Nationality: | GB |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8a+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E7 |
Features in E96c and Clown Ascending.
On E96c:
It was from my warehouse home here that my involvement with E9 6c was filmed and recorded. This happened within the last few weeks of my departure from this special perch. John Mortimer’s son, Jeremy, produced an excellent piece for Radio Three called, ‘Between the Ears’. Dominic Clemence produced and directed the film for BBC2. This was the attempted story of The Indian Face, a fierce route on the cathedral of rock, Clogwyn Du Arddu, on the flank of Snowdon. I liked the bit where I am sat under my climbing wall in the studio flippantly explaining the image I painted on the scar where the flake had been. This small granite flake had come away in my arms whilst testing the peg that had been smashed into its side. I drew a quick sketch on the wall of ‘the hunt‘, something that had stayed with me from viewing the Lascaux Caves in France. Only two people had seen it. Paul Williams had photographed it and Johnny Dawes had scraped it off (or rather, an acolyte had scraped it off). One had died and the other had seemingly gone mad! [1]
[1] http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/sacred-ground.html
31 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
1980 | The Sexual Salami | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 15th March 1980 |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618 |
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Bananas | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 30th March 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299333260286 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
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The Wrinkled Retainer | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 3rd April 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
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The Bells! The Bells! | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 30th June 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863326537220&set=a.115862679870618 |
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Barbarossa | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 6th July 1980 | |
First free ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618 |
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1981 | ||||
1982 | The Burning Sphincter | 7b (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 |
Originally an E5 trad route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425 |
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The Tormented Ejaculation | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618 [2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618 [3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, Nick Dixon |
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The Big Sleep | E6 (Lead) | 7th March 1982 | ||
Second ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115864596537093&set=a.115862679870618 |
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Fingerlicker Direct | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 29th May 1982 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300946593458 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864739870412&set=a.115862679870618 |
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A Midsummer Night's Dream | E6 (Lead) | 30th May 1982 | ||
Second ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864769870409&set=a.115862679870618 |
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The Dillusioned Screw Machine | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 27th July 1982 | |
With 1pt of aid. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740 |
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1983 | ||||
1984 | Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137 |
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Poetry Pink | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477 |
||||
Cystitis by Proxy | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373849819501 |
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Margins of the Mind | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137 |
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Bell-Dance | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 19th March 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116372806486272 |
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The Clown | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 25th April 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373046486248 |
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Fishbox | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 2nd May 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373123152907 |
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The Demons of Bosch | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 11th June 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373656486187 |
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Raped by Affection | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | July 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373986486154 |
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1985 | ||||
1986 | Stiff Syd's Cap | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | April 1986 |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799586343594&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Released from Treatment | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 26th April 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800109676875&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Flower of Evil | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | May 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Stroke of the Fiend | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 28th May 1986 | |
Second pitch. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Dawes of Perception | E7 (Lead) | June 1986 | ||
Second ascent.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Menopausal Discharge | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | June 1986 | |
John graded the route E7. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Authentic Desire | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | August 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802873009932&set=a.117799293010290 |
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1987 | The Rite of Spring | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1987 |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997603123792 |
||||
1988 | ||||
1989 | ||||
1990 | ||||
1991 | Shaft of a Dead Man | E7 (Lead Unknown) | ✓ | 1991 |
References[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 188. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. |
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1992 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Menopausal Discharge | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | June 1986 | |
John graded the route E7. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290 |
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Manic Strain | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | ||
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799956343557&set=a.117799293010290 |
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The Burning Sphincter | 7b (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
Originally an E5 trad route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Indian Face | E9 (Lead Did not finish) | |||
John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it The Tormented Ejaculation. John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off. |
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The Bells! The Bells! | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 30th June 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863326537220&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Tormented Ejaculation | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618 [2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618 [3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, Nick Dixon |
||||
Margins of the Mind | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137 |
||||
The Clown | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 25th April 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373046486248 |
||||
The Demons of Bosch | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 11th June 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373656486187 |
||||
Raped by Affection | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | July 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373986486154 |
||||
Flower of Evil | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | May 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
Stroke of the Fiend | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 28th May 1986 | |
Second pitch. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
Authentic Desire | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | August 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802873009932&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
The Rite of Spring | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1987 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997603123792 |
||||
Shaft of a Dead Man | E7 (Lead Unknown) | ✓ | 1991 | |
References[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 188. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. |
||||
Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | 1984 | ||
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137 |
||||
Dawes of Perception | E7 (Lead) | June 1986 | ||
Second ascent.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
Barbarossa | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 6th July 1980 | |
First free ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Fingerlicker Direct | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 29th May 1982 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300946593458 https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864739870412&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Dillusioned Screw Machine | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 27th July 1982 | |
With 1pt of aid. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740 |
||||
Stiff Syd's Cap | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | April 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799586343594&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
Released from Treatment | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 26th April 1986 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800109676875&set=a.117799293010290 |
||||
The Big Sleep | E6 (Lead) | 7th March 1982 | ||
Second ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115864596537093&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
A Midsummer Night's Dream | E6 (Lead) | 30th May 1982 | ||
Second ascent. https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864769870409&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Sexual Salami | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 15th March 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Bananas | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 30th March 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299333260286 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Wrinkled Retainer | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 3rd April 1980 | |
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Poetry Pink | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477 |
||||
Cystitis by Proxy | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373849819501 |
||||
Bell-Dance | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 19th March 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116372806486272 |
||||
Fishbox | E5 (Lead) | ✓ | 2nd May 1984 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373123152907 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|