Mountain 4 (1969) | Magazine

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Ken Wilson writing in the editorial:

This month we are publishing our second major feature on an important international climbing area. The first, on Patagonia (Mountain Craft 81), was warmly received by our readers and we feel that a detailed analysis of the Yosemite Valley - America's leading rock-climbing centre - will also command wide interest.

Over the past decade, as Yosemite climbers have tackled and solved the problems presented by the valley's flanking walls, the magnitude of their achievements and the impeccable quality of their climbs have gradually become known throughout the climbing world.

In Europe, the first demonstration of the high standards of Yosemite free and artificial climbing came with the ascents of the South Face of the Aig. du Fou and the direct lines on the West Face of the Petits Dru. These climbs also concentrated European attention on the American artificial techniques and the advanced design of their pitons, which rapidly rendered obsolete many of the prevailing European artificial concepts.

The story since then is well known - a veritable equipment revolution - and with it a sudden awareness of the Americans' superior knowledge. A European alternative to Yosemite was sought and Romsdal, an area previously neglected, now claims a growing popularity.

British and French climbers visited Yosemite and repeated some of the big routes; they returned with a great respect for the valley's climbs and the skill of its climbers. The recent achievement; on Strone Ulladale and St John's Head clearly show that Yosemite influence is now beginning to bite deep into British climbing.

It has been suggested that Yosemite's importance lies not in its own remarkable climbs but in the application of its techniques to outstanding rock problems throughout the world. Nevertheless, climbers with more modest aims will also be affected by American equipment and attitudes. This detailed appraisal of Yosemite climbing will therefore serve to focus attention on developments that are increasingly influencing all of us.