Mountain 109 (May/June 1986) | Magazine

Issue 109.

Bernard Newman takes a strong stance on sport climbing in light of Johnny Dawes' impressive haul of gritstone new routes:

At last the laughable dual standards of British outcrop climbing have been brought into sharp focus. Many of Dawes' routes are longer if not harder than their limestone counterparts, but the leading exponents of the latter have no hesitation in placing several bolts on abseil to protect their routes.

Surely the future of British outcrop climbing should lie with the non-destructive top roping of small climbs, which would allow for eventual clean ascents by sufficiently brave and gifted individuals, rather than the reduction, by bolting, ofour little crags to pointless, Buoux style, climbing gymnasia.

References

[1] Page 19

Thumbnail

Mountain 109 thumbnail
Editor
Associate Editor
Gear Editor
Contributor
Features
Crags
The crags listed here may not include all crags mentioned in the library item. Minor crags of little interest are likely to be omitted, and some larger crags may not yet have been added.
Summits
Library Collections