Achemine | E9 Trad climb at Dumbarton Rock

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent.

I tried the line intermittently through the last spring, but failed to link it all on top rope. I finally linked it this September, following a return to sport climbing and bouldering after the summer's tradding. I had just done the second ascent of Digital Quartz and I found linking my project harder than this. I went on the lead the following week and took a 50-60 footer from the last 6c move. This set the pattern for the next three tortuous weeks! I got the train down to Dumbarton [Rock] every other day and took 60 footers one after the other, 11 times in total. The route is the most conditions dependent route I've ever done, as the holds are very small and smooth and I couldn't chalk up at all on the 10m headwall.

I finally did it in cold, windy weather on 9th October. The fall is on to good gear, but still scary, not just because of it's length, but because of the violent slam in to the rock. Every fall was painful and bruising for my hands and feet and on some of my worst falls I sprained my ankles and wrist. One time my foot caught in the rope and sent me plummeting head first, which was terrifying! [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 11

Second ascent?

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/achemine_e9_6c_by_barbara_zangerl-70435

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugS2YRV0PLs

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et2ro8ZpV_I

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CcNRrcSjEfZ/

An impressive ascent given Sam's hardest sport climb was an 8a (compared to ~8b to top rope Achemine). He also took a bad fall on Achemine in 2023 and broke his wrist. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg699600.html#msg699600

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/significant-repeats.10607/post-713222