Despite being one of the most striking lines on grit and ‘the best 8b in the Peak’, according to second ascensionist Robin Barker [2], Captain Invincible has seen very few ascents. Masquerading as an E8, it was likely the hardest trad route in the UK in 1991.
The route takes an obvious line up the centre of The Cioch at Burbage South, with a run out start worth E7 in its own right, into a desperate peg-protected crux section.
Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] Paul Mitchell and John Allen then filled the scars with mortar to repair the damage before Allen had second thoughts and tried to remove the mortar in the hope of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.
Once the mortar was out, the race was on. A number of leading climbers tried the route, but only Sean Myles succeeded, working the route in 1990 and making the first ascent in 1991, grading it E8.
Robin Barker was in for a repeat a couple of years later, confirming the grade and finding it comparable to Transcendence – another complete sandbag at E8, which is now rated E9. Burning off Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu, who had also been trying the route, provided some motivation.
A decade passed, Hard Grit arrived and yet the repeats did not. By the noughties, Parthian Shot (Pre-2011 Break) (E9) had become a trade route, yet Captain Invincible – supposedly a grade easier – lived up to its name and proved impervious to ascents.
It took until 2014 for a third ascent from crack master Tom Randall, who, after considerable effort, confirmed the route to be ‘hard E9 7a or 8b/+’.
[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141
[2] Peak Rock, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013.
3 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Allen | Lead | did not finish | Before 7th May 1991 | ||
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John removed the mortar from the line in an attempt to free it, though he was ultimately unsuccessful. Perhaps not surprising given the difficulty! References[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141 |
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| Sean Myles | Lead | worked | 8th May 1991 | E8 | |
| First ascent. Pre-placed gear. | ||||
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A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news. Peak Rock:
References[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141 |
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| Robin Barker | Lead | worked | 1993-1994 | E8 | |
| Second ascent. | ||||
| Tom Randall | Lead | worked | 28th Feb 2014 | E9 (hard) | |
| Third ascent. | ||||
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All gear placed on lead.
References[2] https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/tag/captain-invincible/ |
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