The Nose | 8b+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan

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First ascent.

A breakthrough free ascent of this iconic aid route. Lynn later went on to make the first in a day free ascent.

The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Initially Lynn suggested a grade of 13b or 8a!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/884132364986273

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/882411198491723

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/871458132920363

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/455131411219706

[5] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/336804179719097

[6] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4rlZGr7RN/

[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdRSnl8

Lynn started climbing at 10pm on the 19th September and finished climbing around 9pm on the 20th September, making it the first sub-24hr free ascent.

With Beth Rodden.

With Tommy Caldwell.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE

Calum Coldwell-Story:

Me and Jake arrived at the belay below the Great Roof in Nov 2018 to see a 8mm single rope and small battered haul bag with approach shoes and a water bottle hanging off it....I looked up to see Keita bridging at the rest before traversing right into the crux. Initially i assumed he was a solo aid climber who had just climbed the 5.11 intro to the Great Roof but then he started questing right.. the power screams were out, the battle commenced. Me and Jake yelled encouragement and as he hit the finishing jug sidepull and rocked onto the belay we all OOOOOOOOO'ed the Yosemite monkey call in celebration!! Later that evening on Camp 5 Keita rolled out a tiny bit of foam mat, crossed his arms and fell asleep. He freed the Nose a couple of days later. We called him the Sensei! [2]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/keita-kurakami-climbs-the-nose-el-capitan-free-rope-solo.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/a_tribute_to_late_japanese_climber_keita_kurakami-776548?v=1#x9981431

With Barbara Zangerl.

With Jacopo Larcher.

Notably Seb climbed the route ground up, whereas most ascentionists would abseil in from the top to work the hardest pitches (The Great Roof and Changing Corners) before going from the ground for an attempt.

With Alex Waterhouse.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4oqfnxQ714

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4dKWKNXjgHSbHQuVtjhvCb?si=_dV28VKSQ7GB_D-Y5v3ANQ

With Billy Ridal.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4oqfnxQ714

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4dKWKNXjgHSbHQuVtjhvCb?si=_dV28VKSQ7GB_D-Y5v3ANQ

With Jamie Lowther.

Importantly, Hannes climbed the route by a new variation pitch The Schnaz 5.13 / V9 which avoids what was the crux Changing Corners 14a pitch.

Ivo Ninov gave me a history lesson of the climbing in Yosemite and told gave me some insights of the Schnaz. Actually the name is misinterpretation, it comes from Dave Shultz who together with Brooke Sandahl prepared the Nose for free climbing in the early 90s. Lynn tried both variations but went for changing corners because the other has quite reachy moves. Around 98 when Scott Burke was training to free the nose he climbed the pitch but he also broke a crucial hold and couldn’t find a solution after. When Ivo came 2005 he put up another bolt and tried it with Thomas Huber and Matt Wilder, they found a method that was possible and all three freed the pitch. Big respect to everyone who was involved and made The Nose the phenomenal climb it is today! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDe-5suR5ii/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDpRcUGNsQ7/