Careless Torque | 8A Boulder problem at Stanage

United Kingdom / England / Hope Valley
UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu
Highball.
Contributors
remus
90 contributions since 24th December 2023.
TdG
73 contributions since 14th August 2025.
Mattsparksy
12 contributions since 28th April 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

22 successful ascents and 2 unsuccessful attempts recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

After solving the start, Ron tried the upper moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

Starting on its right-hand side, I got my feet on a jutting block under the boulder's lip and threw my left hand up onto the blunt edge of the arête. For my right hand there was a sloper, and using this I'd get whatever I could - knee, toe, whatever - onto the arête and then go again with my left hand. It was a desperate move and it took weeks before I could do it, trying it again and again each time I went up to Stanage. This kind of behaviour was unprecedented for me. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[2] Ron Fawcett, Ed Douglas, ‘Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2011

References

[1] Email exchange, September 2023

[2] On The Edge, issue 114

With just one thin early bouldering mat.

I tried it a lot, but the fall was big, really big, so we came back with a rope, and then I did the top part with a rope, and it was just the most wonderful problem. But I said now I must do the whole problem, so we left the rope from the top with a big knot so I could clip it once I had climbed the crux. I did it the second try and clipped my rope, and fell on the last move... I thought "Wow, lucky you, you had a rope!”, so I never did the problem according to me. Even if I had done it that day with the rope I still wouldn't have done it. It's such an experience to do this boulder without a rope. [2]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

[2] ‘Peak Rock’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Ivan got through the crux on his third attempt but didn't quite manage to finish it off.

References

[1] On The Edge 118, page 22

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/careless_torque-73520?v=1

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hard-gritstone-repeats.html

No witnesses, no details.

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/careless-torque-repeat.8438/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/7020953

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/3063577282/in/photostream/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/11/big_saturday_for_stanage_-_ned_feehally+ryan_pasquill-45469
Neil Kershaw Boulder 2010s

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/21711017?share=copy&fl=cl&fe=ci#t=665.049
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk 2 sessions. First female ascent. Boulder | ground up 21st Feb 2013

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G16I4UK8ZyI

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/significant-repeats.10607/post-470805

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/significant-repeats.10607/post-470805
Billy Ridal 4 sessions. Boulder | worked 4th Jan 2015

References

[1] Blocheads (2016) /library/11088/blocheads

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7B9rJNcDW03gtbSr5v2u9S?

Fourth or fifth go.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnum0wzr4js/
Nils Favre Boulder | ground up 15th May 2023
Leon Joyce Boulder | worked 24th Nov 2023
Pietro Vidi Boulder | worked 30th Sep 2025