Achemine | E9 Trad climb at Dumbarton Rock

See also Chemin de Fer.

The first E9 in Scotland.

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Dave MacLeod
Added at 12:02 on 03 February 2024
Dave MacLeod
Added at 12:02 on 03 February 2024
Robbie Phillips
Added at 22:01 on 03 January 2021
Mathew Wright
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:04 on 11 April 2022


6 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Dave MacLeod Lead | worked 9th Oct 2001
First ascent.

I tried the line intermittently through the last spring, but failed to link it all on top rope. I finally linked it this September, following a return to sport climbing and bouldering after the summer's tradding. I had just done the second ascent of Digital Quartz and I found linking my project harder than this. I went on the lead the following week and took a 50-60 footer from the last 6c move. This set the pattern for the next three tortuous weeks! I got the train down to Dumbarton [Rock] every other day and took 60 footers one after the other, 11 times in total. The route is the most conditions dependent route I've ever done, as the holds are very small and smooth and I couldn't chalk up at all on the 10m headwall.

I finally did it in cold, windy weather on 9th October. The fall is on to good gear, but still scary, not just because of it's length, but because of the violent slam in to the rock. Every fall was painful and bruising for my hands and feet and on some of my worst falls I sprained my ankles and wrist. One time my foot caught in the rope and sent me plummeting head first, which was terrifying! [2]



[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 11

Barbara Zangerl Lead | worked May 2016
Robbie Phillips Lead | worked 2020
Niall McNair Lead | worked Nov 2021
Mathew Wright Lead | worked 10th Apr 2022
Rob Sutton Lead | worked 3rd Mar 2023