The Nose | 8b+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan

More

• Change Log

First ascent.

A huge multi-season ascent which involved numerous partners, lots of fixed gear and an incredible final 15 hour push through the night to complete the route.

Initially the team compromised Harding, Mark Powell and Bill Feuerer but when work resumed on the route in the autumn season Powell and Feuerer dropped out while Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, and Rich Calderwood joined the main team.

[Chris Jones, interviewing] The first ascent of the South Buttress of El Cap - the Nose - has been described, but is it true that you started this because you had been beaten by Robbins and party on the North Face of Half Dome?

Yes, it is true. The previous Fall, I was a member of the party that made the first serious attempt on the North West Face of Half Dome. I was not particularly impressed with the leader of this group (not Robbins), so I decided to form a party of my own. This turned out to be a truly splendid team: Powell, Harding, Dolt. However, when we reached the Valley in mid-June, we were taken aback and rather disgruntled to find that an excellent team of climbers, now led by Royal Robbins, had the matter of Half Dome North West Face well in hand.

In a fit of egotistical pique, we grumbled around the Valley for a couple of days, trying to figure out what to do. The solution was quite simple: any climb less than Half Dome was beneath us; only a greater climb would do 1 Our objective was rather obvious!

It soon became obvious, too, that we were getting in over our heads with the difficulties presented by El Cap. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 9 (1970), page 16

Second ascent. With Tom Frost, Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Second ascent. With Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost and Joe Fitschen.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Second ascent. With Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost and Royal Robbins.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

Second ascent. With Chuck Pratt, Royal Robbins and Joe Fitschen.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.

With Billy Westbay and John Long. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

With Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

With Jim Bridwell and John Long. 17hrs 45mins.

The first ascent of the Nose in a day. A significant improvement on the multi-day ascents that had previously been required.

Some gear was pre-placed on the first few pitches to help them climb faster in the dark. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/

15hrs 00mins.

A speed record.

With Peter Croft. 10hrs 05mins.

Another speed record.

With John Bachar. 10hrs 05mins.

A speed record.

First ascent.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent.

With Beth Rodden.

With Tommy Caldwell.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE

With Tommy Caldwell. 01hrs 58mins.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

With Alex Honnold. 01hrs 58mins.

A new speed record.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdOzbM_7GMI

Calum Coldwell-Story:

Me and Jake arrived at the belay below the Great Roof in Nov 2018 to see a 8mm single rope and small battered haul bag with approach shoes and a water bottle hanging off it....I looked up to see Keita bridging at the rest before traversing right into the crux. Initially i assumed he was a solo aid climber who had just climbed the 5.11 intro to the Great Roof but then he started questing right.. the power screams were out, the battle commenced. Me and Jake yelled encouragement and as he hit the finishing jug sidepull and rocked onto the belay we all OOOOOOOOO'ed the Yosemite monkey call in celebration!! Later that evening on Camp 5 Keita rolled out a tiny bit of foam mat, crossed his arms and fell asleep. He freed the Nose a couple of days later. We called him the Sensei! [2]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/keita-kurakami-climbs-the-nose-el-capitan-free-rope-solo.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/a_tribute_to_late_japanese_climber_keita_kurakami-776548?v=1#x9981431

With Jacopo Larcher.

Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt.

With Barbara Zangerl.

With Alex Waterhouse.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4oqfnxQ714

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4dKWKNXjgHSbHQuVtjhvCb?si=_dV28VKSQ7GB_D-Y5v3ANQ

With Billy Ridal.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4oqfnxQ714

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4dKWKNXjgHSbHQuVtjhvCb?si=_dV28VKSQ7GB_D-Y5v3ANQ

With Jamie Lowther.

Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch The Schnaz 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux Changing Corners 14a pitch.

Ivo Ninov gave me a history lesson of the climbing in Yosemite and told gave me some insights of the Schnaz. Actually the name is misinterpretation, it comes from Dave Shultz who together with Brooke Sandahl prepared the Nose for free climbing in the early 90s. Lynn tried both variations but went for changing corners because the other has quite reachy moves. Around 98 when Scott Burke was training to free the nose he climbed the pitch but he also broke a crucial hold and couldn’t find a solution after. When Ivo came 2005 he put up another bolt and tried it with Thomas Huber and Matt Wilder, they found a method that was possible and all three freed the pitch. Big respect to everyone who was involved and made The Nose the phenomenal climb it is today! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/

Soline aided some sections of the route.

References

[1] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/soline-kentzel-escala-the-nose-en-solitario-autoasegurandose/