The Sloth | HVS Trad climb at The Roaches

United Kingdom / England / Staffordshire / Leek
UKClimbing.com

Allan Austin:

One startling development of this period, beginning with Whillans' lead of the Sloth, was the conquest of some of the great ceilings. These overhangs or nebs are characteristic of gritstone and most edges abound in them. Perhaps the way of future development lies here? The most impressive of all is the great barrier of the Roaches. A ten foot overhang stretching across the top of the Great Slab, this barrier is crossed in only one place by a green crack, the way of the Sloth. The Sloth, a route of fantastic exposure, must be one of the best and most spectacular routes on gritstone. Surprisingly, it is neither very difficult nor unusually strenuous; but it is an incredibly fierce lead and enjoys a unique and unrivalled status in gritstone climbing. [1]

References

[1] Climbers' Club Journal (1958) /library/7430/climbers-club-1958-journal

Contributors
11 contributions since 25th August 2022.

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

3 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Don Whillans Lead | onsight 1954
First ascent.

Joe repeated the climb for the cameras.

https://bbcrewind.co.uk/asset/600eb7b53a53aa002791fbac

Yes, this was my first visit to the Roaches and the first climb I did there, a few minutes after getting off the coach from Leeds.

This did not seem like poor protection at the time: what could be better than a number 3 hawser-laid sling over a block?! Remember, cams had not been invented at this time. Nor had belay devices - note that John Syrett is using the classic waist belay and belay gloves. John was a very bold leader, but also a fantastically solid second; absolutely nothing casual about his belaying. Notice his attention and just the right amount of slack in the rope.

Note the socks inside the EBs, and the waist belts; no leg loops. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=61347