Dan Varian


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Bewilderness (8B+, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Dandelion Mind (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Serenity (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Transcendence (E9)
Added at 14:01 on 06 January 2021
A Bigger Belly (8B, FA)
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2022
Second Coming (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
The Prow (8A)
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
The Rail (8B+, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020

Ascents

40 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2006 Queen Kong 8A (Boulder) 2006
2007
2008 A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 6th December 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

2009
2010 Badger Badger Badger 8A (Boulder) 2010
2011 Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 2011

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26th April 2011
The Prow 8A (Boulder) November 2011

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

The Dark Side E9 (Lead Ground up) December 2011

Highballed above a stack of pads.

https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html

2012 Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 2012
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) Between 2nd Jan. 2012 and 2nd Jan. 2013
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) June 2012
Home 8B (Boulder) October 2012
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) November 2012

https://vimeo.com/54763322

2013 Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) June 2013

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) August 2013
Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) October 2013

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10th October 2013

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

2014 Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 2014

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

2015 Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 2015
2016 L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 2016

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) March 2016
Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) March 2016
2017 Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 2017
Moonrise Kingdom E9 (Lead) May 2017

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) November 2017

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

2018 Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 2018
Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 2018
2019 Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 2019

For me it was my perfect experience of climbing.

References

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Transcendence E9 (Lead) 9th March 2019

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) April 2019

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

2020
2021 Hot Shots 8B (Boulder) 2021

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/

2022 Eagle Huntress 8B (Boulder) April 2022

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/

http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10th October 2013 8B+

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 2015
Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 2019 8B+

For me it was my perfect experience of climbing.

References

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Bewilderness 8B+ (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/28097486

Crescendo 8B+ (Boulder)
La Ligne De Bête 8B+ (Boulder)
Serendipity 8B+ (Boulder)
L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 2016

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 2008

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 2011

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 2012
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) June 2012
Home 8B (Boulder) October 2012
Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) August 2013
Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 2014

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) March 2016
Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) March 2016
Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 2017
Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 2018
Hot Shots 8B (Boulder) 2021

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/

Eagle Huntress 8B (Boulder) April 2022

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/

http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/

Flip Flopera 8B (Boulder)
Sideshow 8B (Boulder)
Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26th April 2011
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) November 2012

https://vimeo.com/54763322

Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) October 2013

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) November 2017

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

Cypher 8B (Boulder)
Serenity 8B (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/3529545

Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) April 2019

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 6th December 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) June 2013

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Queen Kong 8A (Boulder) 2006
Badger Badger Badger 8A (Boulder) 2010
The Prow 8A (Boulder) November 2011

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 2018
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) Between 2nd Jan. 2012 and 2nd Jan. 2013
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade