Dan Varian

flickr.com | beastmaker.co.uk

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Dan Varian is a British boulderer and prolific developer, particularly around Northumberland and the north of England more generally. Dan is also part owner of Beastmaker.

References

[1] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

[2] http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_-_first_ascensionist_extraordinaire-8744

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Dan Varian is a British boulderer and prolific developer, particularly around Northumberland and the north of England more generally. Dan is also part owner of Beastmaker.

References

[1] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

[2] http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_-_first_ascensionist_extraordinaire-8744

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Queen Kong (8A, FA)
Added at 19:04 on 15 April 2024
Cypher (8B)
Added at 19:12 on 12 December 2023
The Prow (8A)
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Stanton Deliver (8A+, FA)
Added at 19:12 on 12 December 2023
Karma (8A+)
Added at 21:02 on 28 February 2024
Weeping Arete (8B+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 05 July 2024
Mr Blobby (8A+, FA)
Added at 06:02 on 29 February 2024
The Rail (8B+, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020
Transcendence (E9)
Added at 14:01 on 06 January 2021
Dandelion Mind (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Second Coming (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Bewilderness (8B+, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Serenity (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
The Magna Strata (8B+, FA)
Added at 12:03 on 09 March 2023
Cruachan (8A+, FA)
Added at 19:04 on 19 April 2023
Marra Time (8A+, FA)
Added at 19:04 on 19 April 2023
The Prow (8A)
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
A Bigger Belly (8B, FA)
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2022
Catapult (8A+)
Added at 07:02 on 17 February 2023

Ascents

68 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
2006 Queen Kong 8A Boulder | worked 2006
First ascent.

References

[1] From a later ascent? https://youtu.be/I-2o1H-30Og?t=93

2007
2008 Serendipity 8B+ Boulder | worked 2008
First ascent.
A Bigger Belly 8B Boulder | worked 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Little Women 8B+ Boulder | worked Dec 2008
Superbloc 8A+ Boulder | ground up 6th Dec 2008
2009 Arc Royal 8A+ Boulder | worked 2009
2010 Ivan Dobsky 8A+ Boulder | worked 2010
Badger Badger Badger 8A Boulder | worked 2010
First ascent.
The Young 7C+ Boulder | worked 2010
Sean's Roof 8A+ Boulder | worked Aug 2010
Nth Power 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2010
2011 Home 8B Boulder | worked 2011
Dandelion Mind 8B Boulder | worked 2011
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/23044295

Rhythm 8A+ Boulder | worked 2011
Stanton Deliver 8A+ Boulder | worked 9th Feb 2011
Cypher 8B Boulder | worked Between 10th Feb 2011 and 18th Feb 2011
Voyager 8B Boulder | worked 26th Apr 2011
The Prow 8A Boulder | worked Nov 2011
The Dark Side E9 Lead | ground up Dec 2011
2012 Potty Mouth 8B Boulder | worked 2012
First ascent.
County Ethics 7C+ Boulder | flash Between 2nd Jan 2012 and 2nd Jan 2013
End Sequence 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2012
First ascent.
Second Coming 8B Boulder | worked Nov 2012
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/54763322

2013 Marra Time 8A+ Boulder | worked 2013
Cruachan 8A+ Boulder | worked 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re59GMVnVv8

Lanny Bassham 8A+ Boulder | worked Jun 2013

Dan was initially trying it ground up but the high, scrittly top section put a dampener on progress so he resorted to a quick inspection on a rope before dispatching it.

References

[1] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Dark Edges 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2013
First ascent.
Isla de Encanta 8B Boulder | worked Oct 2013
The Rail 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Oct 2013
First ascent.

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

2014 Hobbie Noble 8B Boulder | worked 2014
First ascent.

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

2015 Star Power 8B+ Boulder | worked 2015
First ascent.
Northern Time 8B Boulder | worked 2015
First ascent.
Tsar Pushka 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2015
First ascent.
2016 L'Alchemiste 8B+ Boulder | worked 2016
Rocking Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 2016
First ascent.
Mr Blobby 8A+ Boulder | worked 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS0VspdIfIo

Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 2016
Panic on Funkotron 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2016
First ascent.
Deep Space Jam 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2016
First ascent.
2017 Master of Stone 8B Boulder | worked 2017
First ascent.
Moonrise Kingdom E9 Lead | worked May 2017
High Fidelity 8B Boulder | ground up Nov 2017
2018 Flipnic 8B Boulder | worked 2018
First ascent.
Rift Aversion 7C+ Boulder | worked 2018
First ascent.
2019 Bombadil 8B+ Boulder | worked 2019
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 9th Mar 2019
Mein Vein SDS 8A+ Boulder | worked Apr 2019
2020
2021 Hot Shots 8B Boulder | worked 2021
2022 Tide Lines 8B Boulder | worked 2022
First ascent.
Catapult 8A+ Boulder | worked 2022

With this ascent Dan had climbed every 8th grade problem in Northumberland. [1]

Chris's FA of this is one of the most impressive single moves ever done when body height is taken into account. decades ahead of its time and world cup comps still aren't setting double kick dynos off blank walls. 2 impressive repeats from Will Atkinson and Mike Mullins in 21 years and both were around 6ft 2-3 with a positive ape. Considering no one else has even done this and Monk's shows how specialised bouldering can be. 17 years of bouldering 8s in the county and i've scraped my way up (to the best of my knowledge) the independent 8's. On paper its nothing special, its a feat that Jack Palmieri has surpassed in a year which is incredible. On rock you have to deal with each line as they come sometimes. Catapult is there, Monks is there, they're both cool and thats what matters. There's a few of my own additions from along the way that've been memorable too. To me Northumberland will always be THE county. A place i'm always thankful to be able to be a climber in. [2]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4bRrEUd2U0S1NfuZbyQ7h3?

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52502998907/

Eagle Huntress 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2022
Eagle Huntress (Stand) 8A Boulder | worked May 2022
First ascent.
2023 Right Here Right Now 8B Boulder | worked 2023
The Magna Strata 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2023
First ascent.

The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg674071.html#msg674071

[2] Photos from a prior session, around Jan 2019 https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52728372113/in/datetaken-public/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52727369447/in/datetaken-public/

[3] https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/

[4] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_on_the_magna_strata_8b+-15091

2024 Weeping Arete 8B+ Boulder | worked 8th Jun 2024
First ascent.

Ultimately though its a line I'm hugely proud of seeing through, and I really enjoyed the time I had at Brimham figuring it out. I mean the hardest big line on grit is kid friendly and has a cafe and toilets, what's not to like!

These three lines [Bombadil, The Magna Strata, Weeping Arete] help represent my older vision for the niche of climbing I've fallen into without any chat about the number. Hopefully climbers can just look at the features and forms on the rock. Like hundreds of thousands do at Brimham each year on other rocks, and just get why it's something worth appreciating that - not only does the feature exist - but it's also a great physical challenge to climb up it. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C84sQzVNY-J/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/07/dan_varian_makes_first_ascent_of_weeping_arete_8b+-73726

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Serendipity 8B+ Boulder | worked 2008
First ascent.
The Rail 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Oct 2013 8B+
First ascent.

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

Star Power 8B+ Boulder | worked 2015
First ascent.
Bombadil 8B+ Boulder | worked 2019 8B+
The Magna Strata 8B+ Boulder | worked Feb 2023
First ascent.

The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg674071.html#msg674071

[2] Photos from a prior session, around Jan 2019 https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52728372113/in/datetaken-public/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/ann-nigel/52727369447/in/datetaken-public/

[3] https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/

[4] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/dan_varian_on_the_magna_strata_8b+-15091

Weeping Arete 8B+ Boulder | worked 8th Jun 2024
First ascent.

Ultimately though its a line I'm hugely proud of seeing through, and I really enjoyed the time I had at Brimham figuring it out. I mean the hardest big line on grit is kid friendly and has a cafe and toilets, what's not to like!

These three lines [Bombadil, The Magna Strata, Weeping Arete] help represent my older vision for the niche of climbing I've fallen into without any chat about the number. Hopefully climbers can just look at the features and forms on the rock. Like hundreds of thousands do at Brimham each year on other rocks, and just get why it's something worth appreciating that - not only does the feature exist - but it's also a great physical challenge to climb up it. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C84sQzVNY-J/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/07/dan_varian_makes_first_ascent_of_weeping_arete_8b+-73726

La Ligne De Bête 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Bewilderness 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/28097486

Crescendo 8B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Little Women 8B+ Boulder | worked Dec 2008
L'Alchemiste 8B+ Boulder | worked 2016
A Bigger Belly 8B Boulder | worked 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Peb1QdlzZdI

Home 8B Boulder | worked 2011
Dandelion Mind 8B Boulder | worked 2011
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/23044295

Potty Mouth 8B Boulder | worked 2012
First ascent.
End Sequence 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2012
First ascent.
Dark Edges 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2013
First ascent.
Hobbie Noble 8B Boulder | worked 2014
First ascent.

There's a two finger dimple...you pull over with that and then you flip your palm and get your foot up. As I was pulling over with it my ring finger popped out of the dink so I was mono crimping with my middle finger, and I started to reel backwards and went in to emergency crimping but on a mono, and just pulled myself back the right way...That was memorable!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

Northern Time 8B Boulder | worked 2015
First ascent.
Tsar Pushka 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2015
First ascent.
Rocking Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 2016
First ascent.
Panic on Funkotron 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2016
First ascent.
Deep Space Jam 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2016
First ascent.
Master of Stone 8B Boulder | worked 2017
First ascent.
Flipnic 8B Boulder | worked 2018
First ascent.
Hot Shots 8B Boulder | worked 2021
Tide Lines 8B Boulder | worked 2022
First ascent.
Eagle Huntress 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2022
Right Here Right Now 8B Boulder | worked 2023
Flip Flopera 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Sideshow 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Capability Brawn 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Blondie 8B Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Cypher 8B Boulder | worked Between 10th Feb 2011 and 18th Feb 2011
Voyager 8B Boulder | worked 26th Apr 2011
Second Coming 8B Boulder | worked Nov 2012
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/54763322

Isla de Encanta 8B Boulder | worked Oct 2013
High Fidelity 8B Boulder | ground up Nov 2017
Serenity 8B Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/3529545

Arc Royal 8A+ Boulder | worked 2009
Ivan Dobsky 8A+ Boulder | worked 2010
Nth Power 8A+ Boulder | worked Nov 2010
Stanton Deliver 8A+ Boulder | worked 9th Feb 2011
Marra Time 8A+ Boulder | worked 2013
Cruachan 8A+ Boulder | worked 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re59GMVnVv8

Mr Blobby 8A+ Boulder | worked 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS0VspdIfIo

Mein Vein SDS 8A+ Boulder | worked Apr 2019
Star Slinger 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
A Bigger Berry SDS 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Awooga SDS 8A+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Superbloc 8A+ Boulder | ground up 6th Dec 2008
Sean's Roof 8A+ Boulder | worked Aug 2010
Rhythm 8A+ Boulder | worked 2011
Lanny Bassham 8A+ Boulder | worked Jun 2013

Dan was initially trying it ground up but the high, scrittly top section put a dampener on progress so he resorted to a quick inspection on a rope before dispatching it.

References

[1] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Karma 8A+ Boulder | worked 2016
Catapult 8A+ Boulder | worked 2022

With this ascent Dan had climbed every 8th grade problem in Northumberland. [1]

Chris's FA of this is one of the most impressive single moves ever done when body height is taken into account. decades ahead of its time and world cup comps still aren't setting double kick dynos off blank walls. 2 impressive repeats from Will Atkinson and Mike Mullins in 21 years and both were around 6ft 2-3 with a positive ape. Considering no one else has even done this and Monk's shows how specialised bouldering can be. 17 years of bouldering 8s in the county and i've scraped my way up (to the best of my knowledge) the independent 8's. On paper its nothing special, its a feat that Jack Palmieri has surpassed in a year which is incredible. On rock you have to deal with each line as they come sometimes. Catapult is there, Monks is there, they're both cool and thats what matters. There's a few of my own additions from along the way that've been memorable too. To me Northumberland will always be THE county. A place i'm always thankful to be able to be a climber in. [2]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4bRrEUd2U0S1NfuZbyQ7h3?

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/52502998907/

Queen Kong 8A Boulder | worked 2006
First ascent.

References

[1] From a later ascent? https://youtu.be/I-2o1H-30Og?t=93

Badger Badger Badger 8A Boulder | worked 2010
First ascent.
Eagle Huntress (Stand) 8A Boulder | worked May 2022
First ascent.
The Prow 8A Boulder | worked Nov 2011
Rift Aversion 7C+ Boulder | worked 2018
First ascent.
The Young 7C+ Boulder | worked 2010
County Ethics 7C+ Boulder | flash Between 2nd Jan 2012 and 2nd Jan 2013
Awooga 7C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
A Bigger Berry 7B+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Moonrise Kingdom E9 Lead | worked May 2017
The Dark Side E9 Lead | ground up Dec 2011
Transcendence E9 Lead | worked 9th Mar 2019
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade