The Angel's Share | 7C Boulder problem at Black Rocks

United Kingdom / England / Derbyshire / Matlock

Highball. Slab.

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large carved runnel to get established on the base of the slab. The runnel is believed to be a historical 'drip edge detail' for a dwelling or shelter that once stood under the roof.

Johnny Dawes' original line climbed the centre of the slab. He has since said this was worth Font 8A. [2]

1996 Chatsworth guide description:

The Angel's Share 7m, E8 7a

A contender for the hardest route in the area. From the gutter, climb the blank-looking slab directly up its centre with great confidence and total disbelief! Considering the length of this route, the grade 'says' it all.

In 1998 the centre line lost a pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

Subsequent ascensionists have taken lines further right, where the slab is slightly less steep, but the temptation to reach for the arete of Velvet Silence is greater. Dawes has top-roped this line no-handed. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

[2] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=475

[3] Correspondence, October 2025.

Contributors
TdG
67 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
remus
62 contributions since 20th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

14 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

Straight up the centre of the slab, Dawes reckoned the climbing would be worth 8A. Climbed without pads – after top-roping but with no falls – and graded E8 7a.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=676

Shane Ohly Boulder | worked 1995-1997
Second ascent.

Close but no cigar. Via original line to left of seam, removing an important pebble on the solo, unfortunately. One pad.

Early 2000s. Possibly the first repeat via a right hand line, which has become a popular solution to the slab since the demise of a pebble.

Mark Rankine Boulder | worked 6th Dec 2014
Pete Bridgwood Solo | ground up 27th Mar 2015
Cailean Harker Boulder | worked 19th Nov 2017
Billy Ridal Boulder | worked 17th Jul 2020
Alex Moore Boulder | ground up 20th Apr 2023

I climbed it slightly right, but I'm more than happy with that.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DP9e7oCiqDu/