Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
One Chromosome's Missing Trad climb E7 8
Orbayu Sport route 8c 8
Pilgrimage Boulder problem 8B+ 8

A very long boulder problem. Around 8c+ to 9a as a sport route depending on how many knee bars you find.

Chrish Doyle:

Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing. In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA. The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles. In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a.
Primitivo Boulder problem 8C 8
Raining Bats and Dogs Sport route 8c 8
Rayu Sport route 8c 8

Eneko Pou:

The first part consists of seven pitches (about 300 m) with difficulties that do not exceed 7b, but many of them either do not have bolts, or only have one or two, meaning that you’re tested physically and psychologically since, in many places, falls are potentially very dangerous.

Iker Pou:

The second part consists of another seven more difficult pitches, very vertical and without rests, past continuous difficulties that peak with an 8c. As in the first section, bolts are runout and the pro needs backing up with trad gear. This was by far the crux. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-picos-de-europa-8c-multi-pitch-by-pou-brothers-kico-cerda.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxgwD_SnzCY
Rhapsody Trad climb E11 8

Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls.

The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up the headwall above.

Around the time he made the second ascent Sonnie Trotter also added a variation called Direquiem which takes the headwall but finishes left rather than going to the highest point of the crag.

References

[1] E11 2006 film by Paul Diffley
Sanction Boulder problem 8B 8
San Simian Trad climb E8 8
Selecció Natural Sport route 9a 8
Serenity Boulder problem 8B 8
Sinawav Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Stoking the Fire Sport route 9b 8
The 1938 Route Alpine ED2 8
The Automator Boulder problem 8B 8
The Fly Sport route 9a 8

A very short route or a highball boulder with a bit of a funky landing. When climbed as a route both the bolts on the route are usually pre-clipped.

References

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fly_(climb)
The Hourglass Boulder problem 8B 8
The Phoenix Trad climb E7 8
The Power of Goodbye Boulder problem 8B 8
The Quintessential Boulder problem 8B 8

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