Shikantaza | E9 (approx) Trad climb

First ascent.

The route is located on a big boulder at the base of Sergent; it starts following a sloper rail on a prow until a good flake, where you place some micro cams before setting off for the crux section. After a few moves you reach a good crimp, on which I decided to place a cliff as protection; the placement looks good, but the hold is a loose flake, which would probably break if you take a big fall. I tensioned (on lead) the hook with some cord to a lower cam to stop it from falling off accidentally. The next section involves some technical moves and small crimps and ends with some insecure moves to a big flake, where you can finally place some more gear before the easier top out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-adds-two-difficult-trad-climbs-to-valle-dell-orco-italy.html