Originally climbed as an easier variation of Salathé Wall, avoiding the hard crack pitches on the headwall, Freerider is now one of the most popular free routes on the main face of El Capitan.
Todd Skinner and Paul Piana considered bypassing some of the hardest climbing on the Salathe via parts of what was to become Freerider but opted to follow the original aid line as closely as they were able to. The line was conceived by Alex Huber whilst working on his free ascent of the Salathé Wall in 1995. He rope-soloed the 4 pitch variation to the headwall that year but waited three years before climbing the whole route with his brother Thomas.
There are two common variations that make up the crux of the route, The Boulder Problem at around 7c+ sport or 7B/+ boulder or The Teflon Corner at around 7c sport. The boulder problem is short, technical and crimpy while the teflon corner features extremely technical smearing. While the rest of the route is seldom easy the other notable hard pitches are The Monster Offwidth and The Enduro Corner.
Dan McManus on The Monster Offwidth:
Left side in! The first time I climbed this pitch I had been told that it was crucial to climb it with a specific side in the crack, but I couldn’t remember which side. I guessed right side, I was wrong, but I did miraculously manage to chicken-wing my way up by the skin of my teeth. In doing so I removed the skin on my tricep which oozed for the next few days and made further offwidths very painful. [1]
[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2016/03/a-guide-to-freerider.html
[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800
18 successful ascents and 2 unsuccessful attempts recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alex Huber First ascent. With Thomas Huber. | Alternate Leads | worked | 13th Oct 1998 | |
|
In 15 hours 25 minutes. References[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800 |
|||
| Thomas Huber First ascent. With Alex Huber. | Alternate Leads | worked | 13th Oct 1998 | |
| Matt Childers With Brian McCray. | Alternate Leads | did not finish | 1999 | |
|
A very impressive gorund-up attempt, missing out on freeing the entire route by 2 hangs. References[1] https://alpinist.com/features/a-tribute-to-flyn-brian-mccray/ |
|||
| Brian McCray With Matt Childers. | Alternate Leads | did not finish | 1999 | |
|
A very impressive gorund-up attempt, missing out on freeing the entire route by 2 hangs. References[1] https://alpinist.com/features/a-tribute-to-flyn-brian-mccray/ |
|||
| Ivan Tresch With Ben Bransby. | Alternate Leads | worked | Oct 2002 | |
| Ben Bransby With Ivan Tresch. | Alternate Leads | worked | Oct 2002 | |
|
In a day. Ben and partner Ivan Tresch were caught being light-fingered in a local shop and were given a court date a couple of days later. Unsure how the court appearance might go, they decided to make a quick one day ascent before going to court in case their freedoms were more limited after the appearance in front of the law. [1] References |
|||
| Steph Davis First female ascent. | Lead | worked | 24th Apr 2004 | |
|
The second woman to free climb el cap after Lynn Hill's first ascent of The Nose. Exactly a month later Steph freed the entire route in a day. |
|||
| Cédric Lachat With Chloé Graftiaux. | Alternate Leads | worked | 2009 | |
|
By some definitions it could be argued that Cedric climbed the route first go, but there are some substantial caveats:
References[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/free-rider-virtually-onsighted/ |
|||
| Dan McManus | Alternate Leads | worked | 2014 | |
|
In 22 hours. |
|||
| Pete Whittaker | Lead | ground up | 2014 | |
|
By some definitions Pete flashed the entire route. However it is not clear cut:
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/10/freerider_flashed_by_pete_whittaker-69244 |
|||
| Jacob Cook | Lead | worked | 1st Jun 2015 | |
References[1] http://jacobclimbsthings.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/freerider.html |
|||
| Pete Whittaker | Rope Solo | worked | 2016 | |
| Calum Coldwell-Story | Lead | worked | Oct 2016 | |
|
1 move off the onsight!
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/el_capitan-8023/freerider-179703 |
|||
| Alex Honnold 03hrs 57mins. | Solo | worked | 3rd Jun 2017 | |
|
Via The Boulder Problem. Surely one of the wildest solo ascents ever. Honnold climbed some minor variations to the usual line of Freerider which he considered more secure for a soloist: a line on the right of the second Freeblast slab (pitch 6, no change in grade); a 5.10c pitch leaving Heart Ledge to avoid an insecure 5.11c friction move; and taking a lower traverse into a hand crack that widens to the Monster Offwidth to avoid a 5.12a undercling move (Pitch 18). This crack had previously been climbed by Bermuda Dunes. The two pitches Honnold considered the most challenging for a soloist were The Boulder Problem and the first Freeblast Slab (Pitch 5). These were unavoidable. References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BU5oSrWhFWW/ [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9xj6Kwv2-y/ [3] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214748/ |
|||
| Erik Grandelius | Alternate Leads | worked | May 2018 | |
| Amity Warme | Lead | worked | 10th Apr 2022 | |
| Jacopo Larcher With Barbara Zangerl. | Alternate Leads | ground up | Nov 2024 | |
|
Jacopo was tantalisingly close to the flash taking just one fall on the boulder problem pitch before redpointing the pitch successfully on his second attempt. [1] Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Jacopo and partner Barbara Zangerl swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [1] References |
|||
| Barbara Zangerl With Jacopo Larcher. | Alternate Leads | flash | Between 19th Nov 2024 and 22nd Nov 2024 | |
|
Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Babsi and partner Jacopo Larcher swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [3] While various others had come close, with this ascent Babsi became the first person to flash a free route on el cap. References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCuEYCatToS/ [2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/barbara-zangerl-flashes-freerider-on-el-capitan.html [4] https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-first-person-flash-el-capitan/ |
|||
| William Moss 22hrs 16mins. | Lead | flash | 20th May 2025 | |
|
His first route on El Cap! References[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/will-moss-becomes-first-person-to-flash-el-cap-in-a-day/ |
|||
| Buck Yedor | Lead | ground up | ||