Lucid Dreaming | 8C Boulder problem at Buttermilks

Originally given 8C+ but later a downgrade to 8C was suggested by the FA.

Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

Daniel Woods


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Daniel Woods
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Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2021
Daniel Woods
Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2021
Toru Nakajima
Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2021

Ascents

6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Paul Robinson Boulder (Worked) 30th March 2010 8C

Paul originally suggested 8C+, feeling it was a grade harder than Terremer, but later revised this to 8C.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lucid-dreaming-new-extreme-boulder-problem-at-the-buttermilks-bishop.html

Daniel Woods Boulder (Worked) 28th January 2014 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/jvNPENyrjX/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDZZhEHBaEA

Alex Megos Boulder (Worked) 27th January 2015

Third ascent.

Toru Nakajima Boulder (Worked) 20th February 2017 (approx)

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

Jimmy Webb Boulder (Worked) 8th October 2020 (approx)
Matt Birch Boulder (Did not finish)

Matt was apparently fairly close to doing it before Paul Robinson made the first ascent.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg306870.html#msg306870