Pat Littlejohn


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings
Richard Broomhead
Keith Darbyshire

Legendary British trad. climber and mountaineer with a legacy of many high quality first ascents particularly in SW England and N Wales.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/culm_dancing_-_a_second_wave_1968-73-13381

[2] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Contributors
192 contributions since 12th March 2021.
TdG
18 contributions since 19th August 2025.
2 contributions since 12th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings
Richard Broomhead
Keith Darbyshire

Legendary British trad. climber and mountaineer with a legacy of many high quality first ascents particularly in SW England and N Wales.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/culm_dancing_-_a_second_wave_1968-73-13381

[2] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Contributors
192 contributions since 12th March 2021.
TdG
18 contributions since 19th August 2025.
2 contributions since 12th July 2025.

Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
Sort
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Terminal Twilight E7 Lead | worked 28th Apr 1984
First ascent.

Climbed without chalk. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Above and Beyond E6 Lead 1984
First ascent.
The White Hotel E6 Lead | worked 6th May 1984
First ascent.

Using chalk for the first time, hence the name.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Guernica E6 Alternate Leads | worked 1987
First ascent.

P. Littlejohn, H, Clarke (1pt) 1982; FFA P. Littlejohn 1987

Lazarus E6 Lead | worked 20th May 1988
First ascent.
War and Peace E6 Alternate Leads | onsight 22nd Apr 1997
First ascent. With Steve Sustad.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 8

Liberator E5 Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 1970
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.
Il Duce E5 Alternate Leads 23rd Apr 1972
First ascent. With Keith Darbyshire. 1 point of aid.

References

[1] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 Lead 25th Apr 1972
First ascent. 5 points of aid.

While this action departs from the purest traditions of a first ascent, in this case I believe it to have been in the best interests of the climb. No one could be gladder than I to emerge from the dark'n bad lower walls to a finish touched by the last rays of the sun. [1]

References

[1] Hope, D., Wilkinson, B. (2000). North Devon and Cornwall. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. Page 326.

[2] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

Hunger E5 Alternate Leads 8th Jun 1978
First ascent.
Barbarella E5 Lead 30th Apr 1980
First ascent.
Head Hunter E5 Lead 31st Mar 1984
First ascent.
Darkness at Noon E5 Alternate Leads | onsight 15th Apr 1984
First ascent. With Tony Penning.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Nighteen Eighty-four E5 Lead 22nd Apr 1984
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Eroica E4 Lead | worked 1972
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

America E4 Alternate Leads | onsight 1973
First ascent. With Keith Darbyshire.
Melpomene E4 Lead 1978
First ascent.
The Axe E4 Lead | worked 6th Jul 1979
Pan E4 Lead 22nd Apr 1984
First ascent. With Tony Penning.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Fay E4 Lead 16th May 1986
First ascent.
Silent Spring E4 Lead
First ascent.
Dreadnought E3 Alternate Leads 1969
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.

Some aid used.

The Promised Land E3 Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent.

1 pt. aid.

Dreadnought E3 Alternate Leads | worked 1977
First ascent.

First free ascent.

Desolation Row E2 Alternate Leads 14th Sep 1969
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.
Sacre Coeur E2 Lead 1974
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 36, page 12 /library/11055/mountain-36

Seventh Dread E1 Alternate Leads 5th Apr 1969
First ascent. With Frank Cannings and Peter Biven.
Oesophagus E1 Lead
Moonraker HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 6th Aug 1967
First ascent. With Peter Biven.

Aged just 16!

But Moonraker was in a different league, bigger and more committing than anything I’d done before, and on such an awe-inspiring cliff! Pete [Biven] soon referred to it as a route of ‘national importance’ and began repeating it with well-known climbers like Ian Howell, Rustie Baillie, John Cleare and Al Alvarez. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Barn Owl Crack VD Lead Before 1st Jan 1966

Pat's very first route!

I was with my childhood friend Jeff Jones, both of us 14 years old. We had an 80-foot hemp rope nicked from Exeter Flower Show, one piton which we’d bought from Grays of Exeter, and a hammer from my Dad’s toolbox. We just tried what seemed to be the easiest way up the cliff. Half way up we managed to hammer in the piton. We had to untie to thread the rope through the eye of the piton. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1