Heart Route | E8/8a+ Trad climb on El Capitan

United States / California / Mariposa County

Quick Info

Grade E8 / 8a+
Type Trad climb
Crag El Capitan
Country United States 🇺🇸
Rock type Granite
History
Recorded ascents 7

Quick Info

Grade E8 / 8a+
Type Trad climb
Crag El Capitan
Country United States 🇺🇸
Rock type Granite
History
Recorded ascents 7
Free version of Heart Route (A4).

5.13c or 5.13b, V10.

A variation, Light Heart (5.13b/8a), avoids the crux dyno. on pitch 6 by climbing Freeblast or similar to the heart ledges.

Contributors
102 contributions since 9th July 2025.
2 contributions since 16th January 2026.

Pics + Vids

Loading pics and vids...

Ascents

7 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Gobright was able to free climb all the route bar the ~V10 dyno on pitch 6 aka The Dub Step.

First free ascent.
Third ascent. With Tommy Caldwell.
With Oliver Schmidt.

'Light Heart' version via the Muir-blast start avoiding the Dub Step dyno.

References

[1] https://kayakandclimb.blogspot.com/2023/10/free-heart-route.html

With Tobias Wolf.

'Light Heart' version avoiding Dub Step dyno on pitch 6.

With Tommy Caldwell.
Tommy Caldwell Lead | worked 5th-7th November 2024
With Connor Herson.