The Screaming Dream | 8A/E7 Boulder problem at Froggatt Edge


Highball.

Originally climbed as a trad route at ~E7.

First ascentionist Mark Leach stated there was a pebble that he didn't want to stand on in case it broke, so he used a really hard sequence. Then he stood on it and did the route first time. Ben Moon used the pebble too. It's not clear if the pebble still exists.

Although originally a trad route, it's a contender for the first 8A in the UK, climbed a few months before Careless Torque.

Contributors
remus
52 contributions since 27th January 2021.
TdG
28 contributions since 22nd May 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Mark Leach Lead | worked Nov 1986 E8
First ascent. 25 sessions.

Entry in Stoney New Routes book:

The Screaming Dream. E8 7B (B3)

Free climbs the problem Knowns as "The Crack".

"If you've got what it takes it will take all you've got."

Duration of ascent 25 seperate occassions [sic] spread over 9 months.

Hang Loose,

Mark Leach

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=391047

Sean Myles Lead | worked 1990
Second ascent.
Ben Moon Lead | worked 1990
Third ascent. Second go.

One fall from the easy lower section.

Ben Bransby Lead | worked 17th Jan 2012
Fourth go.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35875749

Michele Caminati Boulder | worked Mar 2012
Tom Newman Boulder | worked 26th Oct 2015
Issac Buckley Boulder | worked 7th Mar 2023
Alex Moore Boulder | worked 21st Nov 2024

Managed to skirt around the difficult climbing on this one

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCwm4MNKRfL/

Aidan Roberts Boulder | ground up