The Nose | 8b+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan

31 pitches. Topos: PlanetMountain.

Pics + Vids

Lynn Hill
Added at 16:05 on 17 May 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Lynn Hill
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 14 January 2022
Jorg Verhoeven
Added at 09:01 on 01 January 2022
Tommy Caldwell
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2021
Alex Honnold
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2021

Ascents

13 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Warren Harding Aid (Worked) November 1957

A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.

Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.

Lynn Hill Lead (Worked) September 1993

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

Billy Westbay Aid (Worked) 1975
John Long Aid (Worked) 1975
Jim Bridwell Aid (Worked) 1975

The first ascent of the Nose in a day with a time of 17:45. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

John Bachar Aid (Worked) 1978

John set a speed record at the time of 15 hours.

Peter Croft Aid (Worked) 1986

In 10:05, a speed record at the time. With John Bachar.

John Bachar Aid (Repeat) 1986

Another speed record of 10:05 with Peter Croft.

Beth Rodden Lead (Worked) 2005

Third free ascent.

Jorg Verhoeven Lead (Worked) 2014

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE

Alex Honnold Simul (Worked) 6th June 2018

A new speed record of 1:58:07.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

Tommy Caldwell Simul (Worked) 6th June 2018

A new speed record of 1:58:07.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

Keita Kurakami Rope Solo (Worked) November 2018

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/keita-kurakami-climbs-the-nose-el-capitan-free-rope-solo.html