The Angel's Share | 7C Boulder problem at Black Rocks


Highball. Slab.

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large carved runnel to get established on the base of the slab. The runnel is believed to be a historical 'drip edge detail' for a dwelling or shelter that once stood under the roof.

Johnny Dawes' original line climbed the centre of the slab. He has since said this was worth Font 8A. [2]

1996 Chatsworth guide description:

The Angel's Share 7m, E8 7a

A contender for the hardest route in the area. From the gutter, climb the blank-looking slab directly up its centre with great confidence and total disbelief! Considering the length of this route, the grade 'says' it all.

In 1998 the centre line lost a pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

Subsequent ascensionists have taken lines further right, where the slab is slightly less steep, but the temptation to reach for the arete of Velvet Silence is greater.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

[2] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=475

Contributors
TdG
65 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
remus
60 contributions since 20th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

14 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Johnny Dawes Boulder | worked 19th Jun 1994 E8
First ascent.

Straight up the centre of the slab, Dawes reckoned the climbing would be worth 8A. Climbed without pads – after top-roping but with no falls – and graded E8 7a.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=676

Shane Ohly Boulder | worked Between 1st Jan 1995 and 1st Jan 1998
Second ascent.
Tom de Gay Solo | did not finish 1998

Close but no cigar. Via original line to left of seam, removing an important pebble on the solo, unfortunately. One pad.

Ben Heason Boulder | worked 2000s

Early 2000s. Possibly the first repeat via a right hand line, which has become a popular solution to the slab since the demise of a pebble.

Adam Long Boulder | ground up Mar 2007
Michele Caminati Boulder | worked 2011
Katy Whittaker Boulder | worked Feb 2012
Mark Rankine Boulder | worked 6th Dec 2014
Pete Bridgwood Solo | ground up 27th Mar 2015
Cailean Harker Boulder | worked 19th Nov 2017
Billy Ridal Boulder | worked 17th Jul 2020
Alex Moore Boulder | ground up 20th Apr 2023
Jim Pope Boulder | worked 17th Apr 2024
Mike Adams Boulder | worked 18th Oct 2025

I climbed it slightly right, but I'm more than happy with that.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DP9e7oCiqDu/