Lucid Dreaming | 8C Boulder problem at Buttermilks

Originally given 8C+ but later a downgrade to 8C was suggested by the FA.

Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

Daniel Woods


4 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date
Paul Robinson Boulder (Worked) 30 Mar 2010

Paul originally suggested 8C+, feeling it was a grade harder than Terremer, but later revised this to 8C.

Alex Megos Boulder (Worked) 27 Jan 2015
Jimmy Webb Boulder (Worked) 08 Oct 2020 (approx)
Matt Birch Boulder (Did not finish)

Matt was apparently fairly close to doing it before Paul Robinson made the first ascent.,10607.msg306870.html#msg306870