Climbs / Index

All climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,309 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,184 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Los Humildes pa Casa Sport route 8b+ 8
Lucky Boulder problem 8B 8
Magic Line Trad climb E10 8

8c/+ on trad gear. The breakdown is roughly an 8A boulder in to 8b route in to 7C boulder. Footholds, some glue-reinforced, have broken since the first ascent.

References

[1] https://www.hazel-findlay.com/blog/reflecting-on-magic-line

[2] https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/stories/q-a-babsi-and-jacopo-send-magic-line

Maginot Line Sport route 8c 8
Meikyoshisui Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Merlin's Beard Boulder problem 8B 8
Ninjutsu Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Ninth Life Trad climb E7 8

Named after Jerry Moffatt who decked from the upper reaches of the route on a previous attempt at the FA. Miraculously he survived relatively unscathed, using up one of his nine lives. Having completed all the hard, dangerous climbing and found a good runner he was stumped by the dirty top section so decided to lower off the runner. The runner failed and he landed flat on his back and was knocked unconscious, but miraculously awoke unscathed.

Alan Carne recalls

I thought he was dead. He landed flat on his back and was completely unconscious, immobile and I just looked at him and thought 'oh, my god, he's dead'.

Nordic Flower L1 Sport route 8b+ 8
Northern Lights Sport route 9a 8

Tried extensively by Ben Moon. Despite coming close around 1995 was unable to finish the route due to a combination of poor conditions and injury. Steve McClure's successful ascent in July 2000 represented a passing of the torch, with him taking on the mantle as the UK's pre-eminent sport climber by finishing off Ben's old project.

Orbayu Sport route 8c 8
Overnite Sensation Sport route 8a+ 8
Peace Sport route 8b 8
Pilgrimage Boulder problem 8B+ 8

A very long boulder problem. Around 8c+ to 9a as a sport route depending on how many knee bars you find.

Chris Doyle:

Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing. In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA. The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles. In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a.

References

[1] https://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2013/03/pilgrimage-2nd-ascent.html

Poppy Sport route 8b+ 8
preMuir Trad climb E8 8

Free version of the Muir Wall with some variations in line.

Propellen Boulder problem 8B 8
Raining Bats and Dogs Sport route 8c 8
Rayu Sport route 8c 8

Eneko Pou:

The first part consists of seven pitches (about 300 m) with difficulties that do not exceed 7b, but many of them either do not have bolts, or only have one or two, meaning that you’re tested physically and psychologically since, in many places, falls are potentially very dangerous.

Iker Pou:

The second part consists of another seven more difficult pitches, very vertical and without rests, past continuous difficulties that peak with an 8c. As in the first section, bolts are runout and the pro needs backing up with trad gear. This was by far the crux. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-picos-de-europa-8c-multi-pitch-by-pou-brothers-kico-cerda.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxgwD_SnzCY

Renegade Master Trad climb E8 8

Originally led but now typically done above a big pile of mats at about 7C+. On the first ascent Jerry Moffatt took a fairly direct line at the top, whereas people typically traverse round to the right before topping out when climbing the line above pads.

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