage

UKClimbing.com
See also Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) and Nocturnal Emission.

A route with history. Originally climbed by John Dunne who thought the gear behind the flake wouldn't hold a fall. Seb Grieve eventually broke the spell 8 years after the first ascent by making the second ascent and taking some memorable falls in the process, with the route slowly gaining a reputation for being relatively safe. Seb's ascent was caught on film for Hard Grit with Niall Grimes memorably commenting

It held, that shipwreck of a flake actually held!

The route rapidly regained it's dangerous reputation when visiting Canadian Will Stanhope snapped the flake off while attempting the route ground up. Fortunately he escaped with just a broken ankle.

The route has been re-climbed by Ben Bransby at the very chunky grade of E10, featuring sport 8b climbing and significantly worse gear. James Pearson then improved further on the style by starting up Dynamics of Change, thus avoiding the use of side runners in Brooks Crack, and placing all gear on lead.

Originally the route was written up with the name 'Partheon Shot' but this was a mis-spelling and the current spelling is correct. The name is based on an old cavalry tactic where a horse archer would turn and fire a shot while retreating, a reference by John to some in the Sheffield scene at the time who were critical of him. See wikipedia for details.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Ben Bransby
Added at 16:01 on 03 January 2021
Siebe Vanhee
Added at 08:04 on 18 April 2022
Siebe Vanhee
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:11 on 13 November 2021
Jacopo Larcher
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 10 July 2023
Jacopo Larcher
Added at 19:03 on 22 March 2024
James Pearson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:08 on 28 August 2023
James Pearson
Added at 11:09 on 01 September 2023

Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ben Bransby Lead | worked Nov 2013
First ascent.

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

References

[1] https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

[4] Ben commenting on the style of his ascent, September 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

When it came to reclimbing it after the first flake broke I did as James [Pearson] says - climbed the original line up Brooks crack, trav left and up. I placed a higher side runner in Brooks, I can't remember exactly where but I think it was a body length or so higher than where you trav out. My thinking was it would keep me off the ground if I fell off the crux and the flake broke, but from higher would be less help. My excuses where that from big trad/adventure routes you often wiggle 'off route' by a couple of meters to place gear, I was a bit more of a wimp (wife, kid, dogs etc), and I found the route hard (I'm not as good as James, Jacopo [Larcher] etc). I placed gear in the flake on lead but then did fall off the crux. The fall was less pleasant with the side runner as it did pull me right a little into the arete below rather than just into space/against the flat wall, but it was a lot better than hitting the deck. I left the gear in for the next go, when I did manage it, so although pre placed on the ascent it was only the 3 or 4 pieces that I had placed and equalised as best I could on lead...
Neil Mawson Lead | worked Apr 2014
Siebe Vanhee Lead | worked 28th Oct 2021 E9

The upper part of this E9 6c is magical! A bit pumpy after the start up to the small RP’s placed in what remains of the broken flake. I used the side runner but honestly I trust the small pieces in the flake.

Siebe pre-placed the gear in the flake for his ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWN03_2DZ6D/

[2] https://youtu.be/OOCq9kOgF8I?t=1321
Jacopo Larcher Lead | worked 7th Jul 2023

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CufTYh_sbKB/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/07/jacopo_larcher_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73406

[3] https://youtu.be/fWJvC2pwVjg?t=790
James Pearson Lead | worked Aug 2023

Notably James did not place a side runner in Brook's Crack and placed all the gear in the flake on lead. This is potentially the first ascent in this style since the flake broke. To facilitate this style, James started up the first few moves of Dynamics of Change so it would not be possible to place the runners in Brooks Crack. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwdIroBtUpX/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73439

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jmQsLive7E