Andy Earl

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References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/andrew-earl-the-ace-climber/

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/andrew-earl-the-ace-climber/

Chris Graham:

Anyway so we get to Caley, Andy brushes the holds and sets off, not expecting to get too far on his first go. Undoubtedly inspired by my awesome spotting ability he waltzed straight past the crux to top it out first try. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdG26UwP1YA

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/06/andy_earl_climbs_beautiful_new_8b_in_northumberland-38078

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] The Slow Roads by Dan Varian, Spotter Magazine, issue 2, page 56

Andy's original sequence was harder than the sequence used now, this why he suggested 8A+.

Chris Graham:

Having seen Andy on it, he was certainly playing to his bone-crushing finger strength by making a cross through to opposing, shallow pockets and moving up from there whereas Dan ended up making a long move from one of these holds and could just get his fingers onto the poor sloper above. After matching on this, it’s a series of tenuous, balancy moves on some weird looking ‘pancake’ features to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Top roped then soloed.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

Steve Crowe:

It all went smoothly, me hanging on ab rope taking photos (another camera on a tripod & motor drive, click click click) then suddenly… Andy was barn dooring, somehow he reeled it in dropped a gear and exploded up to the break. Phew but no “Shit!” he was wrong handed with his hand in the slot where his only cam should go and the cam was now out of reach on the wrong side of his harness. Karin [Magog], a tiny thing, way below holding a rope that wasn’t clipped into anything yet was wondering wether to run or spot Andy when he fell. Somehow Andy got a hold of the cam and rammed in where it didn’t really fit and freestyled an untested sequence and thankfully made it to the top. [1]

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 105, page 10