Direquiem | E9/8b+ Trad climb at Dumbarton Rock

United Kingdom / Scotland / Dumbarton
UKClimbing.com | routes.smc.org.uk
See also Requiem and Rhapsody.

Sonnie describes Direquiem as "the true direct finish to Requiem" The line of Rhapsody, the UK's first E11 as climbed by Dave MacLeod, takes the path of most resistance (the hardest moves) up the Requiem headwall and is shaped like an inverted question mark - ¿ - where Direquiem goes direct (almost in a straight line) from the top of the Requiem crack to the top of the cliff

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/10/family_man_new_trad_8c_by_sonnie_trotter-69250

Contributors
TdG
14 contributions since 2nd January 2026.
8 contributions since 3rd July 2021.

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Ascents

2 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/9488139

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/direquiem_514a_r_trotter_stays_and_mcclure-44699

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnASw2av9Kw
Second ascent.

Sonnie Trotter’s original ascent was made with the protection pre-placed; I climbed it placing all the gear on lead. The same route and sequence, but a fairly different experience in this style. E9 6c (high end 8b+) felt about right.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dbvc6pBNoQj/