Climbs

A very long boulder problem. Around 8c+ to 9a as a sport route depending on how many knee bars you find.

Chrish Doyle:

Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing. In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA. The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles. In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a.

Originally led but now typically done above a big pile of mats at about 7C+. On the first ascent Jerry Moffatt took a fairly direct line at the top, whereas people typically traverse round to the right before topping out when climbing the line above pads.

Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above.

Around the time he made the second ascent Sonnie Trotter also added a variation called Direquiem which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

References

[1] E11 2006 film by Paul Diffley

Initially given 8B.

Originally climbed as a trad route at ~E7.

Very morpho. 8B if you are tall enough to span the first move, otherwise you have to dyno which is worth 8B+.

A left hand finish to Pegasus.