Climbs

A Steve Wunsch project before Barber's impressive nuts-only protected onsight ascent.

References

[1] https://www.henrybarber.com/categories/media/media_1-1.php

[2] https://www.climbing.com/culture-climbing/henry-barber-interview

Iwagoya Boulder, Horai, Aichi, Japan

FRCC Scawfell Guide 1924:

The most arduous ascent in the Lake District; unexampled exposure; combined tactics and rope engineering essential at one point; not less than three climbers. Rubbers…The difficulties met with are so great that the expedition ranks amongst the world’s hardest. [1]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/100-years-of-central-buttress-scafell

[2] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2014/06/central-buttressnow-and-then.html

[3] https://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/simple-file-list/Journals/Journal-1914.pdf

The first 9a+ in Germany.

After making the first ascent with 2 pegs in place Dave Birkett placed a bolt just above the pegs. This was quickly chopped.

Bernard Newman:

It is difficult to understand the reasoning behind such a senseless act - I was always under the impression that a bold lead threw down a challenge to other climbers. If Mr Birkett's intention was to gain fame perhaps he has been successful.

Merely being a good climber is obviously not good enough these days... If, as we understand, he has been manipulated by others one can only feel sorry for him. Now that the precedent for bolting on mountain crags in the Lake District has been set, we can expect a rash of hard new sport climbs on Scafell and Dove Crag and anywhere else that protection requires a little thought and skill to place. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 12

El Corazón takes features originally aid climbed by Flight of the Albatross, Heart Route and Son of Heart linked by some new climbing. The name means The Heart in Spanish.