Meshuga | E9 Trad climb at Black Rocks

United Kingdom / England / Derbyshire / Matlock
UKClimbing.com
Translation: Insane.

The prow at Black Rocks is one of the most impressive and uncompromising features on gritstone and for decades was regarded as a Last Great Problem. Attention in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s focused on the prow’s left arête, with climbing said to be around 8b.

Whilst top-roping Seb Grieve on the line, Quentin Fisher suggested trying to link to a line of better holds on the right arête. With a bit of beta refinement from Dave Jones, the line of Meshuga was unlocked and Seb made his ascent in 1997. It was perhaps the boldest route on gritstone at the time, comprising unpredictable 7c climbing, a long way above a terrible landing. [1]

Despite its boldness, it has become one of the most repeated E9s.

The left arête remains unclimbed.

The name comes from the Yiddish word for Insane.

References

[1] ‘Peak Rock’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013.

Contributors
remus
73 contributions since 3rd January 2021.
TdG
24 contributions since 22nd May 2025.

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

20 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

You cheeky little thing, I'll have you yet... [1]

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

[2] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PawVn_-Cgiw

Prior to making the second ascent Neil took a nasty ground fall and banged his head resulting in severe vertigo.

On my first attempt to repeat it in 1999, I fell from the crux and knocked myself unconscious. This left me with vertigo symptoms and put me out of climbing for the subsequent year, but strangely, during this time I became increasingly fixated on a rematch. Meantime, the route’s reputation had only increased and it remained unrepeated during my period of convalescence. [3]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Co_4j5SNocT/

[2] On The Edge Issue 97, page 28

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DHgXTRutcDi/

References

[1] On The Edge, issue 114

References

[1] On The Edge, issue 114

Neil's belayer, after Neil had fallen off and hit the deck:

He's going to have a fucking sore arse, I'll tell ya that. [1]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7BJa4z2YVI

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/meshuga.4831/

Light rain, standard english fare...

Same day as Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) with a direct start. Aged 15.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/10589082

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/04/ben_heason_repeats_meshuga_-_e9_6c-52764
Nathan Lee Lead | worked 24th Oct 2013

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDXq2gNqN7k
Ethan Walker Lead | worked 14th Nov 2013

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/meshuga.4831/

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/meshuga.4831/

Date is a guess based on when the video was published on youtube.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdlxZwiFftk

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/10/meshuga_e9_6c_by_jim_pope-71756
Patrick Hill Lead | worked 4th Feb 2020
Nic Duboust Lead | worked 7th Feb 2020

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCPnp30tTzz/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DPbcVeLDO59/
Neil Furniss Lead | worked
Sam Hamer Lead | worked