Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Marathon Sport route 8b 10

First 8b in Norway Oslo - Norway
Menage a Trois Boulder problem 8B+ 10
Messiah Trad climb E7 10
Mirta Boulder problem 8B+ 10
Mona Lisa Boulder problem 8B+ 10
Moon Shadow Boulder problem 8B 10
My Piano Trad climb E8 10
Necessary Evil Sport route 8c+ 10

The first 8c+ in America established by an American, the soon to be famous Chris Sharma. Jim Thornburg writing in Climbing magazine #168:

Speed worked on the sick-looking direct start and reckoned that an ascent of the entire route would be like climbing two 5.14a's back-to-back. After a finger injury put Speed out of commission, it seemed likely that the route would gather cobwebs until some visiting Euro arrived to snake yet another American testpiece. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/
Neon Desert Boulder problem 8B+ 10
Once Upon a Time in the Southwest Trad climb E9 10

Johnny Dawes likely abseiled the line in 1989. Nick White writing in Mountain 129:

Dyers Lookout presented me with the heart stopping sight of someone abbing the most futuristic piece of rock on the North coast. Inevitably it turned out to be Johnny Dawes, who pronounced the line would be E9 7a and "that it would make someone very happy sometime in the future." [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 10 /library/11314/mountain-129
Requiem Trad climb E8 10

Traditionally protected ~8a climbing making it a contender for the first 8a in the UK.
Reticent Wall Aid Climb A4+ 10
Salathé Wall Aid Climb A2 10

Named after Yosemite climbing pioneer John Salathé. After fixing to the Heart Ledges, the remainder of the route was climbed on-sight. This was a notable improvement in style over the multi-season siege of The Nose (A2)

Spaceship Boulder problem 8B+ 10
Takaki Mikura SD Boulder problem 8B+ 10

A Mizugaki testpiece on the historic Kotei Iwa boulder.
The Buttermilker Boulder problem 8A+ 10

Chris Sharma's original line, and world famous testpiece. Start sitting on the right facing fin, then wrestle your way up and right through the sick, sloping features.

References

[1] https://kaya-app.kayaclimb.com/climb/The-Buttermilker-v13-Bishop-108457

[2] https://27crags.com/crags/buttermilks/routes/buttermilker
The Phoenix Trad climb E7 10
The Quintessential Boulder problem 8B 10
The Revolution is Coming Boulder problem 8A 10
Trieste Low Boulder problem 8B+ 10

First ascentionist Daniel Woods:

The original Trieste starts on a left hand crimp pinch and right hand crimp then ascends the wall. I started on the obvious ledge as a sit-start and climbed into Paul's stand. This adds in a difficult first and second move, spicing things up for the finish. sick line with perfect movement. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/first-creek/sectors/trieste-area/routes/trieste-sit-start/

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