Ben Moon

Instagram.com | UKClimbing.com | ifsc.results.info | en.wikipedia.org | moonclimbing.com

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 13th June 1966
Age: 59 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a+
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Malcolm Smith
Contemporaries
Fred Nicole
Klem Loskot
Marc le Menestrel
Antoine Le Menestrel
Jean-Baptiste Tribout

Ben pushed the cutting edge of sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s as well as establishing hard boulder problems in the early 2000s. He made many notable ascents in the UK including Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, one of the earliest examples of a pure sport route in the UK (previously many routes were climbed in a sport style but relied on old aid gear. Ben equipped Statement with bolts specifically to free climb it).

1980s

Ben established or repeated many of the hardest sport routes in the world at the time, most notably in the UK and the France. Agincourt at Buoux, first climbed by Ben in 1989, was one of the hardest lines in the world at the time and still has a fierce reputation featuring extremely hard moves on tiny pockets.

1990s

in 1990 Ben established Hubble at Raven Tor, at the time the first 8c+ in the world but now considered to be 9a.

Around 1995 he put considerable effort in to what would become Northern Lights at Kilnsey but despite an extended campaign couldn't get it done. This marked a bit of a turning point where he started to focus more on bouldering.

2000s

In 2005 he established Voyager an 8B boulder in the Peak DIstrict, then almost exactly a year later Ben succeeded in climbing the low start Voyager SDS to give the peak district one of it's hardest problems to date and an enduring testpiece that took 9 years before seeing a second ascent.

Ben continues to climb hard. In 2015 he climbed Rainshadow for his second 9a, 25 years after making the first ascent of Hubble.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593

[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0

[3] The Real Thing

[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609

[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] A Sport Climbing Pioneer: The Story Of Ben Moon, Interview with Matt Groom, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfyU4KHvioM

[11] Interview with Adrian Berry March 2005 https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044659/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=460

[12] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7b64enKBPgbOPR9gK7T4nZ?

[15] On The Edge Issue 84, page 40

[16] https://moonclimbing.com/News/post/trad-ethics-ben-moon

Contributors
216 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
TdG
149 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
6 contributions since 21st December 2024.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 13th June 1966
Age: 59 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a+
Hardest Sport (Flash): 8a
Notable Partnerships
Jerry Moffatt
Malcolm Smith
Contemporaries
Fred Nicole
Klem Loskot
Marc le Menestrel
Antoine Le Menestrel
Jean-Baptiste Tribout

Ben pushed the cutting edge of sport climbing in the 1980s and 1990s as well as establishing hard boulder problems in the early 2000s. He made many notable ascents in the UK including Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn, one of the earliest examples of a pure sport route in the UK (previously many routes were climbed in a sport style but relied on old aid gear. Ben equipped Statement with bolts specifically to free climb it).

1980s

Ben established or repeated many of the hardest sport routes in the world at the time, most notably in the UK and the France. Agincourt at Buoux, first climbed by Ben in 1989, was one of the hardest lines in the world at the time and still has a fierce reputation featuring extremely hard moves on tiny pockets.

1990s

in 1990 Ben established Hubble at Raven Tor, at the time the first 8c+ in the world but now considered to be 9a.

Around 1995 he put considerable effort in to what would become Northern Lights at Kilnsey but despite an extended campaign couldn't get it done. This marked a bit of a turning point where he started to focus more on bouldering.

2000s

In 2005 he established Voyager an 8B boulder in the Peak DIstrict, then almost exactly a year later Ben succeeded in climbing the low start Voyager SDS to give the peak district one of it's hardest problems to date and an enduring testpiece that took 9 years before seeing a second ascent.

Ben continues to climb hard. In 2015 he climbed Rainshadow for his second 9a, 25 years after making the first ascent of Hubble.

References

[1] Interview with Simon Lee, September 2013 https://vimeo.com/75374593

[2] Training in the cellar with Jerry Moffatt, 1989 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceV005nte0

[3] The Real Thing

[4] Stone Love, 2001 film by Ben Pritchard https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[5] 80's Birth of Extreme by Al Hughes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[6] Statement of Youth, 2019 Film by UKClimbing and Nick Brown https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco.

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/942618999137609

[8] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] A Sport Climbing Pioneer: The Story Of Ben Moon, Interview with Matt Groom, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfyU4KHvioM

[11] Interview with Adrian Berry March 2005 https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044659/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=460

[12] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7b64enKBPgbOPR9gK7T4nZ?

[15] On The Edge Issue 84, page 40

[16] https://moonclimbing.com/News/post/trad-ethics-ben-moon

Contributors
216 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
TdG
149 contributions since 22nd May 2025.
6 contributions since 21st December 2024.

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Ascents

81 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

The first 9a in the world.

While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job.

Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+.

He climbed the route again in 1992, a few days before Malcom Smith’s ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981

[3] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022

Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. He then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/ben-moon-british-rock-climbing-legend-interview.html

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/458296474236533

25 years after his first 9a, Hubble.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdKeEk6sSD0

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/06/ben_moon_on_rainshadow_9a_-_im_over_the_moon-69776

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 100, page 55
Liquid Ambar Second ascent. 5 sessions. 8c+ Lead | worked 1991
Sea of Tranquility First ascent. 8c+ Lead | worked 1993
Le Super Plafond 8c+ Lead | worked 1995

Done in 1995, within 2 days of climbing Le Super Plafond.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bqkgmd_AYsM/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/11/evolution_8c+_by_ben_moon-71782

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k @ 53mins

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/289577857775063

Ben returned in 1991 to run some laps on the route

An early ascent. Used in the media at the time to extol the benefits of bouldering for climbing stamina routes!
Make it Funky Third ascent. 8c Lead | worked 1993
Macumba Club 8c Lead | worked 1995

Red pointed Mecca Extension today, finally. 8c? maybe a soft one. Back to the main event on Thursday, Evolution.

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.

An early repeat. Over the space of 9 days Ben climbed the three hardest routes in France at the time: La Rage de Vivre, Le Minimum and Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant.
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Second ascent. 2 sessions. 8b+ Lead | worked Between 1st Sep 1988 and 1st Dec 1989
Eugenics 8b+ Lead | worked 2020
Fifth Dimension First ascent. 8b+ Lead | worked 20th Jun 2020
La Rose et le Vampire Third ascent. 8b Lead | worked 1986
Zeke the Freak First ascent. 8b Lead | worked 4th Aug 1987
Lockdown First ascent. 8b Lead | worked 3rd Jun 2020
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ Lead | worked 1985
Chouca Third ascent. 8a+ Lead | worked 1985

First re-ascent after the block had come off.

References

[1] Llanberis Slate. United Kingdom: Ground Up, 2011.

[2] Ed Douglas ‘Statement: The Ben Moon Story’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2015

[3] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 15
Masterclass Third ascent. 8a Lead | worked 1984

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[2] https://moonclimbing.com/News/post/trad-ethics-ben-moon
Hot Fun Closing First ascent. 8a Lead | worked 1986

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 15

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 14 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141
The Untouchables 8a Lead | worked 1991

References

[1] Mountain 138 (1991), page 18 /library/11319/mountain-138

References

[1] Mountain 138 (1991), page 18 /library/11319/mountain-138

At the time one of the hardest flashes on peak district limestone.

Ben's first english 6a, just two years later he'd make the first ascent of Statement of Youth!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWxoLMvIUCZ/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Superman SDS First ascent. 8B+ Boulder | worked 1994

Ben did all the moves but wasn't able to link it on a top rope.

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp5iLBp601g
Monk Life 8B+ Boulder | did not finish

Before Malcolm Smith made the first ascent Ben came close to doing it, falling off near the end.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1899

References

[1] https://youtu.be/uaWvY1jMT6A?si=BXFKo-KQR0MCY6gC

Ben used a pogo foot kick technique, which also became known as a Moon Kick after Ben’s ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2002/03/slipstones_project_completed-3016

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C37y0IGoDq6/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35565873

References

[1] Confirmed Ben made the second ascent via email correspondence, 30th November 2023.
Voyager First ascent. 8B Boulder | worked 16th Nov 2005

'I spent six hours on the one move, before finally realising it and yet I am still unaware of what I had done differently to all my previous attempts. Six hours over three days over three weeks. What really happened during this period?'(2)

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 99, page 73

[2] Ed Douglas, ‘Statement: The Ben Moon Story’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2015

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1057

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO71X2Zr3is

Immortalised in The Real Thing, 1996 (@46:30)

References

[1] https://youtu.be/brbxoKEgsw0?t=2789

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZH5SvrIe6H/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3qPcrdIOMD/

[2] On The Edge Issue 103, page 10

References

[1] https://youtu.be/hIX4qErutvw?t=2468

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGPm5hMpO-Q
Snot
Indoor First ascent. 		8A+ Boulder | worked

References

[1] On The Edge issue 114, page 44

[2] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=2181

One fall from the easy lower section.
Stick It 8A Boulder | worked Nov 1993

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9
Underworld First ascent. 8A Boulder | worked 2000-2001

References

[1] https://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/bolfa/February-2006.pdf

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnjquBmQZJY
Ranieri's Reach First ascent. 8A Boulder | worked 2004

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 21
Mushin' First ascent. 7C+ Boulder | worked 1990s
I am Curious (Yellow) First ascent. 7C+ Boulder | worked 1990s
After Midnight 7C+ Top Rope | flash Nov 1993
Thriller 7C+ Boulder | flash Nov 1993

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BRVFCw0gV67/

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=173

Thinking it to be a new problem, climbed via a long move from the crack to a pocket.

The Force 7C Boulder | flash Nov 1993

With the toe on the rail method. [1]

It's hard, but not that hard. [1][2]

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

[2] On The Edge Issue 67, page 10
Ben's Roof First ascent. 7C Boulder | worked

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DQzMUqIiIvJ/
Midnight Lightning Second go. 7B Boulder | worked Nov 1993
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Equilibrium E10 Top Rope | worked 1993
Strawberries E7 Lead | yo-yo 1984
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Ben got close but never quite managed to finish it off. [1]

References

[1] Confirmed via email with Ben

[2] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1728
Snot First ascent. 8A+ Boulder | worked