Bellavista pushed multi-pitch climbing in the Dolomites to new levels of difficulty via some wildly overhanging territory. The route tackles the enormous roofs of Cime Ovest overhanging some 60m over its 283m length. Lead protection comes primarily from pegs and some trad gear. Alexander Huber spent 5 weeks working the route prior to making the first ascent, describing it as “by far the wildest route on an alpine face”. [2]
In 2014 Huber suggested that holds on the crux pitch were better than when he made the first ascent:
... the crux pitch was heavily manipulated. There are many crystallized fossils in the dolomite rock of Tre Cime and if you work hard, you can break out many of these. Then remains a pocket or hole which looks basically natural. But for cleaning a toothbrush is definitely not enough: you need hammer and chisel. In the former crux traverse in the middle of the pitch you had to crimp thin edges where you find now big pockets, some of more than 10 centimeters in diameter. The character is heavily changed even though it remains to be a great and fantastic climb. The grading is somewhere in between 8b and 8b+. [1]
[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/bellavista-chipped-from-8c-to-8b-+
7 successful ascents recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alexander Huber | Lead | worked | 18th Jul 2001 | 8c | |
| First ascent. | ||||
| Helmut Kotter | Alternate Leads | worked | 11th Jun 2010 | 8b/8b+ | |
|
With Wolfgang Widder. References[1] https://www.climbon.de/Artikel/artikel_0004.htm [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/07/great_double_for_kotter-56509 |
||||
| Sasha DiGiulian | Alternate Leads | worked | 13th Aug 2013 | ||
| With Eduard Marin. | ||||
References |
||||
| Eduard Marin | Alternate Leads | worked | 13th Aug 2013 | ||
| With Sasha DiGiulian. | ||||
| Dave MacLeod | Alternate Leads | worked | Sep 2013 | ||
| With Alan Cassidy. | ||||
|
Dave took the crux pitch. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365 |
||||
| Robbie Phillips | Lead | worked | Aug 2014 | 8b/8b+ | |
| With Logan Barber. | ||||
References |
||||
| Barbara Zangerl | Lead | worked | 5th Jul 2015 | 8b+ | |
| With Christian Winklmair. | ||||
|
Thinking it was just another working day they started climbing at 10am. After making unexpectedly good progress they reached the junction with the Cassin Route (E5) at 7pm and decided to continue to the top, finally reaching the summit at 2am, the car at 5am and then driving 4 hours back to Austria for work! [1] References |
||||