Climbs

So called because, while working the line, Jerry Moffatt proclaimed

only a true master could solo it onsight. [1]

Jerry was preparing for a solo ascent. Ron Fawcett found that an Edelrid Amigo [2,3] sliding nut fitted the shotholes and promptly led the route after minimal inspection.

In c.2010s a marginal slider placement was discovered in the first part of the route, taking some of the sting out of the solo to the shot holes. Around 2024/2025 someone took a fall onto the slider and blew the placement out in the process.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=416863

[3] https://needs-needlesports-gob2b.b-cdn.net/imagecache/8dae6b69-d110-410b-890c-aaf700cdd554/NutsStory510_300x198.jpg

Kilnsey's first 8c. In 2024 a hold came off on the upper section making the route a little harder.

An old project from Chris Sharma and Dave Graham, features in dosage (vol 4?)

Immortalised in the 1994 film One Summer, Superman was one of the hardest problems around at the time of its first ascent, c.1989. The problem is somewhat eliminate; an easier version using all the holds is known as Superwoman.

It was originally graded 8A+, at least according to Jerry's autobiography, though was given 8B in One Summer. After the left hand sidepull broke in c.2004 it was reascended by Tim Clifford, apparently also at 8A+; this version was for a while known as Superman II. It's now considered 8B.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2Ydq78HiAujHdEy0t4hp1R?

Estado Crítico is notable for being the first ever 9a to be onsighted after Alex Megos climbed it in March 2012.

Although Ramón Julián Puigblanque suggested 9a when he made the first ascent it later settled to around 8c+/9a after several repeats (most notably a third go ascent from Adam Ondra and a second go ascent from Patxi Usobiaga). However around 2010 a hold broke and after reclimbing the route while working Golpe de Estado Adam suggested 9a was appropriate. Since then the grade has settled at 9a.

8B/+.

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

Originally 8A, upgraded to 8A+ after holds were chipped off in June 2001.

Has also been done as a static stand start: Karma (départ statique).

Sleepwalker is a boulder problem in Red Rocks in the USA. Nalle Hukkataival first cleaned and tried the line, and was then joined by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods in trying it. Jimmy Webb made the first ascent, shortly followed by Daniel Woods. After a prolonged battle with skin and conditions Nalle was able to make the third ascent.

It has become one of the most popular hard boulders in the world, in part due to relatively reliable conditions and ease of access, with 15 ascents at the time of writing.

Ravioli Biceps:

I was at Wet Dream and Dave Graham was there, and he was walking around trying some stuff and I'd walked by Sleepwalker hundreds of times. He walks by, he looks at it a bit, some chalk real quick...e looks at it and he's like "This is the next 8C in America."...It's great that it came to fruition in a big way. [1]

Originally put up at 8C+, opinion is now moving closer to 8C. There is some speculation that holds, particularly the slot, may have improved over time due to erosion of the rock.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DNJG0LNOKZb/

Originally climbed as an easier variation of Salathé Wall, avoiding the hard crack pitches on the headwall, Freerider is now one of the most popular free routes on the main face of El Capitan.

Todd Skinner and Paul Piana considered bypassing some of the hardest climbing on the Salathe via parts of what was to become Freerider but opted to follow the original aid line as closely as they were able to. The line was conceived by Alex Huber whilst working on his free ascent of the Salathé Wall in 1995. He rope-soloed the 4 pitch variation to the headwall that year but waited three years before climbing the whole route with his brother Thomas.

There are two common variations that make up the crux of the route, The Boulder Problem at around 7c+ sport or 7B/+ boulder or The Teflon Corner at around 7c sport. The boulder problem is short, technical and crimpy while the teflon corner features extremely technical smearing. While the rest of the route is seldom easy the other notable hard pitches are The Monster Offwidth and The Enduro Corner.

Dan McManus on The Monster Offwidth:

Left side in! The first time I climbed this pitch I had been told that it was crucial to climb it with a specific side in the crack, but I couldn’t remember which side. I guessed right side, I was wrong, but I did miraculously manage to chicken-wing my way up by the skin of my teeth. In doing so I removed the skin on my tricep which oozed for the next few days and made further offwidths very painful. [1]

References

[1] https://danmcmanus.blogspot.com/2016/03/a-guide-to-freerider.html

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800