A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] Paul Mitchell then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before John Allen removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.
Sean Myles suggested E8 but after a repeat from Robin Barker around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from Tom Randall who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.
[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141
3 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| John Allen | Lead | did not finish | Before 7th May 1991 | |
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John removed the mortar from the line in an attempt to free it, though he was ultimately unsuccessful. Perhaps not surprising given the difficulty! References[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141 |
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| Sean Myles First ascent. Pre-placed gear. | Lead | worked | 8th May 1991 | E8 |
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A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news. Peak Rock:
References[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141 |
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| Robin Barker Second ascent. | Lead | worked | 1993-1994 | |
| Tom Randall Third ascent. | Lead | worked | 28th Feb 2014 | E9 |
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All gear placed on lead. References |
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