Dan Varian


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Bewilderness (8B+, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Dandelion Mind (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Second Coming (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Serenity (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Transcendence (E9)
Added at 14:01 on 06 January 2021
The Prow (8A)
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
The Rail (8B+, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020

Ascents

40 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2006 Queen Kong 8A (Boulder) 1st January 2006 (approx)
2007
2008 A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2008 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 6th December 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

2009
2010 Badger Badger Badger 8A (Boulder) 1st January 2010 (approx)
2011 Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2011 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26th April 2011
The Prow 8A (Boulder) 1st November 2011 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

The Dark Side E9 (Lead Ground up) 19th December 2011 (approx)

Highballed above a stack of pads.

https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html

2012 Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2012 (approx)
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) 2nd January 2012 (approx)
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) 1st June 2012 (approx)
Home 8B (Boulder) 1st October 2012 (approx)
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) 1st November 2012 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/54763322

2013 Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) 27th June 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) 1st August 2013 (approx)
Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) 1st October 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10th October 2013

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

2014 Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2014 (approx)

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

2015 Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2015 (approx)
2016 L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2016 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2016 (approx)
Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2016 (approx)
2017 Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2017 (approx)
Moonrise Kingdom E9 (Lead) 1st May 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) 21st November 2017 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

2018 Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2018 (approx)
Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 1st January 2018 (approx)
2019 Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2019 (approx)

For me it was my perfect experience of climbing.

References

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Transcendence E9 (Lead) 9th March 2019

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) 1st April 2019 (approx)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

2020
2021 Hot Shots 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/

2022 Eagle Huntress 8B (Boulder) 1st April 2022 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/

http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10th October 2013 8B+

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2015 (approx)
Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2019 (approx) 8B+

For me it was my perfect experience of climbing.

References

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

Video https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/49308851368/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Crescendo 8B+ (Boulder)
Bewilderness 8B+ (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/28097486

Serendipity 8B+ (Boulder)
La Ligne De Bête 8B+ (Boulder)
L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 1st January 2016 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2008 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2011 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2012 (approx)
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) 1st June 2012 (approx)
Home 8B (Boulder) 1st October 2012 (approx)
Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) 1st August 2013 (approx)
Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2014 (approx)

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2016 (approx)
Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) 1st March 2016 (approx)
Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2017 (approx)
Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2018 (approx)
Hot Shots 8B (Boulder) 1st January 2021 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51497360581/in/photostream/

Eagle Huntress 8B (Boulder) 1st April 2022 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52090730298/in/photostream/

http://www.lakesbloc.com/2022/04/08/eagle-huntress-8b-mardale-head-boulders/

Sideshow 8B (Boulder)
Flip Flopera 8B (Boulder)
Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26th April 2011
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) 1st November 2012 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/54763322

Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) 1st October 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) 21st November 2017 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

Cypher 8B (Boulder)
Serenity 8B (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/3529545

Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) 1st April 2019 (approx)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 6th December 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) 27th June 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Queen Kong 8A (Boulder) 1st January 2006 (approx)
Badger Badger Badger 8A (Boulder) 1st January 2010 (approx)
The Prow 8A (Boulder) 1st November 2011 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 1st January 2018 (approx)
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) 2nd January 2012 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade