Freerider | 7c+ Multi-pitch at El Capitan


30 pitches.

Originally climbed as an easier variation of Salathé Wall, avoiding the hard crack pitches on the headwall, Freerider is now one of the most popular free routes on El Capitan.

There are two common variations that make up the crux of the route, The Boulder Problem at around 7c+ sport or 7B/+ boulder or The Teflon Corner at around 7c sport. The boulder problem is short, technical and crimpy while the teflon corner features extremely technical smearing. While the rest of the route is seldom easy the other notable hard pitches are The Monster Offwidth and The Enduro Corner.

Dan McManus on The Monster Offwidth:

Left side in! The first time I climbed this pitch I had been told that it was crucial to climb it with a specific side in the crack, but I couldn’t remember which side. I guessed right side, I was wrong, but I did miraculously manage to chicken-wing my way up by the skin of my teeth. In doing so I removed the skin on my tricep which oozed for the next few days and made further offwidths very painful. [1]

References

[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2016/03/a-guide-to-freerider.html

Contributors
remus
30 contributions since 6th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

15 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Alex Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Rob Cook.
Thomas Huber Alternate Leads | worked 1998
First ascent. With Alex Huber.
Ivan Tresch Alternate Leads | worked Oct 2002
With Ben Bransby.
Ben Bransby Alternate Leads | worked Oct 2002
With Ivan Tresch.

In a day.

Ben and partner Ivan Tresch were caught being light-fingered in a local shop and were given a court date a couple of days later. Unsure how the court appearance might go, they decided to make a quick one day ascent before going to court in case their freedoms were more limited after the appearance in front of the law. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1o7RLJApyhQ2CEBAwVKzvz

Steph Davis Lead | worked 24th Apr 2004
First female ascent.

The second woman to free climb el cap after Lynn Hill's first ascent of The Nose.

Exactly a month later Steph freed the entire route in a day.

Dan McManus Alternate Leads | worked 2014

In 22 hours.

Pete Whittaker Lead | ground up 2014

By some definitions Pete flashed the entire route. However it is not clear cut:

  • After completing the first 7 pitches Pete rappelled to the ground for logisitical reasons
  • Pete fell on the boulder problem pitch, lowered to the belay and then climbed the teflon corner first go

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/10/freerider_flashed_by_pete_whittaker-69244

Jacob Cook Lead | worked 1st Jun 2015

All free over 6 days, 5 nights with Bron and Chris. 3 falls, one each on the boulder problem, the second enduro corner and the 12a traverse, all sent second try. The best route I've ever done by some margin!

References

[1] http://jacobclimbsthings.blogspot.co.uk/2015/06/freerider.html

Pete Whittaker Rope Solo | worked 2016
Calum Coldwell-Story Lead | worked Oct 2016

1 move off the onsight!

Fell on the last move of the 5.13a Boulder problem pitch.. and with that went the flash/onsite of the route. RP 2nd go. Every other pitch lead or seconded 1st go. The Monster Offwidth is unreal! What a beast!!! Tom Newberry pulled out all the stops dispite time pressure and fatigue to get it done as well! BRING ME MY COFFEE! [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/el_capitan-8023/freerider-179703

Alex Honnold Solo | worked 3rd Jun 2017
03hrs 57mins.

Via The Boulder Problem. Surely one of the wildest solo ascents ever.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BU5oSrWhFWW/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9xj6Kwv2-y/

Amity Warme Lead | worked 10th Apr 2022
Jacopo Larcher Alternate Leads | ground up Nov 2024
With Barbara Zangerl.

Jacopo was tantalisingly close to the flash taking just one fall on the boulder problem pitch before redpointing the pitch successfully on his second attempt. [1]

Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Jacopo and partner Barbara Zangerl swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/it-goes-again-boys-barbara-zangerl-interview-after-freerider-flash-el-cap.html

Barbara Zangerl Alternate Leads | flash Between 19th Nov 2024 and 22nd Nov 2024
With Jacopo Larcher.

Climbed via the boulder problem variation. Babsi and partner Jacopo Larcher swung leads on the easy pitches but both led all the hard pitches. [3]

While various others had come close, with this ascent Babsi became the first person to flash a free route on el cap.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCuEYCatToS/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/barbara-zangerl-flashes-freerider-on-el-capitan.html

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/it-goes-again-boys-barbara-zangerl-interview-after-freerider-flash-el-cap.html

[4] https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-first-person-flash-el-capitan/

Buck Yedor Lead | ground up