Pete Robins

UKClimbing.com

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8

Pete Robins is a rock climber best known for his prolific development around North Wales, in particular in opening a huge number of quality new problems and areas.

References

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] Profile from DMM, one of Pete's sponsors https://dmmwales.com/climbers/pete-robins

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8

Pete Robins is a rock climber best known for his prolific development around North Wales, in particular in opening a huge number of quality new problems and areas.

References

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] Profile from DMM, one of Pete's sponsors https://dmmwales.com/climbers/pete-robins

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Ropes of Maui (8A+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 13 December 2023
End of the Affair (E8)
Added at 17:12 on 20 December 2023
Gravediggers (E8)
Added at 08:01 on 14 January 2021
Isles of Wonder (8B, FA)
Added at 16:02 on 05 February 2021
Diamond Dogs (8c+, FA)
Added at 23:01 on 27 January 2021
Pump Up The Jam (8c, FA)
Added at 16:07 on 09 July 2021
Pump Up The Jam (8c, FA)
Added at 11:06 on 25 June 2021
Dark Energy (8c+, FA)
Added at 14:06 on 29 June 2021
Diamond Dogs (8c+, FA)
Added at 14:06 on 29 June 2021
The Promise (E8)
Added at 17:11 on 17 November 2022
Corinthian Groove (8b)
Added at 07:04 on 14 April 2022
The Heel Hook Look (8a)
Added at 14:07 on 08 July 2022

Ascents

31 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1998 One Chromosome's Missing E7 Lead | worked 1998
1999
2000
2001 Zero E7 Lead | onsight 2001

It was 2001, after the foot and mouth pandemic. My heart was set on Zero, an incredible line with a level of mystique surrounding it's difficulty and history. I set off confidently and climbed to a ring peg at ten meters. The rock was dirty and hard to read but I continued by increasingly tenuous climbing, with no more protection, until below the substance of the route: a slim open groove twenty meters above the ground. I had been here two summers before and, overwhelmed by the danger, managed to downclimb . This time Neil Dyer, my belayer, suggested abseiling down the line before I set off. I didn't watch, and his only comment was there was a runner right where you needed it. That was enough and there I was again. I couldn't see the runner but entered the groove hoping to find it after a move or two. I hadn't meant to commit myself, but almost immediately, I was stuck; my toes on lichenous smears and my fingers on sidepulls. I couldn't see the gear placement and started to panic - I was certain a slip would land me on the ground. 'Where the fuck is that runner Neil?' I was tiring rapidly - I realised I had to get a grip and press on without the protection. I blanked all outside thoughts and climbed, out of control, until I reached a better hold. With this new found security, I regained control of my mind and all it's fear. I was exhausted and shaking uncontrollably, facing a deck out from 25 meters: couldn't recover on the hold, couldn't swap fingers, but knew I had to get out of there, so climbed with conviction to the top. It bought to mind the tale of [John] Redhead and [Dave] Towse on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy). Towse talked and coaxed JR's tired arms to a crucial RP, and sanctuary, in the fading light, narrowly avoiding a horrific end. Through JR's eyes, Towse had been reckless and nearly killed his friend. 'You've let me down Dave, you bastard, you've let me down'. How little we care for our mate's lives when we say 'go for it!'. They walked away laughing from Margins of the Mind. I shouted down to a relieved belayer 'You've let me down Neil, you've let me down'. We both smiled nervously as I brought him up. [1]

References

[1] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 412

Piece Of Mind E6 Solo | ground up 2001
Art Nouveau E6 Solo | ground up 2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007 Spinal Crack E9 Lead | worked May 2007
2008 The New Slatesman 8b Lead | worked 25th Feb 2008
First ascent.

I tried it a bit last year when I wasn't climbing that well, and at that time it felt really hard - in fact I wasn't sure I could do it. This winter I've bouldered a lot, and that gave me the edge I needed. [1]

References

[1] Slate Historical Section

The Promise E8 Lead | ground up 7th Dec 2008
2009 Heart of Stone E7 Lead | onsight 2009
End of the Affair E8 Lead | flash 30th Jan 2009
Liquid Ambar 8c+ Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
2010 Infanticide 8c Lead | worked Jun 2010
Second ascent.
The Incredible Bulk 8B Boulder | worked Sep 2010
First ascent.
Slip of the Tongue E6 Lead | worked Nov 2010
First ascent.
2011 Dorsal Stream 8B Boulder | worked 2011
First ascent.
Megalopa 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Second ascent.
2012 Corinthian Groove 8b Lead | worked Jun 2012
Isles of Wonder 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2012
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/48944640

Diamond Dogs 8c+ Lead | worked Oct 2012
2013 Madame Allure 8B Boulder | worked 21st Mar 2013
First ascent.
Pump Up The Jam 8c Lead | worked Jun 2013
Dark Energy 8c+ Lead | worked Jul 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/aBdbUUzdvjg?t=2522

The Pink Panther 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2013
First ascent.
2014 Ropes of Maui 8A+ Boulder | worked 15th Jul 2014
The Pink Star 8c+ Lead | worked 9th Aug 2014
First ascent.
2015 Coeur de Lion E8 Lead | worked Apr 2015
2016 The Tide Is High (But I'm Holding On) 8a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 2016
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Diamond Dogs 8c+ Lead | worked Oct 2012
Dark Energy 8c+ Lead | worked Jul 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/aBdbUUzdvjg?t=2522

The Pink Star 8c+ Lead | worked 9th Aug 2014
First ascent.
Liquid Ambar 8c+ Lead | worked 25th Aug 2009
Megalopa 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Second ascent.
Sea of Tranquility 8c+ Lead | worked
Pump Up The Jam 8c Lead | worked Jun 2013
Infanticide 8c Lead | worked Jun 2010
Second ascent.
The Pink Panther 8b+ Lead | worked Aug 2013
First ascent.
The New Slatesman 8b Lead | worked 25th Feb 2008
First ascent.

I tried it a bit last year when I wasn't climbing that well, and at that time it felt really hard - in fact I wasn't sure I could do it. This winter I've bouldered a lot, and that gave me the edge I needed. [1]

References

[1] Slate Historical Section

Corinthian Groove 8b Lead | worked Jun 2012
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Silk Cut 8B+ Boulder | worked
The Incredible Bulk 8B Boulder | worked Sep 2010
First ascent.
Dorsal Stream 8B Boulder | worked 2011
First ascent.
Isles of Wonder 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2012
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/48944640

Madame Allure 8B Boulder | worked 21st Mar 2013
First ascent.
Ropes of Maui 8A+ Boulder | worked 15th Jul 2014 8B
Director's Cut 8A+ Boulder | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Spinal Crack E9 Lead | worked May 2007
The Promise E8 Lead | ground up 7th Dec 2008 E7
End of the Affair E8 Lead | flash 30th Jan 2009
Coeur de Lion E8 Lead | worked Apr 2015
Gravediggers E8 Lead | ground up
One Chromosome's Missing E7 Lead | worked 1998
Zero E7 Lead | onsight 2001

It was 2001, after the foot and mouth pandemic. My heart was set on Zero, an incredible line with a level of mystique surrounding it's difficulty and history. I set off confidently and climbed to a ring peg at ten meters. The rock was dirty and hard to read but I continued by increasingly tenuous climbing, with no more protection, until below the substance of the route: a slim open groove twenty meters above the ground. I had been here two summers before and, overwhelmed by the danger, managed to downclimb . This time Neil Dyer, my belayer, suggested abseiling down the line before I set off. I didn't watch, and his only comment was there was a runner right where you needed it. That was enough and there I was again. I couldn't see the runner but entered the groove hoping to find it after a move or two. I hadn't meant to commit myself, but almost immediately, I was stuck; my toes on lichenous smears and my fingers on sidepulls. I couldn't see the gear placement and started to panic - I was certain a slip would land me on the ground. 'Where the fuck is that runner Neil?' I was tiring rapidly - I realised I had to get a grip and press on without the protection. I blanked all outside thoughts and climbed, out of control, until I reached a better hold. With this new found security, I regained control of my mind and all it's fear. I was exhausted and shaking uncontrollably, facing a deck out from 25 meters: couldn't recover on the hold, couldn't swap fingers, but knew I had to get out of there, so climbed with conviction to the top. It bought to mind the tale of [John] Redhead and [Dave] Towse on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy). Towse talked and coaxed JR's tired arms to a crucial RP, and sanctuary, in the fading light, narrowly avoiding a horrific end. Through JR's eyes, Towse had been reckless and nearly killed his friend. 'You've let me down Dave, you bastard, you've let me down'. How little we care for our mate's lives when we say 'go for it!'. They walked away laughing from Margins of the Mind. I shouted down to a relieved belayer 'You've let me down Neil, you've let me down'. We both smiled nervously as I brought him up. [1]

References

[1] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 412

Heart of Stone E7 Lead | onsight 2009
Slip of the Tongue E6 Lead | worked Nov 2010
First ascent.
Piece Of Mind E6 Solo | ground up 2001
Art Nouveau E6 Solo | ground up 2001
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Tide Is High (But I'm Holding On) 8a+ Deep Water Solo | worked 2016
First ascent.
The Heel Hook Look 8a Deep Water Solo | worked