Aid Climbs

Named after Yosemite climbing pioneer John Salathé. After fixing to the Heart Ledges, the remainder of the route was climbed on-sight. This was a notable improvement in style over the multi-season siege of The Nose (A2)

Named after the H P Lovecraft short story.

During an attempt at making the first ascent Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff and Jim Pettigrew were forced down due to a lack of appropriately sized hexes to protect some of the pitches.

To save the hassle of retreating with a haul bag they decided to ditch the bag with a make-shift parachute attached. Unfortunately the parachute was entirely ineffective and the haulbag exploed on impact.

References

[1] Erik Sloan. Yosemite Bigwalls Select: The Ultimate Guide. N.p.: Yosemite Bigwalls, 2021.

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lurking_Fear

Mixed aid and free (5.9) on the first ascent

Some pitches are used by Freerider.

The third route to be climbed on the main face of El Capitan and the first from non-locals. A siege ascent requiring 42 days of climbing over eight months with fixed ropes almost the entire length of the route.

Ed Cooper:

There was on El Capitan one line left, the direct south west face, logically left unclimbed to the last.

References

[1] Steve Roper ed. (2002). Ordeal by Piton. USA: Stanford University Library p111-117

Rusty Reno:

According to legend, I took a 200 foot fall on pitch 6. The legend is true. Let's just say that Steve Grossman is and always has been a better face climber than me when far above his last piece! [1]

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/120858759/jolly-roger

Originally called End All. 85 holes drilled on the first ascent, a much smaller number than on the nearby Wall of Early Morning Light (A3) climbed three years previously. Now a popular classic route.

Some lower pitches are free climbed by The Dawn Wall.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197414804

The first route to breach the south east face of El Capitan by the all-star team of Robbins, Pratt, Frost and Chouinard. After several exploratory attempts by Robbins with Glen Denny and Frost the ascent was accomplished in one push with no fixed ropes. This was the first time a route had been established in this style on El Capitan and in marked contrast to the extensive fixed ropes employed on the multi-month ascents of The Nose and Dihedral Wall. It was graded A5 and regarded as probably the hardest in the world of its genre at the time of ascent.

Royal Robbins:

We all felt similarly about the climb — it was not an appealing wall. It did not have the elegance or majesty of the southwest face. The treacherous dark rock, the difficulty of retreat due to great overhangs and long traverses, the absence of a natural route, and finally the apparent necessity for many bolts rendered us not happily enthusiastic about the venture. A large part of our individual selves did not want to attempt this face. But another part was lured on by the challenge of the greatest unclimbed rock wall in North America.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196533100/The-North-America-Wall

Link-up of Freeblast (Salathe) + Muir Wall + 3 linking pitches + The Nose from Camp 4 to the summit.

References

[1] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)

6th big wall route on El Capitan and the first to be established in one push from the ground by a 2 man team. Named after John Muir, Scottish-American naturalist, environmental activist and co-founder of the Sierra Club.

Two free versions, preMuir and The Shaft, both have some variations from the original aid line.

First clean ascent: Steve Grossman (1990)

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196604600/Muir-WallEl-Capitan

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Muir

[3] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105924815/muir-wall

[4] https://youtu.be/cP8GMVoEpsA?list=PLZB6HztufAjtfvzgy40kroAym6lxKeP0s

References

[1] Topo /file/6ca534b0-9176-5abd-6b74-849551e584c1/NightmareOnCA2.pdf, originally from http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/NightmareOnCA2.pdf

[2] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/885684/nightmare-on-california-street

East wall of Great Trango