Sleepwalker | 8C+ Boulder problem at Black Velvet Canyon

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Back in the middle of November we made a trip to Red Rocks to escape the snow falling in California. I had a plan to try a very rad and HARD project in Black Velvet Canyon that was originally tried by @nalle_hukkataival. Initially I could not do a single move. But over the course of 11 days... with many moments of frustration I found myself on top of what could be the hardest boulder in the country.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIIffUMV8g

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs6DF_FBU5W/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs6GxAzlYr3/

Using a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionists. Nalle was unable to span directly to the thin slot, so instead he matched on the sloper with a marginal toe hook before bumping in to the slot.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BtZctGWniYy/

[2] https://youtu.be/iPZ1w7tjo_M?t=733

References

[1] https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/whiteside

[2] https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems#:~:text=Reply-,thomas%20moirarty,-April%2025%2C%202022

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B7zPaDap17g/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ql4XnjGclLw

[3] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/19c5qgd/comment/kixjpq4/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJWnAMFDVYO/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CLBPueOD4Nj/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CK5Vr3yjOix/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-Tw2HpbAaQ

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVHrY_vgBq/

[2] https://youtu.be/zbzTGtZ-zd8

Prior to this ascent Zander's hardest boulder was an 8B! However he did find some new beta which he suggested made it closer to 8C.

The new beta changes the crux sequence of the boulder from V14 or 15 into hard V13. This makes the breakdown of the climb V13 into V11.

As for the sit, it's really hard! I got so shutdown trying the moves on it yesterday. It's definitely harder the taller you are, so anyone who is tall enough to do the new beta will really struggle on the start, and vice versa. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyXN4XpLI6M/

[2] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/177fkti/comment/k4v8qc1/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKYyPs2PeVw

Notably Kai's hardest problem prior to climbing this was 8B so he skipped 2 grades.

I’m beyond words for this one. It has a big place in my heart cause I grew up in Vegas and watched Jimmy during the process of the fa on this boulder. I’m so psyched to finally be strong enough to put this one down.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0FEHjTv25k/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C06-2MWppnS/

[2] https://youtu.be/F8l8pvUpCLs?t=985

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C14yTwFudQk/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI_pY5h5Eo8

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR8xjoCPEKU

Will was close to climbing the problem on his second session, dropping it with his right hand in the slot and left hand on the sloper. He then did it on the first go of his third session.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2Xf6BpreZ5/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z44acjCBPMA

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDtIX0VyP7a/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDxSgdUSyQa/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKpVFlX6Aek

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qH1xcn82kjk

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reels/DPr2M6YCSNd/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRIQCLNkTr-/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DSapKcAklVt/