Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
We Can Build You Boulder problem 8B 20
Direct North Boulder problem 8B+ 19
Midnight Express Boulder problem 8B+ 19
Mind to Motion Boulder problem 8B+ 19
Paint it Black Boulder problem 8C 19
Practice of the Wild Boulder problem 8B+ 19
Steppenwolf Boulder problem 8B 19
Austrian Oak Sport route 8b 18
Biographie Sport route 9a+ 18

Bolted in 1988 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille [1]. Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

End of the Affair Trad climb E8 18
Le Voyage Trad climb E10 18

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-les-voillage-faurmes-la-jenaice-aka-le-voyage/

Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Sport route 8b+ 18

Originally given E8.

Show Your Scars Boulder problem 8B+ 18
Isles of Wonder Boulder problem 8B 17
Jade Boulder problem 8B+ 17

Previously a Dave Graham project before Daniel Woods made the first ascent in 2007.

Just Do It Sport route 8c+ 17

The first 8c+ in the USA. Bolted by Alan Watts in 1989.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/30qPube60E0HHtsSacKlHF?

La Rambla Extension Sport route 9a+ 17

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Rambla_(climb)

Off the Wagon Boulder problem 8B+ 17

An old project from Chris Sharma and Dave Graham, features in dosage (vol 4?)

Predator Sport route 8b 17
Strawberries Trad climb E7 17

Known as Peaches before Ron Fawcett made the first ascent in 1980, due to its proximity to the route Cream (peaches and cream, strawberries and cream etc.).

In other trivia, the route was featured on the cover of the 1978 Tremadog and the Moelwyns Climbers Club guidebook making it a rare example of an unclimbed route on the cover of a guide. [2][3]

References

[1] Jack Geldard on the history of the route https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/strawberries_-_a_british_on_sight-1117

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411731

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=411732

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