Andy Earl

ifsc.results.info

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 63 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

References

[1] UKC Profile of Andy Earl

[2] Andy competing at CWIF in 2008 https://www.instagram.com/p/CMXRnL7j1pW/

[3] Andy Earl on Top of the World by Steve Crowe, May 2020 https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Contributors: remus (33 contributions since 13 Jan 2021)
Added on 15th November 2020. Last updated on 7th October 2024.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Height: 183 cm
Weight: 63 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8b
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

References

[1] UKC Profile of Andy Earl

[2] Andy competing at CWIF in 2008 https://www.instagram.com/p/CMXRnL7j1pW/

[3] Andy Earl on Top of the World by Steve Crowe, May 2020 https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Contributors: remus (33 contributions since 13 Jan 2021)
Added on 15th November 2020. Last updated on 7th October 2024.

Lists


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:07 on 14 July 2022
High Fidelity (8B)
Added at 09:04 on 08 April 2024
Master Blaster Arête (E7, FA)
Added at 13:07 on 05 July 2024
The Prow (8A, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

19 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1995 Pockets Traverse 7C Boulder | worked 1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000 The Young 7C+ Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.

Andy's original sequence was harder than the sequence used now, this why he suggested 8A+.

Chris Graham:

Having seen Andy on it, he was certainly playing to his bone-crushing finger strength by making a cross through to opposing, shallow pockets and moving up from there whereas Dan ended up making a long move from one of these holds and could just get his fingers onto the poor sloper above. After matching on this, it’s a series of tenuous, balancy moves on some weird looking ‘pancake’ features to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

2001 Master Blaster Arête E7 Lead | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 10

2002
2003 The Bitch 8A+ Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
County Ethics 7C+ Solo | worked 2003
Second ascent.

Top roped then soloed.

The Prow 8A Solo | worked Apr 2003
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/

The Dark Side E9 Lead | worked Oct 2003
First ascent.

Steve Crowe:

It all went smoothly, me hanging on ab rope taking photos (another camera on a tripod & motor drive, click click click) then suddenly… Andy was barn dooring, somehow he reeled it in dropped a gear and exploded up to the break. Phew but no “Shit!” he was wrong handed with his hand in the slot where his only cam should go and the cam was now out of reach on the wrong side of his harness. Karin [Magog], a tiny thing, way below holding a rope that wasn’t clipped into anything yet was wondering wether to run or spot Andy when he fell. Somehow Andy got a hold of the cam and rammed in where it didn’t really fit and freestyled an untested sequence and thankfully made it to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

2004 Endless Flight Direct E8 Lead | worked 2004
First ascent.
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Jan 2004
Second ascent.
UIAA European Champion...
European
2nd Boulder (Men) 27th June 2004
2005 UIAA Worldcup (B) - Fi...
World Cup
3rd 17th June 2005
2006 Cypher 8B Boulder | worked 22nd Nov 2006
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2006
2007 Vecchio Leone 8B Boulder | worked 2007
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | ground up 2007

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

IFSC Climbing Worldcup...
World Cup
1st Boulder (Men) 5th May 2007
Blood Sport 8A+ Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2007
High Fidelity 8B Boulder | worked 16th Nov 2007
Third ascent.

Chris Graham:

Anyway so we get to Caley, Andy brushes the holds and sets off, not expecting to get too far on his first go. Undoubtedly inspired by my awesome spotting ability he waltzed straight past the crux to top it out first try. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdG26UwP1YA

2008
2009 Arc Royal 8A+ Boulder | worked 2009
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Dalliance 8b+ Lead | worked
The Bastard 8b Lead | onsight
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | worked Jan 2004
Second ascent.
Cypher 8B Boulder | worked 22nd Nov 2006
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2006
Vecchio Leone 8B Boulder | worked 2007
High Fidelity 8B Boulder | worked 16th Nov 2007
Third ascent.

Chris Graham:

Anyway so we get to Caley, Andy brushes the holds and sets off, not expecting to get too far on his first go. Undoubtedly inspired by my awesome spotting ability he waltzed straight past the crux to top it out first try. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdG26UwP1YA

The Bitch 8A+ Boulder | worked 2003
First ascent.
Blood Sport 8A+ Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2007 8B
Arc Royal 8A+ Boulder | worked 2009
The Prow 8A Solo | worked Apr 2003
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/

Careless Torque 8A Boulder | ground up 2007

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Queen Kong 8A Boulder | worked

Third ascent.

References

[1] The Slow Roads by Dan Varian, Spotter Magazine, issue 2, page 56

The Young 7C+ Boulder | worked 2000 8A+
First ascent.

Andy's original sequence was harder than the sequence used now, this why he suggested 8A+.

Chris Graham:

Having seen Andy on it, he was certainly playing to his bone-crushing finger strength by making a cross through to opposing, shallow pockets and moving up from there whereas Dan ended up making a long move from one of these holds and could just get his fingers onto the poor sloper above. After matching on this, it’s a series of tenuous, balancy moves on some weird looking ‘pancake’ features to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

County Ethics 7C+ Solo | worked 2003
Second ascent.

Top roped then soloed.

Pockets Traverse 7C Boulder | worked 1995
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Dark Side E9 Lead | worked Oct 2003
First ascent.

Steve Crowe:

It all went smoothly, me hanging on ab rope taking photos (another camera on a tripod & motor drive, click click click) then suddenly… Andy was barn dooring, somehow he reeled it in dropped a gear and exploded up to the break. Phew but no “Shit!” he was wrong handed with his hand in the slot where his only cam should go and the cam was now out of reach on the wrong side of his harness. Karin [Magog], a tiny thing, way below holding a rope that wasn’t clipped into anything yet was wondering wether to run or spot Andy when he fell. Somehow Andy got a hold of the cam and rammed in where it didn’t really fit and freestyled an untested sequence and thankfully made it to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Endless Flight Direct E8 Lead | worked 2004
First ascent.
Master Blaster Arête E7 Lead | worked 2001
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 10

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade