Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Midnight Lightning Boulder problem 7B 16

Allegedly conceptualised by John Yablonski whilst under the influence of LSD. Named after the Jimi Hendrix song as it was considered as unlikely as lightning striking at midnight.

References

[1] https://kletterszene.com/stories/the-classics-boulder-midnight-lightning/
Pure Imagination Sport route 8c+ 16

Initially given 9a which would have made Adam Ondra's 2012 ascent the first onsight of the grade. However Adam felt the route was more 8c+ and Daniel Woods, who flashed the route on the same day, agreed.
Spectre Boulder problem 8B 16
The Nest Boulder problem 8C 16
The Phoenix Boulder problem 8B+ 16
Belly Full of Bad Berries Trad climb E8 15
Brad Pit Boulder problem 7C 15

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

A minor variation avoiding the jug and going straight to the top at ~8A called Fight Club has been climbed. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 95, page 19
Divided Years Trad climb E9 15
Evolution Sport route 8c+ 15
Guest List Boulder problem 8B 15
Isla de Encanta Boulder problem 8B 15
Kaa'bah Sport route 8c+ 15
Kintsugi Boulder problem 8B+ 15
Louis Armstrong Boulder problem 8A+ 15

A new sequence with kneebars has significantly reduced the difficulty compared to the original sequence.
Make it Funky Sport route 8c 15
Muy Caliente! Trad climb E9 15
Nordic Flower Sport route 8c 15

Originally given 9a, consensus is around 8c/+.
Radja Boulder problem 8B+ 15

Considered to be one of the first 8B+s in the world.
Supercool Sport route 8a+ 15
The Angel's Share Boulder problem 7C 15

Originally climbed without pads at E8. As with other lines on this bloc it utilises a large carved runnel to get established on the base of the slab. The runnel is believed to be a historical 'drip edge detail' for a dwelling or shelter that once stood under the roof.

Johnny Dawes' original line climbed the centre of the slab. He has since said this was worth Font 8A. [2]

1996 Chatsworth guide description:

The Angel's Share 7m, E8 7a

A contender for the hardest route in the area. From the gutter, climb the blank-looking slab directly up its centre with great confidence and total disbelief! Considering the length of this route, the grade 'says' it all.

In 1998 the centre line lost a pebble. Tom de Gay:

I believe JD went further left, but there used to be a handy micro-pebble which I unfortunately removed whilst soloing it, with my right hand on the slopey top, to the left of the seam. c.1998 [1]

Subsequent ascensionists have taken lines further right, where the slab is slightly less steep, but the temptation to reach for the arete of Velvet Silence is greater. Dawes has top-roped this line no-handed. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C53smFWt6jZ/?img_index=1

[2] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=475

[3] Correspondence, October 2025.

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