Gaia | E8 Trad climb at Black Rocks

United Kingdom / England / Derbyshire / Matlock

See also Harder Faster.

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

Contributors
remus
143 contributions since 28th December 2020.
TdG
23 contributions since 11th August 2025.

Library


Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

27 successful ascents and 3 unsuccessful attempts recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

An impressive effort after minimal top rope practice.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 19 /library/11131/mountain-109

Seb Grieve Second ascent. Lead | worked 5th Mar 1989

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 63, page 6 /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

References

[1] On The Edge 63, page 10 /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

The iconic opening scene from Hard Grit.

I was conscious of the risk and for sure I was very lucky. I would say now that I will never do this route, it's over in my head. [3]

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

[2] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9

[3] On The Edge Issue 73, page 30

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 11

Dan took a monster with both hands on the final sloper

References

[1] High Mountain Issue 253, page 12

Lisa Rands First female ascent. Lead | worked 2004

Lee Cossey:

What seemed important about soloing Gaia, given that no one had done it before?

Ben Cossey:

Oh just because it was a route from way back. A Johnny Dawes route, from Stone Monkey, and just because...tying a little bow around it. It was unique for me, for my experience. [1]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Eu8kTmfv9mI?t=1039

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/04/another_unconventional_ascent_for_ben_cossey-36306

Dan Bradley Lead | worked 19th Dec 2007

Not a true onsight since I've seen movies, but there was no chalk. Good times one way or another.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYbRNt4GjXE

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-honnold-flashes-gaia-e8-6c.html

Nathan Lee Lead | worked 27th Oct 2012
Cailean Harker Lead | worked 17th Jan 2013
Dave Mason Lead | flash Nov 2013
Issac Buckley Lead | worked 15th Apr 2023
Niall Grimes Lead | worked