John Redhead


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7

Features in E96c and Clown Ascending.

On E96c:

It was from my warehouse home here that my involvement with E9 6c was filmed and recorded. This happened within the last few weeks of my departure from this special perch. John Mortimer’s son, Jeremy, produced an excellent piece for Radio Three called, ‘Between the Ears’. Dominic Clemence produced and directed the film for BBC2. This was the attempted story of The Indian Face, a fierce route on the cathedral of rock, Clogwyn Du Arddu, on the flank of Snowdon. I liked the bit where I am sat under my climbing wall in the studio flippantly explaining the image I painted on the scar where the flake had been. This small granite flake had come away in my arms whilst testing the peg that had been smashed into its side. I drew a quick sketch on the wall of ‘the hunt‘, something that had stayed with me from viewing the Lascaux Caves in France. Only two people had seen it. Paul Williams had photographed it and Johnny Dawes had scraped it off (or rather, an acolyte had scraped it off). One had died and the other had seemingly gone mad! [1]

[1] http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/sacred-ground.html

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7

Features in E96c and Clown Ascending.

On E96c:

It was from my warehouse home here that my involvement with E9 6c was filmed and recorded. This happened within the last few weeks of my departure from this special perch. John Mortimer’s son, Jeremy, produced an excellent piece for Radio Three called, ‘Between the Ears’. Dominic Clemence produced and directed the film for BBC2. This was the attempted story of The Indian Face, a fierce route on the cathedral of rock, Clogwyn Du Arddu, on the flank of Snowdon. I liked the bit where I am sat under my climbing wall in the studio flippantly explaining the image I painted on the scar where the flake had been. This small granite flake had come away in my arms whilst testing the peg that had been smashed into its side. I drew a quick sketch on the wall of ‘the hunt‘, something that had stayed with me from viewing the Lascaux Caves in France. Only two people had seen it. Paul Williams had photographed it and Johnny Dawes had scraped it off (or rather, an acolyte had scraped it off). One had died and the other had seemingly gone mad! [1]

[1] http://footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/sacred-ground.html


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
Manic Strain (8a, FA)
Added at 09:04 on 11 April 2021
Indian Face (E9)
Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
© Paul Williams
Authentic Desire (E7, FA)
Added at 15:04 on 28 April 2021
Released from Treatment (E6, FA)
Added at 22:04 on 11 April 2021
Fingerlicker Direct (E6, FA)
Added at 17:03 on 20 March 2021
Bananas (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
The Wrinkled Retainer (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
The Sexual Salami (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Barbarossa (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
The Bells! The Bells! (E7, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Stroke of the Fiend (E7, FA)
Added at 22:04 on 11 April 2021
The Big Sleep (E6)
Added at 17:03 on 20 March 2021
A Midsummer Night's Dream (E6)
Added at 17:03 on 20 March 2021
Flower of Evil (E7, FA)
Added at 22:04 on 11 April 2021
Dawes of Perception (E7)
Added at 08:04 on 19 April 2021
Menopausal Discharge (8a+, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 19 April 2021
Stiff Syd's Cap (E6, FA)
Added at 09:04 on 11 April 2021

Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1980 The Sexual Salami E5 (Lead) 15th March 1980

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618

Bananas E5 (Lead) 30th March 1980

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299333260286

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

The Wrinkled Retainer E5 (Lead) 3rd April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

The Bells! The Bells! E7 (Lead) 30th June 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863326537220&set=a.115862679870618

Barbarossa E6 (Lead) 6th July 1980

First free ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

1981
1982 The Burning Sphincter 7b (Lead) 1982

Originally an E5 trad route.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994606457425

The Tormented Ejaculation E7 (Lead) 1982

...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618

[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, Nick Dixon

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) 7th March 1982

Second ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115864596537093&set=a.115862679870618

Fingerlicker Direct E6 (Lead) 29th May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300946593458

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864739870412&set=a.115862679870618

A Midsummer Night's Dream E6 (Lead) 30th May 1982

Second ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864769870409&set=a.115862679870618

The Dillusioned Screw Machine E6 (Lead) 27th July 1982

With 1pt of aid.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740

1983
1984 Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 1984

Margins is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137

Poetry Pink E5 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477

Cystitis by Proxy E5 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373849819501

Margins of the Mind E7 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137

Bell-Dance E5 (Lead) 19th March 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116372806486272

The Clown E7 (Lead) 25th April 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373046486248

Fishbox E5 (Lead) 2nd May 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373123152907

The Demons of Bosch E7 (Lead) 11th June 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373656486187

Raped by Affection E7 (Lead) July 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373986486154

1985
1986 Stiff Syd's Cap E6 (Lead) April 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799586343594&set=a.117799293010290

Released from Treatment E6 (Lead) 26th April 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800109676875&set=a.117799293010290

Flower of Evil E7 (Lead) May 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290

Stroke of the Fiend E7 (Lead) 28th May 1986

Second pitch.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290

Dawes of Perception E7 (Lead) June 1986

Second ascent.

A few holds have snapped making the moves up to the bolt more tricky and the moves after the bolt less tricky. A tricky, gripping problem.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290

Menopausal Discharge 8a+ (Lead) June 1986

John graded the route E7.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290

Authentic Desire E7 (Lead) August 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802873009932&set=a.117799293010290

1987 The Rite of Spring E7 (Lead) 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997603123792

1988
1989
1990
1991 Shaft of a Dead Man E7 (Lead Unknown) 1991

I had just recovered from a paralysing virus, no doubt self-induced, as most viruses are, which hospitalized me for several days. The births of four paintings (titled The Shaft of a Dead Man) were no doubt the product of this alternative head space. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 188. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

1992
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Indian Face E9 (Lead Did not finish)

John put in a solid ground up effort before taking a big fall. He then put in a bolt at his high point and named it The Tormented Ejaculation.

John pulled a flake off the route after Johnny Dawes had made the first ascent, he then painted a piece on the rock scar. This angered Johnny who then scraped the painting off.

The Bells! The Bells! E7 (Lead) 30th June 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863326537220&set=a.115862679870618

The Tormented Ejaculation E7 (Lead) 1982

...my own attempts from 1980 have been well wagged about. I call them The Tormented Ejaculation - not just mere climbing, but an expression of the flesh and blood of my work, the poetry of rock-movement inextricably bound up with the network of shape and colour. A last look at the line and a strange impulse took hold of me. I went for it. At 70ft I woke up. Ghastly! The aggression was dissipated and the fear gripped me. I had climbed with no protection and was now eyeballing a tiny shallow crack. I remembered it from the abseil and it had looked pathetic. It was real now. I contemplated jumping on the scree below before the situation got out of control. I fell a million times, my arms unfolding, my breath fading. A no. 1 stopper came to a halt, half-way down this crack, half in, rocking - my weight was on it...the mental preparation was becoming harder and harder. The so-called psyching up, a pain beyond reason. Out of the accquaintance grew more and more fear. Gone the initial naivety that had sparked off this terrifying enterprise. I knew the score and was unnerved by it...I distinctly felt a tiny slide on a friction move lower down and became very insecure, with my feet in canyon boots. I got to the little crack another 20 feet up and was dangerously pumped because of the extra strain on my fingers. The resin was wearing off the boots. I managed to place an RP1, clipped in, and was about to place a No 2 when my right foot shot off.The strain came on the RP, ripped it through, and I cartwheeled a long way down the wall. [3]

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115865133203706&set=a.115862679870618

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115865649870321&set=a.115862679870618

[3] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Climbers' Club Guides) 2004, Nick Dixon

Margins of the Mind E7 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137

The Clown E7 (Lead) 25th April 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373046486248

The Demons of Bosch E7 (Lead) 11th June 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373656486187

Raped by Affection E7 (Lead) July 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373986486154

Flower of Evil E7 (Lead) May 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290

Stroke of the Fiend E7 (Lead) 28th May 1986

Second pitch.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800759676810&set=a.117799293010290

Authentic Desire E7 (Lead) August 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802873009932&set=a.117799293010290

The Rite of Spring E7 (Lead) 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997603123792

Shaft of a Dead Man E7 (Lead Unknown) 1991

I had just recovered from a paralysing virus, no doubt self-induced, as most viruses are, which hospitalized me for several days. The births of four paintings (titled The Shaft of a Dead Man) were no doubt the product of this alternative head space. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 188. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 1984

Margins is more strenuous and technical but Master's is a much harder lead. The crux and substance of the route done in 1980 by myself.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374156486137

Dawes of Perception E7 (Lead) June 1986

Second ascent.

A few holds have snapped making the moves up to the bolt more tricky and the moves after the bolt less tricky. A tricky, gripping problem.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117801186343434&set=a.117799293010290

Barbarossa E6 (Lead) 6th July 1980

First free ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

Fingerlicker Direct E6 (Lead) 29th May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300946593458

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864739870412&set=a.115862679870618

The Dillusioned Screw Machine E6 (Lead) 27th July 1982

With 1pt of aid.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994789790740

Stiff Syd's Cap E6 (Lead) April 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799586343594&set=a.117799293010290

Released from Treatment E6 (Lead) 26th April 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117800109676875&set=a.117799293010290

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) 7th March 1982

Second ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115864596537093&set=a.115862679870618

A Midsummer Night's Dream E6 (Lead) 30th May 1982

Second ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=115864769870409&set=a.115862679870618

The Sexual Salami E5 (Lead) 15th March 1980

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299136593639

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863236537229&set=a.115862679870618

Bananas E5 (Lead) 30th March 1980

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115299333260286

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

The Wrinkled Retainer E5 (Lead) 3rd April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Poetry Pink E5 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116374089819477

Cystitis by Proxy E5 (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373849819501

Bell-Dance E5 (Lead) 19th March 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116372806486272

Fishbox E5 (Lead) 2nd May 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373123152907

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade