El Capitan

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Ascent took 3 days with lots of aid but no bolts.

References

Roper, S (1994). Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber. USA: The Mountaineers p52-53

A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.

Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.

[Chris Jones, interviewing] The first ascent of the South Buttress of El Cap - the Nose - has been described, but is it true that you started this because you had been beaten by Robbins and party on the North Face of Half Dome?

Yes, it is true. The previous Fall, I was a member of the party that made the first serious attempt on the North West Face of Half Dome. I was not particularly impressed with the leader of this group (not Robbins), so I decided to form a party of my own. This turned out to be a truly splendid team: Powell, Harding, Dolt. However, when we reached the Valley in mid-June, we were taken aback and rather disgruntled to find that an excellent team of climbers, now led by Royal Robbins, had the matter of Half Dome North West Face well in hand.

In a fit of egotistical pique, we grumbled around the Valley for a couple of days, trying to figure out what to do. The solution was quite simple: any climb less than Half Dome was beneath us; only a greater climb would do 1 Our objective was rather obvious!

It soon became obvious, too, that we were getting in over our heads with the difficulties presented by El Cap. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 9 (1970), page 16

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CahGHKkNYcs/

13 bolts placed, mainly on the lower slabs. Many more have been added in subsequent ascents.

Denny joined Cooper and Baldwin half way through the siege.

References

[1] Roper, S ed. (2002). Ordeal by Piton. USA: Stanford University Library p111

While prussiking a fixed line Jim suffered a serious accident when his prussiks slipped. He managed to stop his fall after 100 feet by grabbing the rope but seriously burnt his hands in the process, requiring a month off climbing to recover.

References

[1] Erik Sloan. Yosemite Bigwalls Select: The Ultimate Guide. N.p.: Yosemite Bigwalls, 2021.

Initial pitches were climbed by Kor and Eric Beck. The latter made way for Steve Roper:

I was preparing gear in Camp 4 when Steve Roper approached and informed me he was to be my new climbing partner for the West Buttress. "What's the deal?" I asked. "Where's Eric?" With a grin Roper answered "Eric sold me his interest in the climb for ten dollars and a Bong Bong." (Layton Kor)

References

[1] Kor, L (2013) Beyond the Vertical (2nd Ed.) USA: Falcon Guides p109

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196533100/The-North-America-Wall

The seventh route on El Capitan.

"Finding that two climbers were already trying the Morning Light Route on the North America Wall, we decided to try an unclimbed line through the Heart on the Salathé Wall. Chouinard, Herbert, and Robbins had already shown that fine alpine climbing style is possible on El Cap’s big walls. So, with nothing left to prove, we simply planned to have a good time."

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197127500/Heart-Route-El-Capitan

References

[1] Mountain 13 (1971), page 8

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-Fp_gpsULI

References

[1] Mountain 13 (1971), page 8

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-Fp_gpsULI

The first non-North American to participate in a new route on El Capitan although he did not do any of the leading.

References

[1] https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%20229-234%20Connor%20N%20America.pdf

Sylvester led all the pitches.

Rope-soloed by Porter over 11 days after dropping a haul bag with his bivi gear and some food not far up the route. Most of the lower half of route, before it traverses into The Wall of Early Morning Light, had previously been climbed by Chouinard, Pratt, Jones and Hennek.

Porter placed 35 RURPs (and two bolts) on the triple cracks pitch.

References

[1] https://archive.org/details/americanalpinejo0000unse_u0j0/page/416/mode/1up

Roped solo.

References

[1] https://archive.org/details/americanalpinejo0000unse_u0j0/page/416/mode/1up

References

[1] https://davediegelman.blogspot.com/2011/06/rurp-belay-sea-of-dreams-el-capitan.html?m=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku0F5ibXT8Q

References

[1] https://davediegelman.blogspot.com/2011/06/rurp-belay-sea-of-dreams-el-capitan.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ku0F5ibXT8Q

[3] Dave recounts his ascent of the "Hook or Book" pitch https://www.zionwest.com/fine/real/estate/46_years_ago_today/custom

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4a0aAAORdw/

After a monumental 39 days on the wall.

References

[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wings-Steel-Perspective-Christian-Continuous/dp/082800739X

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 7 /library/11129/mountain-107

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198706000

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 7 /library/11129/mountain-107

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 7 /library/11129/mountain-107

References

[1] Mountain Issue 107, page 7 /library/11129/mountain-107

First free ascent and a psychological breakthrough: the first time a route on the main face of El Capitan had been freed.

Climbed alternating hard leads with second jumaring and with the headwall split into three pitches.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 46

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 46

In 15 hours 25 minutes.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/places/how-hard-can-slab-climbs-actually-get/

The first of many FFAs on El Capitan. On the second pitch:

No single move is crazy, but for thirty minutes your feet are just sliding off the holds, so it’s more of a mind test. [1]

And the crux seventh pitch:

It’s probably a 5.13a slab to a really hard three-move section. Finally one day my foot just didn’t slip. I got the body position just right and I got through it. [1]

and the grade:

At the time I’d never heard of a slab harder than 5.13c so we just rated it that, I think in modern grade it would be firmly into 5.14.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/places/how-hard-can-slab-climbs-actually-get/

First free ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 12

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/golden-gate-the-huber-brothers-climb-el-capitan.html

First free ascent.

The Monster offwidth is the nastiest kind of crack - just too narrow to disappear inside yet much too wide to get an efficient jam with any part of your body between it's parallel walls. The moves are abnormal; abnormally strenuous, abnormally irritating and abnormally time-consuming. It's a horror-show; inch by inch you scrape your was upwards, heading towards release and redemption. It's a real battle, and it is just this confrontation with oft-quoted adventure that we are searching for in this vertical world. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 12, page 32

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/golden-gate-the-huber-brothers-climb-el-capitan.html

With Nick Sagar

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200220000/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWQhENRrJxc/

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-and-thomas-huber-free-the-zodiac.html

Belayed by Jason Pickles who seconded most of the route except the crux A1 beauty pitch and the Devil's Dyno. Pickles was also instrumental in early attempts on the line, leading many hard and dangerous pitches while the pair made early ground up attempts on the line.

I attempted the crux A1 beauty pitch, as hard as anything I ever climbed. Solid E9 7a, we called it 5.13d R but I think 5.14a R is fair.

After repeatedly failing, including once from the jugs at the top, with homebound flights the very next day we were all but defeated.

On the absolute last try, in the midday sun against all odds, I somehow connected with a force beyond myself and did it.

I don't think I'll ever come closer to the edge and walk away victorious. Those experiences are the best. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpcyocjh5l/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/leo-houlding-interview-after-the-prophet-on-el-capitan.html

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/leo_houlding_frees_the_prophet_-_el_capitan-58588

[4] http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-102710

[5] Leo discussing the successful ascent of the crux pitch with Steven Dimmitt on The Nugget https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnQw2w5R4eo

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-free-climb-the-dawn-wall-on-el-capitan.html

[2] The Dawn Wall (2017)

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-free-climb-the-dawn-wall-on-el-capitan.html

[2] The Dawn Wall (2017)

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/the-direct-line-is-new-39-pitch-5-13-el-cap-route/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B4adtRCH33q/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B4gYVn7h43J/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQW-cGyD87y/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DP_mU3GDPN8/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQCNZfJEeTz/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQfTcLeEovB/

[4] POV video part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESWifagWCsQ

[5] POV video part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qKiVSRrNr4

[6] POV video part 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtGwkgqhZPo

[7] POV video part 4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBUbazVX_vw

[8] POV video part 5 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lyx_aalPAq4

[9] POV video part 6 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzvIc7CSv3o

[10] POV video part 7 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx4Fzudf4lo

[11] POV video part 8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArDGaM0P6d8

[12] POV video part 9 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBsKmyhpvpc

[13] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/olly_tippett_on_his_first_ascent_el_capitans_newest_route-16669