The Prophet | E9/8b Multi-pitch

First ascent. With Jason Pickles.

Belayed by Jason Pickles who seconded most of the route except the crux A1 beauty pitch and the Devil's Dyno. Pickles was also instrumental in early attempts on the line, leading many hard and dangerous pitches while the pair made early ground up attempts on the line.

I attempted the crux A1 beauty pitch, as hard as anything I ever climbed. Solid E9 7a, we called it 5.13d R but I think 5.14a R is fair.

After repeatedly failing, including once from the jugs at the top, with homebound flights the very next day we were all but defeated.

On the absolute last try, in the midday sun against all odds, I somehow connected with a force beyond myself and did it.

I don't think I'll ever come closer to the edge and walk away victorious. Those experiences are the best. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpcyocjh5l/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/leo-houlding-interview-after-the-prophet-on-el-capitan.html

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/leo_houlding_frees_the_prophet_-_el_capitan-58588

[4] http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-102710

[5] Leo discussing the successful ascent of the crux pitch with Steven Dimmitt on The Nugget https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnQw2w5R4eo