Climbs

Previously called the Black 90 project a reference to Jade which was called the Green 45 project before it was climbed.

Lou Ferrino in to Trigger Cut.

Previously considered 8B until new knee bar beta lowered the grade.

The first proposed 8C, it was later downgraded to 8B+ when Dave Graham found a heel hook. There were also suggestions of hold improvement. Around November 2009 the crux pinch broke off making the problem harder. Dreamtime is now considered 8C again.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-a-dream-which-vanished-for-a-second-only.html

A new sequence with kneebars has significantly reduced the difficulty compared to the original sequence.

Originally given 8C+ but later a downgrade to 8C was suggested by the FA Paul Robinson.

Daniel Woods offered this iconic description:

Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark's tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.

Allegedly conceptualised by John Yablonski whilst under the influence of LSD. Named after the Jimi Hendrix song as it was considered as unlikely as lightning striking at midnight and for the lightning bolt shaped hold.

References

[1] https://kletterszene.com/stories/the-classics-boulder-midnight-lightning/

Originally given 9a, consensus is around 8c/+.

Initially given 9a which would have made Adam Ondra's 2012 ascent the first onsight of the grade. However Adam felt the route was more 8c+ and Daniel Woods, who flashed the route on the same day, agreed.

5.13c/8b, and likely E9, if the headwall is climbed in a single pitch.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/culture/climbing-style-el-capitan/

[2] Details of the incremental freeing of the route https://web.archive.org/web/20170213064201/[http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe](http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#salathe)