Dave MacLeod

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• Pics and vids by Dave MacLeod

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz73lqhL8Ro

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/11/dave_macleod_-_a_muerte_f9a-41388

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXJCkVv0uAc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSyLSxug1xI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY

[2] https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/echo-wall-2008

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GOW2iwgPdI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXJCkVv0uAc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMjQnqH8rFs

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C5v6ldgIbo6/

[2] Footage of a working go shortly before the first ascent https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4vIRQrLZcS/?hl=en

[3] Footage of a working go shortly before the first ascent https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4xYub6LE3g/?hl=en

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRv2UHW9Vmg

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7cSJ0g3kNo

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/163236472

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

References

[1] https://youtube.com/watch?v=rFr7sxoci2o

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/149216716

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

[2] https://vimeo.com/145013170

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/160221796

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxnP4TuIQzt/=

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/04/23_lockdown_round-up_-_ascents_from_around_the_world-72740

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkozHa9DBuH/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CluPC8-DEwC/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClpEl_NDjrV/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0Wt2dgIio7/

[2] To Hell and Back 2007 film

Claire Macleod:

I could see he was looking over at me, just before the unprotected section. I didn't know if something was wrong, it scared me to think of what he wanted to say to me. It was really hard to keep filming the crux.

Dave:

I need to have no thoughts in my head at all but I couldn't help myself looking over to Claire filming. I felt I only just had enough strength left for the crux but I knew I could fall as well. I could accept that risk but it felt really hard to be sure at that moment with Claire there to see the outcome. [2]

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjnyVzUIpsl/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4IODTqo8Oh/

[5] SMCJ Number 200 – Vol 40 - 2009

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

Dave took the crux pitch.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cy0JF7dob95/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDEJEOjA4IE

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bElfeCKrRvY

I tried the line intermittently through the last spring, but failed to link it all on top rope. I finally linked it this September, following a return to sport climbing and bouldering after the summer's tradding. I had just done the second ascent of Digital Quartz and I found linking my project harder than this. I went on the lead the following week and took a 50-60 footer from the last 6c move. This set the pattern for the next three tortuous weeks! I got the train down to Dumbarton [Rock] every other day and took 60 footers one after the other, 11 times in total. The route is the most conditions dependent route I've ever done, as the holds are very small and smooth and I couldn't chalk up at all on the 10m headwall.

I finally did it in cold, windy weather on 9th October. The fall is on to good gear, but still scary, not just because of it's length, but because of the violent slam in to the rock. Every fall was painful and bruising for my hands and feet and on some of my worst falls I sprained my ankles and wrist. One time my foot caught in the rope and sent me plummeting head first, which was terrifying! [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 11

Scotland's second E9.

Pulled so hard on the crux undercut that I tore a pulley, thankfully only noticing on the easier final section. A serious route. I would not like to test the fall onto those ledges. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck8tb95JjWd/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_croe-593/the_fugue-128642

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Coo03jQrdNJ/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpe7bnNI7HP/

[2] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?t=762

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?si=DwJ-gvXruxEz_6Ne&t=1387

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmG1QLxorSM/

[2] http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/present-tense.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

Dave led the harder pitches with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeURVXC5ntg

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_nVmKVlFUY

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuYSzxMaBZ8

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJY-QZVf0Hw

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYrUIR4hHyo

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

[2] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/10/muy-caliente.html

First free ascent.

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html

On the grade:

I don't know if/when it was ever officially downgraded. But I think it is E8. Safe 8a. [4]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/173051918

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0G0tmaIrtL/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CiZtXRODxCT/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CikzhSnDiaV/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAh40hzqSAc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-lHtaMiSGg

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0OfvplIT2L/

Dave snapped a pebble and broke his ankle while going for a headpoint ascent.

I was headpointing an E8, which would have been my first E8. I'd just top roped it cleanly and then I went for the lead, which in this case was actually a solo, and I was just standing up through the crux move and I was thinking "I'm gonna do this, I feel really solid" and the crux pebble that I was pushing down on snapped off and I decked out, broke my ankle quite badly... [1]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/MDEJEOjA4IE?si=1tSGg_K6PDU8idM7&t=302

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0MG8sLIFpn/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/femme_fatale_e8_6c_for_ferdia_earle-771020?v=1#x9915130

[2] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 13

Ben [Bransby] watched me top rope it and fiddle in the RP (pumpy). I climbed back down to have a breather before leading it and Ben asked if he could tie in to my rope and climb up to check out the RP. He did, but kept going and flashed the route, brilliant effort (despite the pre-placed gear and queue jumping). So my ascent was the third. The route is definitely over-graded and is E7. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 103, page 10

Dave tried climbing the route onsight but was ultimately unsuccessful, reversing from his high point as he felt the gear wasn't good enough.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu9vcIsIbUU/

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

References

[1] https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/echo-wall-2008

[2] SMCJ Number 200 – Vol 40 - 2009

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmHQg5TIh23/

[2] http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48026

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009/06/cubbys-arete-went-down.html

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-great-arch-pabbay-finally-free.html

Dave had a nasty accident prior to making the first ascent:

I started up a new E8 but broke a hold and decked out, breaking my leg. I set off to hobble off the hill using my poles so I could avoid a rescue. Masa went to the top of the crag to retrieve my rope, but fell at the top of the V-diff route we used for descent and dropped the height of the cliff, bouncing down the gully, landing on the rucksack full of ropes each time. He was very bashed up but not broken. At the loch below I waited for him in the dark, fearing the worst, but unable to walk back up and look for him. Finally, he appeared out of the dark and rain, looking like he’d been in the trenches. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DGxcJpRPKEx/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5HoTilgTJ4

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=be_k6K5cAI4

Dave's first new route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] SMCJ Number 193 - Vol 38 - 2002

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd5ICoWjxWP/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3JuLbLZ3wc