Chris Sharma

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The first confirmed 9b+.

Initially I was turned off by the small crimpers on the lower section, I sort of shied away from them. But last year Adam came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds. It may sound strange, but this route got me back into bouldering, that first section has a Font 8B+ section and it was great fun and also really different to try something with tiny crimps, instead of holds on the long stamina routes I often do. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYWqnv_NVck/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCqe96jtExU

On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4

[2] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Today in Santa Linya was one of those illusive moments. I sent a project that I’ve been trying the last few years. I think I’m going to call it Stoking The Fire and I think it’s pretty solid 9b. So many hard complex sequences with no rests!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/VZtjIfSd2Q/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

This whole time I’ve been trying to stay in shape, which has been a huge challenge. I never wanted to let go of my climbing goals. But as the years go by, you start to wonder, are things going to coalesce? Am I just saying that to myself, that I’m still in shape and ready?

...

In the lifespan of a climber, it’s really good to do other things. It complements your climbing, and it gives you a different perspective, and then it makes you appreciate climbing in new ways. … The ultimate goal is to be able to climb 5.15 in life, not just on the rock. So I have this higher-arching goal of climbing at my limit while also being present with my kids, and being present as a husband, and creating these climbing gyms and this TV show. All those other things are way out of my comfort zone, but that’s where a lot of growth and the progression of ourselves comes from.[3]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM

[3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/

[5] https://www.8a.nu/news/a-sleeping-lion-no-more-interview-with-chris-sharma-and-a-look-back-at-his-greatest-ascents-t27s3

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw

[7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion

[8] https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8

[9] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yX5hkFSM5JU

[10] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr34bD12AIg

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

It was my very first route [in Europe], actually. I went directly and warmed up on it...I didn't really warm up back then so it was fine. [5]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/26PaloSHg59Bbe6WdUWWok?

The day after Eduard Marin made the second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9agEFToJT-4

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbbvCuIyLoI

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDU89fQSK7C/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530

The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight!

References

[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/chris_sharma_does_joe_mama_9a+-70736

Chris dropped the last move on his flash attempt.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/UlcQ3mxlNfs

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-nBGhLMGPM

[2] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/gancho-perfecto-de-mr-sharma/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox82fjUpUGg

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Ox82fjUpUGg?t=366

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/chris_sharma_starts_the_autumn_season_with_two_9as-67529

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/ClwtjOqLupF/

Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlUDpmrP4O/?img_index=1

First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/BddU4Qln3au/

[3] On The Edge Issue 69, page 8

A very impressive second-go effort. Chris had previously pulled up to the first bolt to check some holds but the decided to try something else, he then came back to it in 2008 and did it first go that day.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/purgatory_rrgpmrp-21440/lucifer-346990

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cn8ERTaXOrw

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reels/CjoI2AzL7cU/

References

[1] https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/sport-why-kid-grinning/

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/mind-control-grade-confirmed-at-8c

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOvm3nrGhvQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-L2nqlCOM/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyy2YFwE8h4

References

[1] On The Edge 122, page 14.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwLxAx5vpLZ/?img_index=2

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis

[2] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CgANjR9DSR3/

References

[1] https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/chris-sharma-repite-dreamtime/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqL3qWgr6G3/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8PKnHNVJ0w

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/sharma-climbs-v14-makes-gq/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA-knGeu9bI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Up7tnTya0S4

In June!

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM8gO4IDN_s

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/COAgRrAK5ct/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzcGOI4vbPK/

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/chris-sharma-just-sent-his-hardest-deep-water-solo-to-date/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzerOobJSiT/

[4] https://woguclimbing.com/chris-sharma-primera-ascension-black-pearl-joya-del-psicobloc-mallorca/

[5] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz6xF3sLEtd/

[6] https://gripped.com/profiles/chris-sharma-what-it-took-to-climb-black-pearl/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEef_C541CM

More than 30 days of work over 6 months.

One of the best and hardest Psicobloc lines I've ever climbed.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDz9ac_Nefy/?hl=en

[2] https://www.8a.nu/news/vision-quest-9a-fa-by-chris-sharma-qy5mj

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-catches-his-big-fish-spectacular-and-difficult-new-deep-water-solo-at-mallorca.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vi5RGC-ZAOs

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-huge-pont-d-arc-deep-water-solo.html