Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) | E9 Trad climb at Burbage

UKClimbing.com

See also Parthian Shot and Nocturnal Emission.
🚫 This is currently unclimbable. Typically this is because the climb existed in some state but then changed significantly (e.g. by losing holds) and is now considered a different climb.
Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Tom Briggs
Added at 06:05 on 07 May 2024
Tom de Gay
Added at 17:01 on 11 January 2021

Ascents

10 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
John Dunne Lead | worked 19th Sep 1989
First ascent.

There was a lot of skepticism at the time that John had actually climbed the route but this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115413303248889

Seb Grieve Lead | worked 1st Apr 1997
Second ascent.
Kevin Jorgeson Lead | yo-yo 2008

References

[1] Ben Bransby adding some detail on the style of Kevin's ascent https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

Me and Pete Robins tried it ground up in the weeks before KJs [Kevin Jorgeson's] ascent. The first day we placed all the gear on lead but did fall off, and hence turn it into a yoyo style ascent (it was still really scary). Pete went home and I tried it a few more times (over the next 2 weeks). I abbed in (with eyes shut, honest, not that it matters!) and placed only the same gear in the flake for my subsequent visits. Obv this was pushing the boundaries of what might or might not count as ground up, but I was only doing it this way because that was how I wanted to try it, not to set any records. On my last visit I felt I had given it a good enough go in this style, fallen off a fair few times, so gave up. Kevin did join me on this session and had a few goes but didn't succeed. He didn't place any of the gear but used mine, which was essentially pre clipped and pre placed for him - like I say it was gear which had (kinda) been placed on lead, and not 10 perfect pieces placed from abb. He went back another day and did do the 'ground up' ascent - I think someone else abbed in for him and placed the gear, maybe more/better than what I had been using?

Tom Briggs Lead | worked 8th Oct 2008
Alex Honnold Lead | worked 16th Nov 2008
Toru Nakajima Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
Neil Bentley Lead | worked
Third ascent.

Impressively, Neil placed all the gear on lead.

Will Stanhope Lead | did not finish

Will's fall ripped the flake off and in the process landed him on the ground from very high on the route.

Tom de Gay Lead | did not finish
Nic Sellars Lead | worked