Pat Littlejohn

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Climbed without chalk. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Using chalk for the first time, hence the name.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

P. Littlejohn, H, Clarke (1pt) 1982; FFA P. Littlejohn 1987

Pat climbed the route without clipping the bolts which were then chopped after his ascent.

References

[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 8

References

[1] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

While this action departs from the purest traditions of a first ascent, in this case I believe it to have been in the best interests of the climb. No one could be gladder than I to emerge from the dark'n bad lower walls to a finish touched by the last rays of the sun. [1]

References

[1] Hope, D., Wilkinson, B. (2000). North Devon and Cornwall. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club. Page 326.

[2] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

With one peg for aid on the first pitch and two on the second.

References

[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 18 /library/11131/mountain-109

The bolt on The Cullinan was removed before the auccessful ascent.

References

[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.

References

[1] Mountain 23 (1972), page 7 /library/9627/mountain-23

Climbed onsight via a sea-level traverse which considerably increases the commitment of the ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863033203916&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101

Some aid used.

The slab, black, greasy, and apparently blank, miraculously provides a series of incut holds, , but still the huge overhang seems to crush any hope of a free solution. Once under the roof, however, one continues in sheer unbelief. [2]

References

[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.

[2] Mountain Issue 37, /library/11056/mountain-37

First free ascent.

References

[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.

References

[1] Mountain 36, page 12 /library/11055/mountain-36

Pat's first XS.

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Aged just 16!

But Moonraker was in a different league, bigger and more committing than anything I’d done before, and on such an awe-inspiring cliff! Pete [Biven] soon referred to it as a route of ‘national importance’ and began repeating it with well-known climbers like Ian Howell, Rustie Baillie, John Cleare and Al Alvarez. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

Pat's very first route!

I was with my childhood friend Jeff Jones, both of us 14 years old. We had an 80-foot hemp rope nicked from Exeter Flower Show, one piton which we’d bought from Grays of Exeter, and a hammer from my Dad’s toolbox. We just tried what seemed to be the easiest way up the cliff. Half way up we managed to hammer in the piton. We had to untie to thread the rope through the eye of the piton. [1]

References

[1] https://www.alpin-ism.com/knowledge-base/news/pat-littlejohn-interview-1

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199604700/Tawoche

[2] https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/8/taweches-northeast-pillar/

[3] Alpine Journal 1996 68-76 Fowler Taweche