Climbs

Sirevåg, Norway

Originally given 8c/+ repeat ascenionists then suggested 8c+. Around 2018/2019 some holds broke on the crux and it is now considered more 9a.

Ed Drummond climbed the first pitch at a slightly lower level than the current line, top-roping it first, placing a bolt, pitons and using skyhooks (a total of 5 points of aid) on the 8th July 1973. This was omitted from the 1976 guide on ethical grounds although other routes of the time had employed similar amounts of aid.

5.11c

First climbed in 1959 by Warren Harding, Glen Denny and Chuck Pratt as the East Face of Washington Column. Although this ascent was mainly aided, the Harding Slot - free climbed at a notional 5.9 - is still a considerable challenge for many despite its relatively low grade.

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105845493/astroman

A historic gritstone king line, which was solved well ahead of its time by Jonny Woodward in 1982, in non-sticky boots.

The route relies on a crucial pebble to leave the half height break and enter the seam above. In the early 2000s half the pebble shattered and fell off, making the crux harder but still possible.

John Allen:

It seemed to me that it's ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire. A classic natural sculpture made to be climbed, but only by the best. [1]

References

[1] Extreme Rock (1987) Rear Cover /library/collection/1/extreme-rock

The board climb, set as a replica/trainer for lucid dreaming on the 2016 Moon Board

References

[1] Alpine Journal 1960 page 182-185 by Chris Bonnington https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1960_files/AJ%201960%20182-185%20Bonington%20Tre%20Cime.pdf

Originally climbed by pinching the right hand starting hold and making a powerful move to the first crimp and given 8B with this sequence. Subsequently the beta has improved and now involves guppying the starting right hand hold and using a left heel to make the first move static.

A pioneering route up Trango's Nameless Tower, encompassing hard free and mixed climbing at 6000m.

The route was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, graded VI, 7b+, A2.

The whole route was freed by the Huber brothers in 2009, during an unprecedented spell of good weather, at 7c+.

Alexander Huber:

"There's no doubt we were extremely lucky. To be successful, so many different things have to fall into place. The weather was great which meant we could climb perfectly, up the cracks which were free of ice. I take my hat off to the achievement and free climbing instinct of the first ascenders. This route is a true enrichment for mountaineering. With "Eternal Flame" Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora have passed on the best and most beautiful free climb on the globe. We are thrilled that we could play a little part in developing this route!"