Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Keen Roof - Nachos Start Boulder problem 8B 8

From the start of Ben's Roof climb direct into Keen Roof, do not go to the kneebar.
Kenny Loggins Boulder problem 8B+ 8
La Moustache Qui Fâche Sport route 9a+ 8
La Planta de Shiva Sport route 9b 8
La Proue Boulder problem 8B 8
Liquid Ambar Sport route 8c+ 8

Originally given 8c but upgraded following repeats.
Little Women Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Lord of the Flies Trad climb E6 8
Maginot Line Sport route 8c 8
Magnetic Fields Sport route 8b 8
Merlin's Beard Boulder problem 8B 8
Messiah Trad climb E7 8
Mirta Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Moon Shadow Boulder problem 8B 8
Necessary Evil Sport route 8c+ 8

A direct start to Route of All Evil bolted in 1991 by Boone Speed, and the first 8c+ in America established by an American, the soon to be famous Chris Sharma.

Jim Thornburg writing in Climbing magazine #168:

Speed worked on the sick-looking direct start and reckoned that an ascent of the entire route would be like climbing two 5.14a's back-to-back. After a finger injury put Speed out of commission, it seemed likely that the route would gather cobwebs until some visiting Euro arrived to snake yet another American testpiece. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CkRY8NJSro2/
Ninja Skills Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Northern Lights Sport route 9a 8

Bolted by Ben Moon in 1993 and then tried extensively. Despite coming close around 1995 was unable to finish the route due to a combination of poor conditions and injury.

Steve McClure's successful ascent in July 2000 represented a passing of the torch, with him taking on the mantle as the UK's pre-eminent sport climber by finishing off Ben's old project.
Obsession Fatale Trad climb E8 8
Oliphant's Dawn Boulder problem 8B+ 8
One Chromosome's Missing Trad climb E7 8

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