Dinosaur | E5 Trad climb at Gogarth

United Kingdom / Wales / Holyhead

The name comes from the long neck and small brain you'll need to climb the route (as Brown said of Crew)!

Ken Wilson, writing in Mountain Craft (summer 1967):

On the 19th June, 1966, Joe Brown and Pete Crew climbed together for the first time and probably the strongest team ever to set foot on rock in this country made a bid to crack this "last great problem." They started early but they encountered such difficulty that both climbers were driven back several times. Late afternoon they were established on a stance in the middle of the wall. The cliff at this point was appallingly loose and it seemed as if they were hanging from tottering blocks all the time. All the lose material they pulled off was dropping into the sea 20 feet out from the base of the climb. They eventually finished at 9.30 p.m. The technical difficulty was high and the danger from loose rock was so considerable Dinosaur, as they called the climb, must stand out as one of the most formidable expeditions in Wales. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 268 /library/7294/gogarth

Contributors
duncancritchley
25 contributions since 11th July 2025.
remus
17 contributions since 8th August 2021.

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Ascents

3 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Joe Brown First ascent. With Pete Crew. 10 points of aid. Alternate Leads 19th Jun 1966
Pete Crew First ascent. With Joe Brown. 10 points of aid. Alternate Leads 19th Jun 1966
Ron Fawcett First ascent. First free ascent. Lead | onsight 1980