Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Zero Trad climb E7 6

Livesey's original line was slightly indirect, moving right and then back left at the top of the route at about E6. This was then (unintentionally!) straightened out by Andy Pollitt on his second ascent [1], [2].

References

[1] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 250

[2] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 412

4-Low Boulder problem 8C 5
Academia Trad climb E8 5
Ace of Spades Sport route 9a+ 5

8B to 7C+ to 7C+ with some ok rests in between.

Ajudicator Wall Trad climb E3 5
Aladdin Sport route 8c 5
Ali Bomaye Sport route 8c 5
Appointment with Death Trad climb E9 5
Art Nouveau Trad climb E6 5

Although given E6 it is now typically done above a pile of pads at a highball ~7A. The pad-less version is a scary prospect!

Astroman Trad climb E5 5
Attraverso il Pesce Trad climb E6 5

One of the most famous routes in the dolomites.

Babel Boulder problem 8C 5
Back Street Mime Artist Boulder problem 8A 5
Bélial Boulder problem 8B+ 5

Finish without the rib.

Beyond Sport route 9a+ 5
Bibliographie Sport route 9b+ 5

First bolted by Ethan Pringle who quickly abandoned it as too hard for him. It took Alex a lot of effort over multiple years to finally make the first ascent. Initially proposed at 9c it later settled at 9b+ after a relatively quick repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi.

Big Bang Sport route 9a 5

Jerry Moffatt had some early attempts on the route but gave up on the line.

Burden of Dreams Boulder problem 9A 5

The first 9A boulder problem in the world. Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent in October 2016 and the problem received significant attention from many of the strongest boulderers in the world (Toru Nakajima, Shawn Raboutou and Aidan Roberts to name a few) before Will Bosi made the second ascent in April 2023.

The problem was initially found by Marko Siivinen:

At first it looked like it might be possible so we started trying the moves... Pretty soon it was obvious it was a bit too hard for us 😄 So next time we took [Anton Johansson] with us, who was the strongest man alive at that time. He looked at the problem and touched the holds a bit and said: "well... It looks really good but it also looks like 9A"😂 So the only thing left to do was to take Nalle there and the rest is history. [1]

In an interesting twist, the problem has become somewhat famous for replicas being made of it. Aidan Roberts made a 3D scan of the holds and problem on his phone during a working visit to try the problem, he then 3D printed the holds and worked with Core Climbing to cast copies of the holds in resin. Due to the relatively flat, consistent angle of the problem it was then possible to mount the holds indoors and effectively train for the real thing using the replica. Notably, Will Bosi trained on the replica for several sessions to train for the problem, then having done all the moves on the replica he booked a trip to try the real thing and made rapid progress, doing all the moves in his first session and then making the second ascent after ~12 sessions on the real thing.

References

[1] Marko Siivinen on Instagram, commenting on discovering the problem in 2013. April 2023. https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/

Century Crack Trad climb E10 5

A very atypical route. Better described as 8c/14b offwidth.

Change Sport route 9b+ 5

The first 9b+ in the world.

< Page 21 >