The Enchanted Broccoli Garden | E7 Trad climb at Gogarth

United Kingdom / Wales / Holyhead

Contributors
TdG
15 contributions since 9th September 2025.
8 contributions since 28th April 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

3 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. With Mike Thomas.

I remember climbing the talcum-powder slab without any meaningful protection, focusing on a bloated spider seemingly at home on this vast wall. And there was a gull mimicking the sound of a jet plane, I recall.

Eventually, I arrived at the peg and clipped it with a screamer - a loosely stitched-together quickdraw designed to rip under load, thereby lessening the shock to the system. I equalised it with an RP3 and hung on it.

When I brought Mike up, he was less than happy to see the belay I had created.

The guidebook described it as "a contender for the worst belay on Gogarth."

It really felt like a big deal at the time - and we lived to share more climbs together.

I call it extreme humouring: what Mike did that day, risking his life to indulge a mate's dangerous fantasy. [2]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DcmTPdUEwQl/?img_index=5

John Arran Lead | onsight 1996