Climbs

So called because, while working the line, Jerry Moffatt proclaimed

only a true master could solo it onsight. [1]

Ron Fawcett then nipped in while Jerry was napping to snatch the first ascent of this iconic line.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

Estado Crítico is notable for being the first ever 9a to be onsighted after Alex Megos climbed it in March 2012.

Although Ramón Julián Puigblanque suggested 9a when he made the first ascent it later settled to around 8c+/9a after several repeats (most notably a third go ascent from Adam Ondra and a second go ascent from Patxi Usobiaga). However around 2010 a hold broke and after reclimbing the route while working Golpe de Estado Adam suggested 9a was appropriate. Since then the grade has settled at 9a.

The name comes from the Yiddish word for Insane.

This has been upgraded in recent guides yet no holds have broken since the FA and an easier sequence than Mark Leach's original nails method on the top crux was found. It has to be questioned why it went up from its original grade of 8b+?

An old project from Chris Sharma and Dave Graham, features in dosage (vol 4?)

A School Room classic, set by the prime Malcolm Smith