Dan Varian


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Prolific first ascentionist with some of the UKs hardest problems to his name. Part owner of Beastmaker.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/

Features in Life on Hold.


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
The Rail (8B+, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020
Transcendence (E9)
Added at 14:01 on 06 January 2021
Dandelion Mind (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Second Coming (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Bewilderness (8B+, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Serenity (8B)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
The Prow (8A)
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

35 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2008 A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2008 (approx)
Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 06 Dec 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

2009
2010
2011 Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2011 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26 Apr 2011
The Prow 8A (Boulder) 01 Nov 2011 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

The Dark Side E9 (Lead Ground up) 19 Dec 2011 (approx)

Highballed above a stack of pads.

https://marksavagephotography.blogspot.com/2011/12/darth-varian-turns-to-dark-side.html

2012 Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2012 (approx)
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) 02 Jan 2012 (approx)
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) 01 Jun 2012 (approx)
Home 8B (Boulder) 01 Oct 2012 (approx)
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) 01 Nov 2012 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/54763322

2013 Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) 27 Jun 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) 01 Aug 2013 (approx)
Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) 01 Oct 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10 Oct 2013

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

2014 Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2014 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

2015 Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2015 (approx)
2016 L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2016 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2016 (approx)
Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2016 (approx)
2017 Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2017 (approx)
Moonrise Kingdom E9 (Lead) 01 May 2017 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/moonrise_kingdom_new_e9_multipitch_by_mchaffie_and_varian-71089

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) 21 Nov 2017 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

2018 Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2018 (approx)
Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2018 (approx)
2019 Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2019 (approx)

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Transcendence E9 (Lead) 09 Mar 2019

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVmbGjd3pK8

Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Apr 2019 (approx)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Rail 8B+ (Boulder) 10 Oct 2013

If it's the best climb I ever do I'll retire a happy man, if it's the hardest, likewise. All I know is that it was a joy seeing through the process. This to me is why I boulder, for the difficulty and intricacy that can only be felt without distractions, to climb up lines like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NLOMZKFGOs

Star Power 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2015 (approx)
Bombadil 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2019 (approx)

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704602472/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48704573032/in/photostream

Serendipity 8B+ (Boulder)
La Ligne De Bête 8B+ (Boulder)
Bewilderness 8B+ (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/28097486

L'Alchemiste 8B+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2016 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/33977773295/in/dateposted/

A Bigger Belly 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2008 (approx)
Dandelion Mind 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2011 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/23044295

Potty Mouth 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2012 (approx)
End Sequence 8B (Boulder) 01 Jun 2012 (approx)
Home 8B (Boulder) 01 Oct 2012 (approx)
Dark Edges 8B (Boulder) 01 Aug 2013 (approx)
Hobbie Noble 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2014 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/hobbie_noble_highball_8b_first_ascent_for_varian-69031

Panic on Funkotron 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2016 (approx)
Deep Space Jam 8B (Boulder) 01 Mar 2016 (approx)
Master of Stone 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2017 (approx)
Flipnic 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2018 (approx)
Flip Flopera 8B (Boulder)
Sideshow 8B (Boulder)
Voyager 8B (Boulder) 26 Apr 2011
Second Coming 8B (Boulder) 01 Nov 2012 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/54763322

Isla de Encanta 8B (Boulder) 01 Oct 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/10307407215/#secret328c77982f

High Fidelity 8B (Boulder Ground up) 21 Nov 2017 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/24674839658/

Serenity 8B (Boulder)

https://vimeo.com/3529545

Cypher 8B (Boulder)
Mein Vein 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Apr 2019 (approx)

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=914

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder Ground up) 06 Dec 2008

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/12/dan_varian_repeats_superbloc_e8font_8a-45495

Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) 27 Jun 2013 (approx)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/9148842045/#secret7ee522a272

The Prow 8A (Boulder) 01 Nov 2011 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

Rift Aversion 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 2018 (approx)
County Ethics 7C+ (Boulder Flash) 02 Jan 2012 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade