The Nose | 8b+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan

UKClimbing.com

31 pitches. Topos: PlanetMountain.
Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Lynn Hill
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Added at 17:01 on 14 January 2022
Lynn Hill
Added at 20:02 on 28 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 16:05 on 17 May 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Lynn Hill
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Jorg Verhoeven
Added at 09:01 on 01 January 2022
Alex Honnold
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2021
Tommy Caldwell
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2021
Tommy Caldwell
Added at 06:05 on 25 May 2021
Billy Ridal
Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2023
Alex Waterhouse
Added at 09:11 on 15 November 2023
Billy Ridal
Added at 20:11 on 29 November 2023
Alex Waterhouse
Added at 20:11 on 29 November 2023

Ascents

25 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Warren Harding Aid | worked 1958
First ascent.

A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.

Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.

Lynn Hill Lead | worked Sep 1993
First ascent.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

Royal Robbins Aid | worked 1960
Second ascent. With Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Joe Fitschen Aid | worked 1960
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Chuck Pratt Aid | worked 1960
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Tom Frost.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Tom Frost Aid | worked 1960
Second ascent. With Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Chuck Pratt.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

John Long Aid | worked 1975
With Billy Westbay and Jim Bridwell. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Jim Bridwell Aid | worked 1975
With John Long and Billy Westbay. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Billy Westbay Aid | worked 1975
With John Long and Jim Bridwell. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

John Bachar Aid | worked 1978
15hrs 00mins.

A speed record.

John Bachar Aid | repeat 1986
With Peter Croft. 10hrs 05mins.

Another speed record.

Peter Croft Aid | worked 1986
With John Bachar. 10hrs 05mins.

A speed record.

Lynn Hill Lead | worked Between 19th Sep 1994 and 20th Sep 1994

Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent.

Tommy Caldwell Lead | worked 2005
With Beth Rodden.
Beth Rodden Lead | worked 2005
Jorg Verhoeven Lead | worked 2014
Connor Herson Lead | worked 2018
Tommy Caldwell Simul | worked 6th Jun 2018
With Alex Honnold. 01hrs 58mins.

A new speed record.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

Alex Honnold Simul | worked 6th Jun 2018
Keita Kurakami Rope Solo | worked Nov 2018
Jacopo Larcher Lead | worked 2019
Barbara Zangerl Lead | worked 2019
Sébastien Berthe Lead | ground up 2019

Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt.

Billy Ridal Lead | worked 10th Nov 2023
Alex Waterhouse Lead | worked 10th Nov 2023