Dave MacLeod

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References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz73lqhL8Ro

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/11/dave_macleod_-_a_muerte_f9a-41388

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXJCkVv0uAc

Dave used a shin pad underneath a knee pad to make a kneebar work.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSyLSxug1xI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvJOCJh1vpY

[2] https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/echo-wall-2008

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GOW2iwgPdI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXJCkVv0uAc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jYhw7RI3nE

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRDjKZeV-JA

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2012/05/mystic-stylez.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/05/dave_macleod_-_practice_of_the_wild_8c-70484

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBH9ZGYKuLo

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMjQnqH8rFs

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/03/dave_macleod_completes_lithium_f8b+-71007

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YtcA7Ovx00

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZY_MqZKCi5/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iefYvlkq86U

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C5v6ldgIbo6/

[2] Footage of a working go shortly before the first ascent https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4vIRQrLZcS/?hl=en

[3] Footage of a working go shortly before the first ascent https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4xYub6LE3g/?hl=en

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRv2UHW9Vmg

[5] https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Ms2mHMxYy08

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/163236472

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7cSJ0g3kNo

Perhaps the prime example of Dave's attritional approach, however, was his ascent of Pressure (8b) in 2005, taking a line through the desperate, horizontal terrain of the black cave of the Eagle Boulder - the apex of an epic siege across 100 days and four years. Deemed impossible by many strong boulderers, Dave invoked the spirit of Andy Dufresne in the film The Shawshank Redemption to understand that all it takes, really, is pressure and time. [1]

[1] The Climber's Complete Guide to Dumbarton Rock, J. S. Watson and John Hutchinson, 2020

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZTdF3ftQik

References

[1] https://youtube.com/watch?v=rFr7sxoci2o

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/149216716

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/two_magic_wood_8bs_in_one_night_for_dave_macleod-70072

[2] https://vimeo.com/145013170

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/160221796

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-1Zw_EV76s

https://www.instagram.com/p/CxnP4TuIQzt/=

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/04/23_lockdown_round-up_-_ascents_from_around_the_world-72740

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CkozHa9DBuH/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CluPC8-DEwC/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClpEl_NDjrV/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xn8SaTntzG8

Claire Macleod:

I could see he was looking over at me, just before the unprotected section. I didn't know if something was wrong, it scared me to think of what he wanted to say to me. It was really hard to keep filming the crux.

Dave:

I need to have no thoughts in my head at all but I couldn't help myself looking over to Claire filming. I felt I only just had enough strength left for the crux but I knew I could fall as well. I could accept that risk but it felt really hard to be sure at that moment with Claire there to see the outcome. [2]

On the grade:

Do you see my problem? I am uncomfortable with the feeling of grades advancing too quickly due to overgrading, but on the other hand feel that Echo Wall might well earn a laughable quanta of E points over anything else I’ve done, based on the way the E scale has been used traditionally over the past couple of decades. I just don’t know. [1]

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2008/10/grade-of-echo-wall.html

[2] https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CjnyVzUIpsl/

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4IODTqo8Oh/

[5] SMCJ Number 200 – Vol 40 - 2009

Dave suggested it was easier than his route Mind Riot which he gave E10. [3]

References

[1] https://www.davemacleod.com/blog/lexicon

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbyDeR3KQlo/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/03/lexicon_e11_7a_repeated_by_dave_macleod-73022

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0Wt2dgIio7/

[2] To Hell and Back 2007 film

I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/11/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/dave_macleod_-die_by_the_drop-_e10-409

Dave took the crux pitch.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/09/bellavista_for_macleod_and_cassidy-68365

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox7iU5DjQ9U

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZVFGxyCejo

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cy0JF7dob95/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDEJEOjA4IE

I tried the line intermittently through the last spring, but failed to link it all on top rope. I finally linked it this September, following a return to sport climbing and bouldering after the summer's tradding. I had just done the second ascent of Digital Quartz and I found linking my project harder than this. I went on the lead the following week and took a 50-60 footer from the last 6c move. This set the pattern for the next three tortuous weeks! I got the train down to Dumbarton [Rock] every other day and took 60 footers one after the other, 11 times in total. The route is the most conditions dependent route I've ever done, as the holds are very small and smooth and I couldn't chalk up at all on the 10m headwall.

I finally did it in cold, windy weather on 9th October. The fall is on to good gear, but still scary, not just because of it's length, but because of the violent slam in to the rock. Every fall was painful and bruising for my hands and feet and on some of my worst falls I sprained my ankles and wrist. One time my foot caught in the rope and sent me plummeting head first, which was terrifying! [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/10/scotland_gets_first_e9-1452

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 11

Scotland's second E9.

Pulled so hard on the crux undercut that I tore a pulley, thankfully only noticing on the easier final section. A serious route. I would not like to test the fall onto those ledges. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck8tb95JjWd/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glen_croe-593/the_fugue-128642

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y80e0S98Tk

[2] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Coo03jQrdNJ/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpe7bnNI7HP/

[2] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?t=762

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8oUqIqlfz/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?si=DwJ-gvXruxEz_6Ne&t=1387

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/01/dave_macleods_tendon_therapy_the_walk_of_life-45540

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPUeQFtjYO0

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmG1QLxorSM/

[2] http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/present-tense.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/06/dave_macleod_repeats_indian_face-56039

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ7oYTRdj5I

Dave led the harder pitches with Tim Emmett leading some of the easier pitches.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeURVXC5ntg

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_nVmKVlFUY

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuYSzxMaBZ8

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJY-QZVf0Hw

[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYrUIR4hHyo

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg278951.html#msg278951

[2] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/10/muy-caliente.html

First free ascent.

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/06/longhope-direct.html

On the grade:

I don't know if/when it was ever officially downgraded. But I think it is E8. Safe 8a. [4]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/173051918

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/dave_macleod_repeats_return_of_the_king_e9_6c-70548

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2016/06/return-of-king.html?m=1

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0G0tmaIrtL/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CiZtXRODxCT/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DOHH_dziJ9L/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIurTukUOpU

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CikzhSnDiaV/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAh40hzqSAc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-lHtaMiSGg

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0OfvplIT2L/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0MG8sLIFpn/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/femme_fatale_e8_6c_for_ferdia_earle-771020?v=1#x9915130

[2] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 13

Ben [Bransby] watched me top rope it and fiddle in the RP (pumpy). I climbed back down to have a breather before leading it and Ben asked if he could tie in to my rope and climb up to check out the RP. He did, but kept going and flashed the route, brilliant effort (despite the pre-placed gear and queue jumping). So my ascent was the third. The route is definitely over-graded and is E7. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 103, page 10

Dave believed his ascent to be the first ascent, later learning of John Dunne's claim.

The route would be three distinct pitches. Pitch two would almost certainly form the meat of the difficulties, but the top pitch might also be tricky, with a few options for where you could go. After abseiling to a big ledge at the top of the main pitch, I re-rigged the rope and continued down. As soon as I was over the lip, I was surprised to find that the whole line was not only obvious but very well chalked. I had enough experience to know that the route had seen attention from someone who really knew what they were doing. Each hold had been carefully cleaned, and every single foot smear had been marked with a tiny dab of chalk. I'd seen that done here and there on boulder problems before, but never for every foothold on a 45-metre mountain pitch like this. […]

On the way back up the rope, I also tried the top pitch. Unlike the one below, it had no chalk, and some of the holds were covered in thick, tough lichen. I spent about four hours scrubbing the whole wall with a wire brush to make the moves possible for me. It was clear this pitch was only a grade or so easier than the one below.

Back home in Glasgow, I made an assumption. Even if the main pitch had been done, whoever had done it had gone a different way for the top pitch since that was still dirty. Most likely, they would have taken the path of least resistance, escaping left after the big ledge. A month passed and I heard nothing in the climbing media or on the grapevine about the route having been done, so I resolved to get on the line I had cleaned. Regardless of whether the main pitch had been climbed or not, the headwall would add distinction and a lot of difficulty to the overall route. […]

Given that tense first meeting with John [Dunne] at Kendal, I was dismayed to learn that the route on Arran was his. After some confusion, I heard John had indeed climbed the exact same line as me, including the final pitch. I doubted this could be correct, since it was so dirty and the main pitch so thoroughly cleaned. But John rang me and asked me to describe in detail where I went, and he told me that was what he had done. He said the top pitch had been dirty, but he had just climbed through it. […] John called the climb The Great Escape. Had the first ascent been mine, I would have called it Macrochiera, after the giant spider crab, since the wall resembled the shape of the crab, with the flake of the crux pitch forming the left pincer. The right pincer is a much harder line and remains unclimbed to this day.

References

[1] Dave MacLeod, 'Moving the Needle', Rare Breed Productions, 2024

Originally E7, but "Going back and doing it again I realised it's actually harder than Divided Years."

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2006/09/glen-nevis-misadventures.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu9vcIsIbUU/

After cleaning the line on abseil, Dave led the route without taking any falls but downclimbed from the crux several times while working up courage to commit to the crux move on the lip of a roof.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dave_macleod_the_modern_traditionalist__e11-198

The day after Dave's ascent of Caution.

References

[1] https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/echo-wall-2008

[2] SMCJ Number 200 – Vol 40 - 2009

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmHQg5TIh23/

[2] http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48026

[3] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009/06/cubbys-arete-went-down.html

References

[1] https://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-great-arch-pabbay-finally-free.html

Dave had a nasty accident prior to making the first ascent:

I started up a new E8 but broke a hold and decked out, breaking my leg. I set off to hobble off the hill using my poles so I could avoid a rescue. Masa went to the top of the crag to retrieve my rope, but fell at the top of the V-diff route we used for descent and dropped the height of the cliff, bouncing down the gully, landing on the rucksack full of ropes each time. He was very bashed up but not broken. At the loch below I waited for him in the dark, fearing the worst, but unable to walk back up and look for him. Finally, he appeared out of the dark and rain, looking like he’d been in the trenches. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DGxcJpRPKEx/

Iain Small, Dave MacLeod (both led).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=be_k6K5cAI4

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5HoTilgTJ4

Dave's first new route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pLGGafxVbQ

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] SMCJ Number 193 - Vol 38 - 2002

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPO2cttb8Wk

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWSnVPbIcGd/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd5ICoWjxWP/

P1 (6a): Dan Honneyman, onsight. P2 (6b): Dave MacLeod, after abseil inspection.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CuO05RnI7qZ/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3JuLbLZ3wc

No pads

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cln_WscqpFP/?img_index=1