Kilnsey

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References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

[2] Mountain Issue 125 (1989), page 18 /library/11115/mountain-125

References

[1] Mountain Issue 123 (1988), page 19 /library/11309/mountain-123

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 14 /library/11314/mountain-129

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 14 /library/11314/mountain-129

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 12 /library/11313/mountain-128

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 12 /library/11313/mountain-128

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

[2] Mountain Issue 131 (1990), page 16 /library/11316/mountain-131

Potentially 1990, or Mountain magazine were a bit late in their reporting of the ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 12 /library/11313/mountain-128

References

[1] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

Some years prior to making the first ascent Dave resorted to removing the hangers and smearing vaseline on the top holds to fend off any attempts by a visiting frenchman!

Martin Berzins, commenting in 1991:

The route remains unclimbed, and and neither Pegg nor Tribout comes out of the affair with honour.

While Tribout should perhaps have respected Pegg's attempts, it is also the case that the term ‘project' has grown to mean (though not in this case), "a route I've bolted up and will probably only be able to do in two years time." The farcical situation has been reached of people who are able to do the first ascent jumping off just below the lower off point so that the person who bolted the route can eventually claim the first ascent! Perhaps the truth is that no one owns a piece of rock and what is not owned cannot be stolen. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 15 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

Jerry nearly made the first ascent in 2 days but fell off the top roof due to not knowing the sequence well enough. Jerry initially suggested 8c+ but revised this to 8c after Nic Sellars made a fast repeat of Jerry's route Evolution at Raven Tor and downgraded it to 8c:

The only grade I got wrong [in 1995] was Progress at Kilnsey. When I first worked the route I thought definitely not 8c+. I spoke to three others who had all been on the route who all thought it probably 8c+. In the end I gave it 8c+ thinking that perhaps I was climbing better than I thought. The bummer was that I was originally right about the 8c grade and wrong to think I was climbing so great. [2]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33869.msg697764.html#msg697764

[2] On The Edge Issue 53, page 48.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 8

Steve cemented himself as the top sport climber in the UK, taking over from Moon and Moffatt and leading sport climbing in the UK in to a new era.

Notably, Steve used a different sequence from what Ben Moon was trying with the original line. Steve's sequence loops out slightly where Ben was trying to go very direct.

The route took more out of me than any other and tested more than my climbing ability - mentally it was draining and took over my whole life. I think it had to for me to get up it. For a better climber the route could fall quite quickly, especially without the pressure of it being a first ascent. The moves are totally sustained but never desperate, I'm sure the future of hard climbing is in this style - super sustained thing. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 11

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2006/08/steve_mcclure_and_karin_magog_add_routes_to_kilnsey-27893

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVu7StN1qjo

[2] Climb Issue 42, page 30

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4m55m6MfgxQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COnZ92XjA0p/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DYLLuzZtCaF/