Royal Robbins

en.wikipedia.org

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 3rd February 1935
Age: 82 years old
Date of death: 14th March 2017
Notable Partnerships
Yvon Chouinard
Tom Frost
Chuck Pratt
Joe Fitschen

Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there.

Robbins was also very influential in terms of the climbing style and ethics he espoused. Many of the values he championed, such as minimising reliance on fixed ropes, minimising the use of bolts and climbing from the ground up remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. Together with Yvon Chouinard Robbins was an early proponent of the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.

In later life Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands which made climbing difficult. Because of this Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on white water kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further abroad.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374

[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.

[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.

[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.

[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A?

Contributors
19 contributions since 3rd June 2021.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 3rd February 1935
Date of death: 14th March 2017
Age: 82 years old
Notable Partnerships
Yvon Chouinard
Tom Frost
Chuck Pratt
Joe Fitschen

Royal Robbins was an extremely influential climber from the USA in the late 1950s and 1960s. He was part of a generation of climbers who established Yosemite as a world class climbing destination and made first ascents and repeats of many now-famous routes there.

Robbins was also very influential in terms of the climbing style and ethics he espoused. Many of the values he championed, such as minimising reliance on fixed ropes, minimising the use of bolts and climbing from the ground up remain core to what is considered good style in modern big wall climbing. Together with Yvon Chouinard Robbins was an early proponent of the use of chocks over pitons as a means of minimising damage to the rock.

In later life Robbins struggled with arthritis in his hands which made climbing difficult. Because of this Robbins focused his energy on his business ventures and, later, on white water kayaking. He made first descents of several rivers in the US and further abroad.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CU4qXc5J8i7/

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=6849687261751921&set=a.126453404075374

[3] Smart, D. (2023). Royal Robbins: The American Climber. United States: Mountaineers Books.

[4] Ament, P. (1998). Royal Robbins: Spirit of the Age. United States: Stackpole Books.

[5] Robbins, R. (2010). To Be Brave: My Life. United Kingdom: Pink Moment Productions.

[6] Robbins, R. (2010). Fail Falling. United States: Pink Moment Press.

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3ce65n5RTjNYnXYEBJAH1A?

Contributors
19 contributions since 3rd June 2021.

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Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Nose 8b+ Aid | worked 1960
Second ascent. With Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.

The second ascent, and first continuous ascent over 7 days.
Salathé Wall 8a+ Aid | worked 1961
First ascent. With Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost.
The Thimble 7a+ Lead | did not finish

I considered my greatest failure to be my efforts on the thimble. I could see that even if I worked on it forever I would never achieve it.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Human Fright E1 Lead Jun 1952
First ascent.
Regular Northwest Face HVS Aid | worked 1957
First ascent.

The first grade VI climb in North America.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade