Climbs

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-dreamcatcher/

5D in the Japanese bouldering grading system.

The first 8c+ in the USA.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/30qPube60E0HHtsSacKlHF?

One of the eight ‘last great problem’ projects listed in the Derwent Grit guide. [1]

Jerry Moffatt did all the moves, Johnny Dawes top roped it in a oner, Ron Fawcett was hovering, but it was Andy Pollitt who tied into the sharp end, jumped through the crux and wobbled through to the top – narrowly avoiding a disastrous fall when he slipped on the final sloping ledges.

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollitt and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. [2]

The grade of a given ascent depends on the particular gear placements used. The first ascent and early repeats used a peg in a slot high on the left. Later repeats used a cam in a good slot at half height, though this requires a traverse to access. Some people have combined the cam and the pegs, some people have used neither!

References

[1] The others were Dharma, Gaia, End of the Affair, Kaluza Klein, Soul Doubt, The Screaming Dream and The Groove.

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/ryan_pasquill_flashes_knockin_on_heavens_door-58563

Originally put up as 8B+, the consensus seems to have shifted to 8B.

The 'Mona Lisa of bouldering', according to Niccolò Ceria, this stunning arête is one of the quintessential problems of Fontainebleau.

Jacky Godoffe and Marc le Menestrel vied for the first ascent:

Who, Jacky or Marc, conquered the boulder first? In a spirit of brotherhood, both climbers blur the lines, each valuing the other’s effort. That day, they decided to share the first ascent, thus linking their names to the story of the boulder they would together call ‘Partage’. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C09aKQQtBaT/

Alex Megos's contribution to the legendary School 50. A modern classic.

Named after John Allen, a prolific force in the Peak District, who sadly died shortly before the first ascent.

Around 2019 some pebbles broke on the crux holds making the problem slightly harder.

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

A minor variation avoiding the jug and going straight to the top at ~8A called Fight Club has been climbed. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 95, page 19