Kevin Jorgeson

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Quick Info

Nationality: US
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Quick Info

Nationality: US
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

The Groove (E9)
Added at 07:03 on 07 March 2024
Gaia (E8)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:07 on 14 July 2022
The Fly (9a)
Added at 12:06 on 08 June 2022

Ascents

11 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2006 The Swarm 8B Boulder | worked 26th Nov 2006
2007 Ode to a Modern Man 8B+ Boulder | worked 24th Aug 2007
The Mandala SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked 14th Oct 2007
2008 Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 Lead | yo-yo 2008

References

[1] Ben Bransby adding some detail on the style of Kevin's ascent https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

Me and Pete Robins tried it ground up in the weeks before KJs [Kevin Jorgeson's] ascent. The first day we placed all the gear on lead but did fall off, and hence turn it into a yoyo style ascent (it was still really scary). Pete went home and I tried it a few more times (over the next 2 weeks). I abbed in (with eyes shut, honest, not that it matters!) and placed only the same gear in the flake for my subsequent visits. Obv this was pushing the boundaries of what might or might not count as ground up, but I was only doing it this way because that was how I wanted to try it, not to set any records. On my last visit I felt I had given it a good enough go in this style, fallen off a fair few times, so gave up. Kevin did join me on this session and had a few goes but didn't succeed. He didn't place any of the gear but used mine, which was essentially pre clipped and pre placed for him - like I say it was gear which had (kinda) been placed on lead, and not 10 perfect pieces placed from abb. He went back another day and did do the 'ground up' ascent - I think someone else abbed in for him and placed the gear, maybe more/better than what I had been using?

The Fly 9a Solo | worked 12th Apr 2008
The Promise E8 Lead | worked 28th Oct 2008
Second ascent.

Kevin found an easier sequence and used a couple of pads to improve the landing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/kevin_jorgeson_repeats_the_promise-45410

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/the_promise__-_kevins_account-45411

The Groove E9 Lead | worked Nov 2008

Kevin took a different line to the first ascent after the initial groove section, finishing up relatively easy climbing which avoids the second hard (though safe) sequence on the route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-OdxfCrXe4

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/11/kevin_jorgeson_on_the_groove_-_cratcliffe-45458

Gaia E8 Solo | worked Nov 2008
2009 Ambrosia 8A Boulder | worked 9th Jan 2009
First ascent.

Not really a boulder problem.

Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 27th Dec 2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014 The Dawn Wall 9a Lead | worked Between 27th Dec 2014 and 14th Jan 2015
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Dawn Wall 9a Lead | worked Between 27th Dec 2014 and 14th Jan 2015
The Fly 9a Solo | worked 12th Apr 2008 8B+
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ode to a Modern Man 8B+ Boulder | worked 24th Aug 2007
The Mandala SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked 14th Oct 2007
The Swarm 8B Boulder | worked 26th Nov 2006
Spectre 8B Boulder | worked 27th Dec 2009
Ambrosia 8A Boulder | worked 9th Jan 2009 8A+
First ascent.

Not really a boulder problem.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 Lead | yo-yo 2008

References

[1] Ben Bransby adding some detail on the style of Kevin's ascent https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

Me and Pete Robins tried it ground up in the weeks before KJs [Kevin Jorgeson's] ascent. The first day we placed all the gear on lead but did fall off, and hence turn it into a yoyo style ascent (it was still really scary). Pete went home and I tried it a few more times (over the next 2 weeks). I abbed in (with eyes shut, honest, not that it matters!) and placed only the same gear in the flake for my subsequent visits. Obv this was pushing the boundaries of what might or might not count as ground up, but I was only doing it this way because that was how I wanted to try it, not to set any records. On my last visit I felt I had given it a good enough go in this style, fallen off a fair few times, so gave up. Kevin did join me on this session and had a few goes but didn't succeed. He didn't place any of the gear but used mine, which was essentially pre clipped and pre placed for him - like I say it was gear which had (kinda) been placed on lead, and not 10 perfect pieces placed from abb. He went back another day and did do the 'ground up' ascent - I think someone else abbed in for him and placed the gear, maybe more/better than what I had been using?

The Groove E9 Lead | worked Nov 2008

Kevin took a different line to the first ascent after the initial groove section, finishing up relatively easy climbing which avoids the second hard (though safe) sequence on the route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-OdxfCrXe4

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/11/kevin_jorgeson_on_the_groove_-_cratcliffe-45458

The Promise E8 Lead | worked 28th Oct 2008 E8
Second ascent.

Kevin found an easier sequence and used a couple of pads to improve the landing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/kevin_jorgeson_repeats_the_promise-45410

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/the_promise__-_kevins_account-45411

Gaia E8 Solo | worked Nov 2008
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade