Olwen | E9 Trad climb at Rhoscolyn

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr8vPofNmjA/=

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/jim_pope_headpoints_olwen_e9_6c_and_onsights_strawberries_e7_6b-73415

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cv-j9-lI7aj/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/caro_ciavaldini_climbs_olwen_e9_6c-73427

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF4jbLH-hoU

Second go.

James gave the route a good flash go after watching Caroline Ciavaldini working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).

I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/