Pat Littlejohn


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings
Richard Broomhead
Keith Darbyshire

Contributors
29 contributions since 12th March 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Gender: Male
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Notable Partnerships
Frank Cannings
Richard Broomhead
Keith Darbyshire

Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

22 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Terminal Twilight E7 Lead | worked 28th Apr 1984
First ascent.

Climbed without chalk.

Above and Beyond E6 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Lazarus E6 Lead | worked 20th May 1988
First ascent.
War and Peace E6 Alternate Leads | onsight 22nd Apr 1997
First ascent. With Steve Sustad.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 8

Liberator E5 Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 1970
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.
Il Duce E5 Alternate Leads 23rd Apr 1972
First ascent. With Keith Darbyshire. 1 point of aid.
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 Lead 25th Apr 1972
First ascent. 5 points of aid.

While this action departs from the purest traditions of a first ascent, in this case I believe it to have been in the best interests of the climb. No one could be gladder than I to emerge from the dark'n bad lower walls to a finish touched by the last rays of the sun. [1]

References

[1] Hope, D., Wilkinson, B. (2000). North Devon and Cornwall. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. Page 326.

Hunger E5 Alternate Leads 8th Jun 1978
First ascent.
Barbarella E5 Lead 30th Apr 1980
First ascent.
The Axe E4 Lead | worked 6th Jul 1979
Fay E4 Lead 16th May 1986
First ascent.
Silent Spring E4 Lead
First ascent.
Eroica E4 Lead | worked
First ascent.
Dreadnought E3 Alternate Leads 1969
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.

Some aid used.

The Promised Land E3 Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent.

1 pt. aid.

Dreadnought E3 Alternate Leads | worked 1977
First ascent.

First free ascent.

Desolation Row E2 Alternate Leads 14th Sep 1969
First ascent. With Frank Cannings.
Seventh Dread E1 Alternate Leads 5th Apr 1969
First ascent. With Peter Biven and Frank Cannings.
Oesophagus E1 Lead
Moonraker HVS Alternate Leads | onsight 6th Aug 1967
First ascent. With Peter Biven.

Aged just 16!

But Moonraker was in a different league, bigger and more committing than anything I’d done before, and on such an awe-inspiring cliff! Pete [Biven] soon referred to it as a route of ‘national importance’ and began repeating it with well-known climbers like Ian Howell, Rustie Baillie, John Cleare and Al Alvarez. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Barn Owl Crack VD Lead Before 1st Jan 1966

Pat's very first route!

I was with my childhood friend Jeff Jones, both of us 14 years old. We had an 80-foot hemp rope nicked from Exeter Flower Show, one piton which we’d bought from Grays of Exeter, and a hammer from my Dad’s toolbox. We just tried what seemed to be the easiest way up the cliff. Half way up we managed to hammer in the piton. We had to untie to thread the rope through the eye of the piton. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1