Chris Sharma


Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Age: 44 years old
Gender: Male
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8b
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Dave Graham
Daila Ojeda
Obe Carrion
Contemporaries
Tommy Caldwell
Dave Graham

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe (Golpe de Estado, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire and many more), as well as adding some of the hardest routes in America with climbs such as Jumbo Love and Dreamcatcher.

Somewhat uniquely amongst his contemporaries, Chris' climbing has been well documented from a young age due to a close relationship with videographers Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell.

Alongside his sport climbing Chris is a prolific deep water soloist, climbing many of the existing hard lines and then adding many of his own: Es Pontas, Alasha, Black Pearl, Big Fish and Vision Quest being some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

In 2023 he added Sleeping Lion (9b) in Siurana. Initially suggested at 9b+ it has settled at 9b after several repeats, but remains an impressive new addition at one of Spain's most famous crags.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Contributors
406 contributions since 13th January 2021.
17 contributions since 6th December 2023.
NHS
17 contributions since 16th January 2026.
TdG
11 contributions since 2nd September 2025.
9 contributions since 7th November 2025.
4 contributions since 21st September 2024.
TEV
2 contributions since 17th December 2025.
ben
2 contributions since 14th March 2025.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 23rd April 1981
Age: 44 years old
Gender: Male
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 75 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8c
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8b
Notable Partnerships
Tommy Caldwell
Dave Graham
Daila Ojeda
Obe Carrion
Contemporaries
Tommy Caldwell
Dave Graham

Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.

Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe (Golpe de Estado, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire and many more), as well as adding some of the hardest routes in America with climbs such as Jumbo Love and Dreamcatcher.

Somewhat uniquely amongst his contemporaries, Chris' climbing has been well documented from a young age due to a close relationship with videographers Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell.

Alongside his sport climbing Chris is a prolific deep water soloist, climbing many of the existing hard lines and then adding many of his own: Es Pontas, Alasha, Black Pearl, Big Fish and Vision Quest being some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.

In 2023 he added Sleeping Lion (9b) in Siurana. Initially suggested at 9b+ it has settled at 9b after several repeats, but remains an impressive new addition at one of Spain's most famous crags.

References

[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM

[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA

[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03

Contributors
406 contributions since 13th January 2021.
17 contributions since 6th December 2023.
NHS
17 contributions since 16th January 2026.
TdG
11 contributions since 2nd September 2025.
9 contributions since 7th November 2025.
4 contributions since 21st September 2024.
TEV
2 contributions since 17th December 2025.
ben
2 contributions since 14th March 2025.

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Ascents

91 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Harder than Perfecto Mundo.
Second ascent.

The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

[2] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

First ascent.

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

First ascent.
First ascent.

This whole time I’ve been trying to stay in shape, which has been a huge challenge. I never wanted to let go of my climbing goals. But as the years go by, you start to wonder, are things going to coalesce? Am I just saying that to myself, that I’m still in shape and ready?

...

In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5.15 in life, not just on the rock. So I have this higher-arching goal of climbing at my limit while also being present with my kids, and being present as a husband, and creating these climbing gyms and this TV show. All those other things are way out of my comfort zone, but that’s where a lot of growth and the progression of ourselves comes from.[3]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM

[3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/

[5] https://www.8a.nu/news/a-sleeping-lion-no-more-interview-with-chris-sharma-and-a-look-back-at-his-greatest-ascents-t27s3

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw

[7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion

[8] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8

[9] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX5hkFSM5JU

[10] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr34bD12AIg

First ascent.

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

It was my very first route [in Europe], actually. I went directly and warmed up on it...I didn't really warm up back then so it was fine. [5]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/26PaloSHg59Bbe6WdUWWok?

Third ascent.

The day after Eduard Marin made the second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

First ascent.
Papichulo 9a+ Lead | worked 31st May 2008
First ascent.
Demencia Senil 9a+ Lead | worked Feb 2009
First ascent.
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 29th May 2009
First ascent.
Power Inverter 9a+ Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
First ascent.
Catxasa 9a+ Lead | worked 2011
First ascent.

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

References

[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

I will never climb this route.

Chris dropped the last move on his flash attempt.

First ascent.
First ascent.
Samfaina 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 2010
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.
First ascent.

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlUDpmrP4O/?img_index=1

Fourth ascent. 3 sessions.

First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/BddU4Qln3au/

[3] On The Edge Issue 69, page 8

Second go.

A very impressive second-go effort. Chris had previously pulled up to the first bolt to check some holds but the decided to try something else, he then came back to it in 2008 and did it first go that day.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/purgatory_rrgpmrp-21440/lucifer-346990

Spicy Noodle 8c+ Lead | worked 2009
First ascent.
Second ascent.
First ascent?
First ascent. 3 sessions.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

First ascent.
First ascent.
The Big Smile 8c Lead | worked
First ascent. 1 session.
To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1998

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

Paying the Rent 8b+ Lead | worked Before 24th May 2012
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

Second go.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

Esplendor Geometrico 8a+ Deep Water Solo
First ascent.
Raindogs 8a Lead | onsight 2009
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.
Fourth ascent.
The Never Ending Story (Part 1+2) 8B+ Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked Aug 2004
First ascent.
Third ascent.
The Zone 8B+ (approx) Boulder | worked Before 31st Dec 2006
First ascent.
Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+ Boulder | worked 2nd Jan 2016
First ascent.
Goldfish Trombone 8B+ Boulder | worked

Chris came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the campus move to the slot.

Slashface 8B Boulder | worked 1999
Dominated 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2002
First ascent.
First ascent.
Impossible Traverse 8B Boulder | worked Before 1st Jan 2006
First ascent.
The Full Package 8B Boulder | worked Before 1st Jan 2006
First ascent.
First ascent.
The Mandala 8A+ Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.
The Buttermilker 8A+ Boulder | worked Before 25th Jan 2001
First ascent.

In June!

Captain Hook 8A+ Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Massive Attack 8A+ Boulder | flash 1st Jul 2003
No Pun Intended 8A+ Boulder | worked Before 1st Jan 2006
First ascent.
Sharma's Problem 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
The Egg 8A Boulder | worked 1999
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49

Evilution to the Lip 7C+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.
First ascent.
Alasha 9a Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2016
First ascent.
First ascent. Over 30 sessions.

More than 30 days of work over 6 months.

One of the best and hardest Psicobloc lines I've ever climbed.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDz9ac_Nefy/?hl=en

[2] https://www.8a.nu/news/vision-quest-9a-fa-by-chris-sharma-qy5mj

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zR_mmXjWU8

First ascent.
Honey Cane 8c Deep Water Solo | worked Before 1st Sep 2024
First ascent.
Ring of Fire 8b+ Deep Water Solo | ground up Sep 2004
Second ascent.
First ascent.
Face Your Fear 8b Deep Water Solo | worked Sep 2024
First ascent.