26 recorded ascents.
Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Warren Harding | Aid | worked | 1958 | |
First ascent.
A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route. Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team. |
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Lynn Hill | Lead | worked | Sep 1993 | |
First ascent.
A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.
Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a! References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273 [2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723 [3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363 [4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706 [5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097 |
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Chuck Pratt | Aid | worked | 1960 | |
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Tom Frost.
The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days. |
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Royal Robbins | Aid | worked | 1960 | |
Second ascent. With Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.
The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days. |
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Joe Fitschen | Aid | worked | 1960 | |
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.
The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days. |
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Tom Frost | Aid | worked | 1960 | |
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Chuck Pratt.
The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days. |
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Billy Westbay | Aid | worked | 1975 | |
With John Long and Jim Bridwell. 17hrs 45mins.
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required. Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1] References[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/ |
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Jim Bridwell | Aid | worked | 1975 | |
With John Long and Billy Westbay. 17hrs 45mins.
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required. Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1] References[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/ |
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John Long | Aid | worked | 1975 | |
With Billy Westbay and Jim Bridwell. 17hrs 45mins.
The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required. Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1] References[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/ |
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John Bachar | Aid | worked | 1978 | |
15hrs 00mins.
A speed record. |
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John Bachar | Aid | repeat | 1986 | |
With Peter Croft. 10hrs 05mins.
Another speed record. |
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Peter Croft | Aid | worked | 1986 | |
With John Bachar. 10hrs 05mins.
A speed record. |
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Lynn Hill | Lead | worked | Between 19th Sep 1994 and 20th Sep 1994 | |
Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent. |
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Beth Rodden | Lead | worked | 2005 | |
With Tommy Caldwell.
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Tommy Caldwell | Lead | worked | 2005 | |
With Beth Rodden.
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Jorg Verhoeven | Lead | worked | 2014 | |
References |
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Connor Herson | Lead | worked | 2018 | |
Alex Honnold | Simul | worked | 6th Jun 2018 | |
Tommy Caldwell | Simul | worked | 6th Jun 2018 | |
Keita Kurakami | Rope Solo | worked | Nov 2018 | |
References |
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Jacopo Larcher | Lead | worked | 2019 | |
With Barbara Zangerl.
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Barbara Zangerl | Lead | worked | 2019 | |
With Jacopo Larcher.
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Sébastien Berthe | Lead | ground up | 2019 | |
Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt. |
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Alex Waterhouse | Lead | worked | 10th Nov 2023 | |
Billy Ridal | Lead | worked | 10th Nov 2023 | |
Hannes Puman | Lead | worked | Dec 2024 | |
With Jamie Lowther.
Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch The Schnaz 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux Changing Corners 14a pitch.
References |