Gogarth

United Kingdom / Wales / Holyhead
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Climbs

74 recorded climbs.

This timeline is missing some first ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Year Climb Grade Climber Style Date
1964 Gogarth E1 Baz Ingle Alternate Leads 4th Apr 1964
First ascent. With Martin Boysen.
Gogarth E1 Martin Boysen Alternate Leads 4th Apr 1964
First ascent. With Baz Ingle.
Pentathol HVS Baz Ingle Alternate Leads 24th Apr 1964
First ascent. With Pete Crew.
First ascent. With Baz Ingle.

I can remember going along that traverse, thinking, "God, we're going to die if we're not careful'; and then struggling on that first pitch of Pentathol, watching the tide coming in and wondering if we were going to drown. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 265 /library/7294/gogarth
Emulator E1 Pete Crew Lead 10th May 1964
First ascent.
1965
1966 The Big Groove E3 Dave Alcock Alternate Leads 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 1 point of aid.
The Big Groove E3 Pete Crew Alternate Leads 1966
First ascent. With Dave Alcock. 1 point of aid.
The Rat Race E3 Pete Crew Alternate Leads 1966
First ascent. With Joe Brown.
The Rat Race E3 Joe Brown Alternate Leads 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew.
Heroin E1 Pete Crew Alternate Leads 19th Mar 1966
First ascent.
Heroin E1 Jancis Allison Alternate Leads 19th Mar 1966
First ascent.
The Ramp HVS Jancis Allison Alternate Leads 24th Apr 1966
First ascent.
First ascent.

I looked at The Ramp for week after week, trying to work out whether it was a slab, or an overhanging wall with jugs. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 266 /library/7294/gogarth
Wen HVS Joe Brown Alternate Leads | onsight 8th May 1966
First ascent.
Wen HVS Martin Boysen Alternate Leads | onsight 8th May 1966
First ascent.
Winking Crack E3 Joe Brown Lead | onsight 5th Jun 1966
First ascent.
Dinosaur E5 Joe Brown Alternate Leads 19th Jun 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 10 points of aid.
Dinosaur E5 Pete Crew Alternate Leads 19th Jun 1966
First ascent. With Joe Brown. 10 points of aid.
Red Wall E2 Pete Crew Alternate Leads 2nd Sep 1966
First ascent. With Joe Brown.
First ascent. With Pete Crew.

Doing something like Red Wall you snapped some of the holds off. You could see that they weren't loose, they were just so thin and big that they snapped off like biscuits, and you very quickly got the hang of just smashing them off, so that what was left was thicker and stronger. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 268 /library/7294/gogarth
Mousetrap E2 Pete Crew Alternate Leads | worked 9th Oct 1966
First ascent. With Joe Brown. 2 points of aid.
Mousetrap E2 Joe Brown Alternate Leads | onsight 9th Oct 1966
First ascent. With Pete Crew. 2 points of aid.
First ascent.

Pete Crew recalls

It was one of the few times I had seen the old man in trouble. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth South (2015) by Simon Panton, page 320
The Sind E3 Pete Crew Alternate Leads | onsight 28th Oct 1966
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 51 /library/7218/new-climbs
1968 A Dream of White Horses HVS Dave Pearce Alternate Leads | onsight 18th-19th October 1968
First ascent. With Ed Drummond.
A Dream of White Horses HVS Ed Drummond Alternate Leads | onsight 18th-19th October 1968
First ascent. With Dave Pearce.
1969
1970
First ascent. With some points of aid.

References

[1] Mountain 15 (1971), page 10
The Moon E3 Ed Drummond Alternate Leads 17th Jun 1971
First ascent. 4 points of aid.
1972
1973
1974 The Moon E3 Steve Bancroft Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent. With John Allen. First free ascent.
First ascent. With Alec Sharp. First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 38 (1974), page 13 /library/11057/mountain-38
The Moon E3 John Allen Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft. First free ascent.
First ascent. With Brian Hall. First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 38 (1974), page 13 /library/11057/mountain-38
1975
1976
1977
1978 Citadel E5 Ron Fawcett Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.
First ascent.

Climbed the same weekend as The Cad
First ascent.

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).
First ascent. 3 points of aid.

With Mike Morrison.
The Flytrap E2 Joe Brown Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
The Flytrap E2 Philip Jewel Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
The Flytrap E2 Dave Cuthbertson Alternate Leads | onsight 16th Apr 1978
First ascent.
Hunger E5 Pat Littlejohn Alternate Leads 8th Jun 1978
First ascent.
1979
1980 Dinosaur E5 Ron Fawcett Lead | onsight 1980
First ascent. First free ascent.
The Big Sleep E6 Paul Williams Lead | worked May 1980
First ascent.
The Big Sleep E6 Ron Fawcett Lead | worked May 1980
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618
The Bells! The Bells! E7 John Redhead Lead | worked 30th Jun 1980
First ascent.
Barbarossa E6 John Redhead Lead | worked 6th Jul 1980
First ascent.
1981
1982 Death Trap E5 Mick Fowler Alternate Leads | worked 1982
First ascent.
1983
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4520398724692934
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373046486248
The Clown E7 John Redhead Lead | worked 25th Apr 1984
First ascent.
First ascent. First free ascent.

With Steve Andrews.
First ascent.

First all free ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gogarth_north_stack_and_main_cliff-598/mammoth-4286
Mammoth Direct E6 Andy Pollitt Lead | worked 26th May 1984
First ascent.
The Demons of Bosch E7 John Redhead Lead | worked 11th Jun 1984
First ascent.
1985
First ascent. With Johnny Dawes.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112
First ascent. With Ray Kay.

Paul Williams:

...the intrepid second, Ray Kay, in a hanging belay half-way up the top pitch of The Sind, apparently became a "born again" Christian. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 17 /library/11111/mountain-112
First ascent. With Paul Pritchard.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112
Flower of Evil E7 John Redhead Lead | worked May 1986
First ascent.
First ascent.

Second pitch.
First ascent.

First pitch.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290
Psycocandy E6 Craig Smith Lead | worked 17th Jul 1986
First ascent.
Conan the Librarian E7 Johnny Dawes Lead | ground up 21st Jul 1986
First ascent.
First ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802133010006&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802409676645&set=a.117799293010290
First ascent. With Ray Kay.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 17 /library/11111/mountain-112
First ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802753009944&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802933009926&set=a.117799293010290
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112
First ascent. Belayed by Johnny Dawes.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 17 /library/11111/mountain-112
Heart of Gold Direct E6 Trevor Hodgson Alternate Leads | onsight 12th Oct 1986
First ascent. With Paul Pritchard.
Heart of Gold Direct E6 Paul Pritchard Alternate Leads | onsight 12th Oct 1986
First ascent. With Trevor Hodgson.
The Super Calabrese E8 Paul Pritchard Lead | worked 16th October 1986-29th January 1987
First ascent.
1987 The Unrideable Donkey E7 Paul Pritchard Alternate Leads | ground up 12th Jul 1987
First ascent. With Nick Dixon.
1988 Death Trap Direct E6 Crispin Waddy Alternate Leads | worked 1988
First ascent.
First ascent. With Crispin Waddy.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 125 (1989), page 18 /library/11115/mountain-125
First ascent. With Grant Farquhar.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 125 (1989), page 18 /library/11115/mountain-125
First ascent. With Bob Drury. Harder than New Dawn.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 123 (1988), page 17 /library/11309/mountain-123
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 123 (1988), page 17 /library/11309/mountain-123
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 125 (1989), page 18 /library/11115/mountain-125
1989
First ascent. With Dave Towse.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 125 (1989), page 18 /library/11115/mountain-125
First ascent. 3 sessions.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 15
First ascent.

Steve attempted the line onsight but got scared and placed a peg while inspecting the line.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 14
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140702324053320/140703400719879
Rubble E7 Paul Pritchard Lead | onsight Oct 1991
First ascent.
Rubble E7 Leigh Mcginley Lead | onsight Oct 1991
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 15
Heinous Flytrap E7 Crispin Waddy Lead | worked 23rd Jul 1992
First ascent.
1993
1994
1995
1996
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 11
1998
1999
2000
2001
First ascent.

References

[1] Climber July 2002, page 19
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014 Smear Campaign E8 Alex Mason Lead | worked 1st Sep 2014
First ascent. With James McHaffie.
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRwGjwMFS5t/
First ascent.

On trying to find a partner for the line:

He [George Smith] kept giving me phone numbers of other climbers. Calum [Muskett] managed to bring in the excuse that he was becoming a Dad. However, I eventually managed to rope Zippy [Mark Pretty] into a trip down there. Fortunately for him, the swell was way too big and we couldn't even make it to the base of the first pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci8JBrcMzVt/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/09/massive_new_gogarth_e8_roof_crack_by_pete_whittaker_-_bar_wars-73154

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFDrzUL8srU
2023
2024
First ascent. With Tim Jepson.

Prospective repeaters may want to consider attempting a second ascent in a hybrid DWS/lead manner above a high spring tide. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DHnbYPPN6wy/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/new_routes_you_might_have_missed_2025_north_wales_round-up-16765
Climb Grade # Recorded Ascents Ascents Recorded Between
Neanderthal E9 1 1st March 2025 – 1st April 2025
The Hollow Man E8 6 2nd October 1986 – 29th July 2023
Extinction E8 4 1st January 1991 – 26th July 1993
Hardback Thesaurus E8 3 15th May 1988 – 1st January 2000
Satan's Scream E8 0
Bar Wars E8 1 1st September 2022 – 1st October 2022
The Super Calabrese E8 1 16th October 1986 – 29th January 1987
Vital Statistix E8 1
Smear Campaign E8 1 1st September 2014
The Bells! The Bells! E7 11 30th June 1980 – 24th April 2025
A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade E7 9 20th May 1988 – 6th June 2025
The Clown E7 5 25th April 1984 – 1st January 1991
The Enchanted Broccoli Garden E7 3 28th August 1986 – 1st January 2000
Rubble E7 2 1st October 1991 – 1st November 1991
Stroke of the Fiend E7 2 28th May 1986
Flower of Evil E7 2 1st May 1986 – 29th March 1991
Conan the Librarian E7 2 21st July 1986
Isis is Angry E7 2 1st January 1986 – 1st January 1991
The Tesseract E7 2 1st July 2021 – 1st August 2021
The 4th Dimension E7 2
Come to Mother E7 2 1st January 1986 – 1st January 1987
Heinous Flytrap E7 1 23rd July 1992
The Demons of Bosch E7 1 11th June 1984
Ultraviolet Exterminator E7 1 1st January 2002 – 1st January 2003
The Unrideable Donkey E7 1 12th July 1987
The Angle Man E7 1 1st January 1990
The Cad E6 14 1st January 1978 – 6th September 2024
The Big Sleep E6 3 1st May 1980 – 7th March 1982
Wall of Fossils E6 2 1st May 1980 – 1st June 1980
Ludwig E6 2 8th April 1978 – 10th May 1984
Free Stone Henge E6 2 1st August 1986 – 23rd April 2017
Eraserhead E6 2 1st January 1988 – 1st January 1989
Heart of Gold Direct E6 2 12th October 1986
Blackleg E6 1 1st January 1978 – 1st January 1979
Bar Fly E6 1 1st June 1991 – 1st July 1991
Live at the Witch Trials E6 1 1st September 1988 – 1st October 1988
Death Trap Direct E6 1 1st January 1988 – 1st January 1989
Skinhead Moonstomp E6 1 12th April 1984
Mammoth Direct E6 1 26th May 1984
Ramalina E6 1 15th September 1991
Barbarossa E6 1 6th July 1980
Psycocandy E6 1 17th July 1986
Schittlegrüber E6 1 16th August 1986
Positron E5 6 1st March 1971 – 1st January 1990
Dinosaur E5 3 19th June 1966 – 1st January 1981
Who Dares Whinge E5 1 1st January 1997 – 1st January 1998
Hunger E5 1 8th June 1978
Heart of Gold E5 0
Spider's Web E5 1 1st January 1992
Death Trap E5 1 1st January 1982 – 1st January 1983
Mammoth E5 1 20th May 1984
Citadel E5 1 1st January 1978 – 1st January 1979
Graduation Ceremony E4 1 9th April 2025
Blue Peter E4 0
The Moon E3 5 17th June 1971 – 1st January 1975
The Sind E3 2 28th October 1966
T-Rex E3 2 1st January 1980 – 1st January 1990
The Big Groove E3 2 1st January 1966 – 1st January 1967
The Rat Race E3 2 1st January 1966 – 1st January 1967
Winking Crack E3 1 5th June 1966
The Flytrap E2 3 16th April 1978
Mousetrap E2 2 9th October 1966
Red Wall E2 2 2nd September 1966
The Strand E2 1 1st October 1967
Spider's Web E2 0
Genuflex E2 0
Gogarth E1 2 4th April 1964
Heroin E1 2 19th March 1966
Emulator E1 1 10th May 1964
The Ramp HVS 2 24th April 1966
Wen HVS 2 8th May 1966
A Dream of White Horses HVS 2 18th October 1968 – 19th October 1968
Pentathol HVS 2 24th April 1964
Britomartis HVS 0