Dan Varian

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/6888177035/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/8128371685/in/photostream/

https://vimeo.com/23044295

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/5430896018/in/photostream/

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

Highballed above a stack of pads.

https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html

https://vimeo.com/54763322

https://youtu.be/re59GMVnVv8?t=315

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re59GMVnVv8

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

For me it was my perfect experience of climbing.

References

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/

With this ascent Dan had climbed every 8th grade problem in Northumberland. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4bRrEUd2U0S1NfuZbyQ7h3?si=c8194c8d16624c07

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52502998907/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/

http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52692867578/in/photostream/

The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg674071.html#msg674071

[2] Photos from a prior session, around Jan 2019 https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52728372113/in/datetaken-public/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52727369447/in/datetaken-public/

[3] https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/

[4] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_on_the_magna_strata_8b+-15091